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Creaking sound from left front suspension
- Thread starter timk225
- Start date
andrewxc
Member
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“To summarize: it is a well-known fact that those people who must want to rule people are, ipso facto, those least suited to do it.
“To summarize the summary: anyone who is capable of getting themselves [elected to high political office] should on no account be allowed to do the job.”
Perhaps it is not tightly related to miles or roads. Going in Tuesday at 22k miles. 2018 early August delivery. Started a few weeks ago, perhaps corrosion or lube related.
android04
Active Member
This video talks a little about the upper control arm revisions and how to do a quick fix for the grease migrating out of the ball joint.
This video shows how you can grease your own ball joint if you wanted to do this out of warranty.
This video shows how to replace your own upper control arm if out of warranty.
This video shows how you can grease your own ball joint if you wanted to do this out of warranty.
This video shows how to replace your own upper control arm if out of warranty.
Like others, I just got both upper control arms replaced on my 2018 Model 3 RWD after one side started making loud creaking noises at 35k miles. It was covered by warranty.
Got the H-revision parts on both sides:
Left: 1044321-00-H
Right: 1044326-00-H
I also got a free 4-wheel alignment out of it, which I was meaning to do anyways, so the whole thing actually saved me some $ in the end.
Got the H-revision parts on both sides:
Left: 1044321-00-H
Right: 1044326-00-H
I also got a free 4-wheel alignment out of it, which I was meaning to do anyways, so the whole thing actually saved me some $ in the end.
Has anyone succesfully gotten them replaced with the occasional loud creak?
I very rarely get a sound that sounds like a loose bolt or nut -- i.e if i'm backing down a driveway and there is an angle and twist i'll hear some kind of pop sound.. but driving anywheres else, cornering (even very hard), etc never hear anything. It only tends to happen after the car sat for a while, once the suspension has moved a bit it never happens again until it sits.
I'm debating opening a support request for the sound, but it's very very hard to reproduce.. (as well as addressing the known issue of pressure/popping sounds when charging in cold weather).
I very rarely get a sound that sounds like a loose bolt or nut -- i.e if i'm backing down a driveway and there is an angle and twist i'll hear some kind of pop sound.. but driving anywheres else, cornering (even very hard), etc never hear anything. It only tends to happen after the car sat for a while, once the suspension has moved a bit it never happens again until it sits.
I'm debating opening a support request for the sound, but it's very very hard to reproduce.. (as well as addressing the known issue of pressure/popping sounds when charging in cold weather).
andrewxc
Member
Good news! The creak going away got me out of paying anything.
The techs checked tires, etc for free, and the UCA they said nothing looked wrong. Sent me on my way.
The techs checked tires, etc for free, and the UCA they said nothing looked wrong. Sent me on my way.
android04
Active Member
If you get the noise again make sure to record it with your phone as proof and to help with troubleshooting.
Is there any danger to driving with the issue? I can’t get into the SC until 6/10/21. My sound is identical to this. Low speeds and turning and bumps seem to enhance the sound.
android04
Active Member
I'd say there's no danger. It's just annoying and embarrassing. I drove mine for a month (over 1000) miles after this happened to me because I wanted to schedule service on a specific day.
After several happy months of absolute quiet with with our 2019 3LR, now have a creaking under. Am convinced it is coming from the mounting blocks of the sway-bars (anti-roll) which have dried out in the warmer, less humid conditions of our spring. They are well buried, not exposed like lesser vehicles', but may get some quietening(?) water-damping the next time we drive in the rain. Will access and dry lube them when able, and report back. Cheers.
The swaybars are bonded to those bushings, so I think that would be very unlikely. The most likely reason would be the front upper control arm balljoints have dried up and have no lubricant left in them! This is a very common issue.
After several happy months of absolute quiet with with our 2019 3LR, now have a creaking under. Am convinced it is coming from the mounting blocks of the sway-bars (anti-roll) which have dried out in the warmer, less humid conditions of our spring. They are well buried, not exposed like lesser vehicles', but may get some quietening(?) water-damping the next time we drive in the rain. Will access and dry lube them when able, and report back. Cheers.
...bonded to those bushings.(?) Are you sure? Goodness, that would be a first. The noise seems to be communicated through the chassis, a 'heavy' sound. Blocks are available which include a bonded teflon sleeve; is this what you have in mind?
The bar does not rotate within the bushings, instead, the bushings twist. Aftermarket bars for this car use your usually polyurethane bushings which the bar rotates in. An easy way to check would be to peel back the FUCA balljoint rubber boot and spray some lubricant in it. If the noise goes away, there is your smoking gun.
Location of squeak at outside of upper control arm indicates lack of lubrication in ball joint, a common topic. With the frunk liner out lift the rubber closer to reveal the top of the upper control arm. There appears to be a grub-screw closing what I assume to be a SAE grease-nipple thread mounting atop the ball joint. If that is so, is it possible to safely fit a 90* grease nipple facing outwards? Is suspension movement a consideration?
Further to above have just found a post that states the apparent grub-screw is a plastic sealing filler. Ho hum! Back to sleep...
android04
Active Member
That plastic on top of the ball joint is just a cap, but you can tap and thread a grease zerk on it (I did). You don't even need a 90 degree one, there's plenty of clearance for a straight one. But it's tricky to pump grease in them without blowing out the zerks. See Time to replace upper-control arm ball joints
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