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Cybertruck as mobile powerwall

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it is not so much arbitraging the rates as perhaps "time shifting" using a mobile power wall, "C'truk"
It gets mighty irksome making ~140% of my needs and sending excess electrons to the grid then buying them back at night at ~4x the cost.
We don't have VPP's around here yet
yeah thats what I’m saying and you can check it out in solar discussions in the energy section of,this site.
 
Are there folks considering using the cybertruck as a stationary/mobile set of powerwalls?
My initial thoughts were the 75 kW is actually ~5 powerwalls plus a basic truck that I could combine with my 11,655 PV array.
Legally I cannot disconnect from the grid, but hurricane Irma caused >5 days no electric.
My minimum electric bill is $21.69
If I buy electricity at night it’s 8.9cents per kWh
If I sell the same electricity it’s 2.585cents per kWh
I make ~190% of my needs
I also see the CT as a potential node in a Virtual Power Plant with my PV
I'm coming to the thread late.... ha! you can't legally disconnect from the grid? Two examples.... I heard about a huge solar install where they installed 80kw of panels and simply threw the breaker from the meterbase. Took about 3 months for the power company to come investigate why their meter usage dropped so dramatically. The 2nd example is a person friend of mine who lives semi-off grid. He installed his own 12kw inverter system and 9kw of panels and flipped the breaker one day. The power company has never come to check at all. I guess it could be argued that you have to have a connection, but you certainly don't have to use it. And of course one could argue that a house built must have grid access, but I can't understand compelling anyone to have to pay for a service they don't need or want.
 
The service provider provides service with the understanding that they’ll be the primary. They don’t want to invest considerable infrastructure cost only to find you have them only as backup. If you want their service, understandable they’ll insist you shut off on-site solar/well/septic/etc. (“Understandable” doesn’t mean it works in your favor.)
 
Old thread, But I will be somewhat suprised if CT doesn't have V2H and that powerwalls are not already designed to provide the inverter for the battery output. I expect more than just an onboard 240V inverter similar to the Lightning.

The argument against V2H is battery chemistry is insufficient for the increased cycles.
 
Old thread, But I will be somewhat suprised if CT doesn't have V2H and that powerwalls are not already designed to provide the inverter for the battery output. I expect more than just an onboard 240V inverter similar to the Lightning.

The argument against V2H is battery chemistry is insufficient for the increased cycles.
I didn't see anything in the bed on the latest photos that screamed NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 plug. I'm wondering if they may sell some adapter that you can plug into the charge port that has power outlets on it? Other manufacturers have done that. Of course newest stationary home chargers may have V2H/V2G built in also.
 
I didn't see anything in the bed on the latest photos that screamed NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 plug. I'm wondering if they may sell some adapter that you can plug into the charge port that has power outlets on it? Other manufacturers have done that. Of course newest stationary home chargers may have V2H/V2G built in also.
V2H and V2G when done right, wouldn't use the onboard chargers. They aren't big enough to run most homes.

Things like the F-150 aren't really V2H, they are more like V2 a few devices.
 
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V2H and V2G when done right, wouldn't use the onboard chargers. They aren't big enough to run most homes.

Things like the F-150 aren't really V2H, they are more like V2 a few devices.
F-150 with the V2H upgrades can do 7200Watts. That's a pretty decent load but I get what you're saying. I still would like to have the option to run V2 "a few devices" meaning a 14-30amp or better yet a 14-50amp. I already have an interlock where I can backfeed my panel with my generator and using my car on the rare occasion we lose power instead of the noisy generator would be awesome
 
F-150 with the V2H upgrades can do 7200Watts. That's a pretty decent load but I get what you're saying. I still would like to have the option to run V2 "a few devices" meaning a 14-30amp or better yet a 14-50amp. I already have an interlock where I can backfeed my panel with my generator and using my car on the rare occasion we lose power instead of the noisy generator would be awesome

7.2 kw is about the peak output of one powerwall. You can't even start most central HVAC units with that.
 
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7.2 kw is about the peak output of one powerwall. You can't even start most central HVAC units with that.
Look into soft start modules for central HVAC systems. Also, if you have mini splits those are a game changer. Having said that, I'm talking emergency situations here... Like grid down and we want to keep the fridge, freezer, some lights and fans working. I wouldn't be trying to run the AC because I understand loads pretty well. Heat might be fine (since I'm natural gas heat and it's just the blower) but I prob wouldn't even do that unless I was monitoring pretty closely.

This isn't rocket science but I do realize some people (maybe even most) don't know this stuff.
 
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Look into soft start modules for central HVAC systems. Also, if you have mini splits those are a game changer. Having said that, I'm talking emergency situations here... Like grid down and we want to keep the fridge, freezer, some lights and fans working. I wouldn't be trying to run the AC. Heat might be fine (since I'm natural gas heat and it's just the blower)...

This isn't rocket science but I do realize some people (maybe even most) don't know this stuff.

In those situations you only need some beefy power ports on the auto. Not V2x.

I have 4 powerwalls and two large HVAC. Even with slow start units the coding here would not allow for the AC units on the backup circuits unless minimum 3 powerwalls were installed.
 
Look into soft start modules for central HVAC systems. Also, if you have mini splits those are a game changer. Having said that, I'm talking emergency situations here... Like grid down and we want to keep the fridge, freezer, some lights and fans working. I wouldn't be trying to run the AC because I understand loads pretty well. Heat might be fine (since I'm natural gas heat and it's just the blower) but I prob wouldn't even do that unless I was monitoring pretty closely.

This isn't rocket science but I do realize some people (maybe even most) don't know this stuff.

Let's think about the reality here. How long will the battery last in Atlanta during the summer with the A/C running?

And let's think about the grid down, how long do you want to be prepared for?

And sure, you are smart enough to regulate the AC. But what happens if the power goes out at 1AM after you are asleep? There probably isn't anything to wake you up to tell you to turn the AC off. What if you are gone for a few days, how do you know power is off and how are you going to control the power?

I'm in Atlanta and those cases have happened to me. I didn't have to worry about them because I had a whole house natural gas generator with auto start.
 
Let's think about the reality here. How long will the battery last in Atlanta during the summer with the A/C running?

And let's think about the grid down, how long do you want to be prepared for?

And sure, you are smart enough to regulate the AC. But what happens if the power goes out at 1AM after you are asleep? There probably isn't anything to wake you up to tell you to turn the AC off. What if you are gone for a few days, how do you know power is off and how are you going to control the power?

I'm in Atlanta and those cases have happened to me. I didn't have to worry about them because I had a whole house natural gas generator with auto start.

I've experienced all of these, so I can chime in a tad bit here.

1) with powerwalls, if the power is out, you know. The app kinda flashes on the page with a big orange box and notification that grid power is down.
2) I have 4 x PW2 (~50 kWh), and a solar system. If the sun is up, I can run two whole-house AC systems (4 and 5 ton units) 24/7 and not empty the powerwalls before the solar starts recharging them. The battery pack on the CT will be at minimum 2-3X the size of that 50kWh size. Assuming you did not have limitations on how fast you can pull power from the pack (see my post above, that's a big if), then that's a lot of power to run the AC.
3) We have NEST thermostats, we can just put them in ECO mode, etc. or remote shut them off. Kinda a must for a situation like this one, you need to be able to remotely control your largest power-consuming devices.
 
have you investigated smart main panels that monitor individual circuits & such?
there is a gadget made by Sense that uses a few current taps to monitor PV plus house circuits and such
a gadget made by Emporia that uses up to 16 current taps to monitor 16 circuits
I think Schneider electric has a smart mains panel that is very granular both monitoring and control all house circuits
(the tech is accelerating)

I would love one of these smart panels (probably the SPAN). I have looked into them. Unfortunately in our 6 year old home, to do that re-wiring with the powerwall load center, would be a $10k expense.
 
yeah, looking at getting the __heck__ outa SW Floriduh, hurricanes Irma and Ian did prob $70k damage
(and was relatively minor),(lots insurance companies pulling out, not paying claims)

eye of Ian went 10 miles west of me, Bokeelia, Captiva, Sanibel. we can handle 16 inch rain in 3 days, Ian dropped 26 inches about 40 miles N near Myakka river.
(the gates of hell knocking on your door is a strain on your equanimity)
The universe has got my attention with hurricanes Charlie, Irma, Eta, Ian plus all the other Cat 3,4,5

lots of folks want to buy so build new house way further inland way higher up w/monster PV batteries, smart panel etc.
me, outta hurricane area
(this doesnt have track of either Ian or 1841 hurricane that was identical track and scraped a barrier island clean

View attachment 918911


Don't move to Cali then. Insurance rates have gone bonkers here b/c of the wildfire risks. There are literally only two companies now that will insure all the homes on our street. And we are classified as a "moderate risk" zone, not the high one.
 
looking at North Carolina, inland, higher up, not tornado alley, will miss the warm weather, but around a few hundred people died, many drowned, some while on phone to 911, Ft Myers Beach is a sand bar and Ian kinda scraped a lot of houses away, but "they will rebuild" (some of them, the idiots), there are still a lot of houses with blue tarp roofs, we are 8ft MSL, 1 more inch and would have had barnacles in pool, 3 inches and in house. it was literally "gates of hell" knocking on the doors, roof, walls, lanai cage, 1mph under cat 5

Lived in NC, but further east. The area you mention is nice, very nice.
 
I've experienced all of these, so I can chime in a tad bit here.

1) with powerwalls, if the power is out, you know. The app kinda flashes on the page with a big orange box and notification that grid power is down.
2) I have 4 x PW2 (~50 kWh), and a solar system. If the sun is up, I can run two whole-house AC systems (4 and 5 ton units) 24/7 and not empty the powerwalls before the solar starts recharging them. The battery pack on the CT will be at minimum 2-3X the size of that 50kWh size. Assuming you did not have limitations on how fast you can pull power from the pack (see my post above, that's a big if), then that's a lot of power to run the AC.
3) We have NEST thermostats, we can just put them in ECO mode, etc. or remote shut them off. Kinda a must for a situation like this one, you need to be able to remotely control your largest power-consuming devices.
So you don't ever pull power from the grid?

By 24/7 I'm assuming that you are talking about 24 hours a day for a week for 52 weeks a year. Or is it possible that you are maybe suggesting that on good days that your solar can completely recharge your batteries, but on bad days they can't.

In many situations where we are talking power loss, we are often talking about catastrophic situations and in many of those situations, the weather isn't the greatest. For example, let's look at the California mountains where there are dozens of feet on show on everything right now.
 
So you don't ever pull power from the grid?

By 24/7 I'm assuming that you are talking about 24 hours a day for a week for 52 weeks a year. Or is it possible that you are maybe suggesting that on good days that your solar can completely recharge your batteries, but on bad days they can't.

In many situations where we are talking power loss, we are often talking about catastrophic situations and in many of those situations, the weather isn't the greatest. For example, let's look at the California mountains where there are dozens of feet on show on everything right now.

Very interesting question. Yes . . . and no.

For the first 4 years after our system was installed (see sig for specs), we were 99% self-sufficient (not an exaggeration, 99% per the Tesla app). Working from home we would charge the cars during the day from the solar, and top off the powerwalls. The only time that didn't work was on those winter days when we had a string of grey or rainy days, then we had to hit the grid. The 3 keys do doing this are: 1) have more solar than you need, 2) have sufficient storage to get through 2 days if you are off-grid - not counting adding in via solar, and 3) live in a sunny environment.


But . . . SDG&E (San Diego Gas & Extortion) recently forced EVERYONE off flat rate and tiered plans, and onto TOU plans. So, we went with an EV-TOU plan that incentivizes overnight charging. And I abuse the @#$% out of that now just to give SDG&E the middle finger. The 12A-6A rate is 1/4 the daily rate. So I charge up the cars, fill the powerwalls, run the AC at night heavily . . . and then when the sun comes up I export everything I make to the grid. It's bat *sugar* crazy that they even allow for something like that, but they are notorious for ripping off customers (we have THE highest power rates of any utility in the entire USA, including Hawaii), so it's good karma to be able to take advantage of them like that.
 
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Very interesting question. Yes . . . and no.

For the first 4 years after our system was installed (see sig for specs), we were 99% self-sufficient (not an exaggeration, 99% per the Tesla app). Working from home we would charge the cars during the day from the solar, and top off the powerwalls. The only time that didn't work was on those winter days when we had a string of grey or rainy days, then we had to hit the grid. The 3 keys do doing this are: 1) have more solar than you need, 2) have sufficient storage to get through 2 days if you are off-grid - not counting adding in via solar, and 3) live in a sunny environment.


But . . . SDG&E (San Diego Gas & Extortion) recently forced EVERYONE off flat rate and tiered plans, and onto TOU plans. So, we went with an EV-TOU plan that incentivizes overnight charging. And I abuse the @#$% out of that now just to give SDG&E the middle finger. The 12A-6A rate is 1/4 the daily rate. So I charge up the cars, fill the powerwalls, run the AC at night heavily . . . and then when the sun comes up I export everything I make to the grid. It's bat *sugar* crazy that they even allow for something like that, but they are notorious for ripping off customers (we have THE highest power rates of any utility in the entire USA, including Hawaii), so it's good karma to be able to take advantage of them like that.
Sorry, but that really doesn't make a lot of sense to me. If you were 99% self-sufficient. Then why would an SDG&E rate change impact you?