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Creaking/Squeaking control arm ball joint fix

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Squeak started a few weeks ago on a 17 MX with 80K miles. Would hear it from front drivers side at low speeds on uneven ground, turning and when suspension changed hights. Followed advice from OP and sure enough ball joint in upper control arm was seized. Broke it free and moved around for a few minutes. Put everything back together and happy to report squeaking is gone. Took me about 1 hour. Thanks for saving me a trip to SC and $$$
That's great to hear. Possible to post a short video on how to do it or some photos of the exact location? Many thanks
 
80k miles and it's probably time for new control arms.
Guessing I'll be fitted w/ new ones this week.

Tried injecting grease and while it quieted things, the creaking doesn't go away completely. Just about 101K on the old gal (only about 10K on my battery and front drive motor though!). Won't be surprised if the link ends need to get done as well.
 
Guessing I'll be fitted w/ new ones this week.

Tried injecting grease and while it quieted things, the creaking doesn't go away completely. Just about 101K on the old gal (only about 10K on my battery and front drive motor though!). Won't be surprised if the link ends need to get done as well.

100k is a good run. Bushings usually start showing their age around 50k+. There might be some non-performance aftermarket options available now, at least for control arms. I'd need to look though.
 
That's great to hear. Possible to post a short video on how to do it or some photos of the exact location? Many thanks
Unfouretnly didn't video and only took 1 pic. It's a single bolt that the OP shows in photo. Once removed I used a rubber hammer and WD40 to get the shaft to drop. Ratchet strap to pull upper and lower assembly close for aligning shaft. Once back together reinserted and tightened bolt.

17MX UCA.JPG
 
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Unfouretnly didn't video and only took 1 pic. It's a single bolt that the OP shows in photo. Once removed I used a rubber hammer and WD40 to get the shaft to drop. Ratchet strap to pull upper and lower assembly close for aligning shaft. Once back together reinserted and tightened bolt.

View attachment 827441

The pinch bolt is a one time use stretch bolt, at least according to Tesla.

FSM is available for anybody, for free here:
 
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100k is a good run. Bushings usually start showing their age around 50k+. There might be some non-performance aftermarket options available now, at least for control arms. I'd need to look though.

I did some looking, and didn't see upper control arms available anywhere aftermarket for the Model X. Lowers are available, but not the uppers.

I'll be opening my wallet to the SC tomorrow. 🤣
 
I did some looking, and didn't see upper control arms available anywhere aftermarket for the Model X. Lowers are available, but not the uppers.

I'll be opening my wallet to the SC tomorrow. 🤣

Ended up being lower control arms for me, and NOT the uppers as I had thought. $900 to the SC and they were done quickly once they got the parts in from another local SC.

The tech that did the work and test ride w/ me to start identifying the issue said that when the uppers start to go, they typically will clunk when you turn the wheel at very low speeds or while stopped, so that may be of use to some of you, but I wouldn't treat it as a one-size-fits-all scenarios either.

Now that I've injected my uppers w/ grease a few times, I'm looking at decent ways to seal those small punctures from my grease needle. Might explore finding a replacement boot if I can't get something to seal them reasonably well. Still, they have 101k on them, so it's a matter of "when" not "if" they need replacing.
 
I had the same issue, creaking upper control arm ball joints, 2017 Model X 75D with about 62,000 miles. Sure enough, the ball joints felt like there was no grease or lubrication in them.
I figured it can't hurt to do the following:
I purchased a needle valve and some good quality grease for my grease gun. Very easy, I carefully pierced the needle into the rubber ball joint and injected grease all around until the rubber ball joint felt full and plump. Don't overfill though.
Then I purchased some self-fusing waterproof tape from Home Depot:
Wrap the tape according to directions on package.
Note that it will take several miles after grease injection for the ball and new grease to work it's way around in the joint so you may hear some creaking for a short time.
I'm happy to report 5k miles later, creaking is still resolved.
 
I had the same issue, creaking upper control arm ball joints, 2017 Model X 75D with about 62,000 miles. Sure enough, the ball joints felt like there was no grease or lubrication in them.
I figured it can't hurt to do the following:
I purchased a needle valve and some good quality grease for my grease gun. Very easy, I carefully pierced the needle into the rubber ball joint and injected grease all around until the rubber ball joint felt full and plump. Don't overfill though.
Then I purchased some self-fusing waterproof tape from Home Depot:
Wrap the tape according to directions on package.
Note that it will take several miles after grease injection for the ball and new grease to work it's way around in the joint so you may hear some creaking for a short time.
I'm happy to report 5k miles later, creaking is still resolved.
Would have been great if you could do a short video on it.
 
I just got both control arms replaced out of warranty the other week due to the squeaking noise and was only charged $180 total ($90 for each control arm). They said they don't charge for labor for these replacements anymore. Was in and out in a day.
 
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I just got both control arms replaced out of warranty the other week due to the squeaking noise and was only charged $180 total ($90 for each control arm). They said they don't charge for labor for these replacements anymore. Was in and out in a day.
As a reference- My X is doing the same thing, and I asked at the SC today what the cost is. They knew right off the top of their head- "we don't charge labor for that anymore, parts are $90 a side". This was Lynnwood, WA. So this looks like a broad policy.