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Dashcam and Sentry USB

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i have the following USB drive (link below) and this morning i had a message about "USB drive not up to speed" and a red exclamation mark on the screen. I did a reboot in the car (Break and both buttons) and the message disappeared and seems to be working again! (V10 software)

Anyone else had this happen?

USB drive that i have - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MU...1YW934W2ZNR&psc=1&refRID=0HNZHF8WT1YW934W2ZNR

I also use a Raspberry Pi but having a few problems with this.
 
i have the following USB drive (link below) and this morning i had a message about "USB drive not up to speed" and a red exclamation mark on the screen. I did a reboot in the car (Break and both buttons) and the message disappeared and seems to be working again! (V10 software)

Anyone else had this happen?

USB drive that i have - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MU...1YW934W2ZNR&psc=1&refRID=0HNZHF8WT1YW934W2ZNR

I also use a Raspberry Pi but having a few problems with this.
That’s the same drive I’m using David. I’ll keep an eye out for any errors...

Mine’s been working fine for six weeks now. Perhaps some changes in V10 are causing the error?
 
i have the following USB drive (link below) and this morning i had a message about "USB drive not up to speed" and a red exclamation mark on the screen. I did a reboot in the car (Break and both buttons) and the message disappeared and seems to be working again! (V10 software)

Anyone else had this happen?

USB drive that i have - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MU...1YW934W2ZNR&psc=1&refRID=0HNZHF8WT1YW934W2ZNR

I also use a Raspberry Pi but having a few problems with this.

I've been having the same trouble prior to V10 using;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ul...2501&sprefix=sandisk+128gb+usb,aps,141&sr=8-4

Seems to work when I unplug and put it back in again but only temporarily. Haven't tried doing a reboot so will give that a go.
 
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yeah... haven't managed to get it to sync to my PC automatically yet, but I'll get there.

Question though: if you're using a Pi are you not using a micro SD (preferably high endurance)?
No just a Sandisk Extreme - this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FCMKK5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it lock onto my wifi and then upload footage to Google drive and clear the SD card. From there my phone uses an app to sync with google drive and download the footage to my Android phone and clear Google Drive. Seems to work but can be slow at downloading the data (Sometimes a few corrupt files).

Looking at a mesh network at the moment so will increase my wifi at home which is patchy at the best of times (i park on the street outside my home)
 
I'm using a Samsung FIT Plus 256 GB Type-A USB 3.1 flash drive - early days but seems fine so far. Reformatted it to FAT32, added the teslacam root folder and it seems to be happily recording away. £50 from Amazon, no adapter required, and at 256Gb I don't think there will be any capacity issues.
 
Looking at a mesh network at the moment so will increase my wifi at home which is patchy at the best of times (i park on the street outside my home)
Unless you've got very high speed Virgin or FTTP, i.e. over 100Mb down, I'd recommend the Tenda Nova MW3 system. I've had it since the start of the year, and the coverage is amazing.

When it's on offer you can pick up the 3 node system for about £60, and the four node one for £80.
 
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i have the following USB drive (link below) and this morning i had a message about "USB drive not up to speed" and a red exclamation mark on the screen. I did a reboot in the car (Break and both buttons) and the message disappeared and seems to be working again! (V10 software)

Anyone else had this happen?

USB drive that i have - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MU...1YW934W2ZNR&psc=1&refRID=0HNZHF8WT1YW934W2ZNR

I also use a Raspberry Pi but having a few problems with this.

there are actually posts on the US forum about the same issue with the same drive prior to v10 which is why I have gone with the sd card route now

How long do USB drives last for TeslaCam and Sentry mode? | Tesla
 
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Unless you've got very high speed Virgin or FTTP, i.e. over 100Mb down, I'd recommend the Tenda Nova MW3 system. I've had it since the start of the year, and the coverage is amazing.

When it's on offer you can pick up the 3 node system for about £60, and the four node one for £80.

Thanks for this - did see your post about this one before and is in my "wish list" at the moment so may go this route and get this one. I have 100mb Virgin but the old virign hub (about 2 years old)

there are actually posts on the US forum about the same issue with the same drive prior to v10 which is why I have gone with the sd card route now

How long do USB drives last for TeslaCam and Sentry mode? | Tesla

Will have a read, many thanks :) - may get a SSD but will see how my stick pans out! i do have the SD car as a backup if need too!
 
Thanks for this - did see your post about this one before and is in my "wish list" at the moment so may go this route and get this one. I have 100mb Virgin but the old virign hub (about 2 years old
We’ve never lived in a Virgin Media area, so I’ve no experience with their kit. For speeds over 100Mb Tenda do the more expensive MW6 mesh system.

Note that these are mesh router systems - you still need a modem to feed the first node. I’m on FTTC so I use the good old white Openreach modem. I guess you’d need to turn the WiFi off on your V box and use that as the modem, assuming it allows such meddling. Perhaps another Virgin user can advise?
 
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We’ve never lived in a Virgin Media area, so I’ve no experience with their kit. For speeds over 100Mb Tenda do the more expensive MW6 mesh system.

Note that these are mesh router systems - you still need a modem to feed the first node. I’m on FTTC so I use the good old white Openreach modem. I guess you’d need to turn the WiFi off on your V box and use that as the modem, assuming it allows such meddling. Perhaps another Virgin user can advise?
Your right, will be plugged into my router and wifi turned off. (Although it was a pain in the Back Side and was patchy at most times so off is way better :) )
 
I don't know much about Teslas yet (still waiting) but I'm learning thanks to you lot. However I do know a bit about SD cards as I shoot 4K video on SLR(ish) cameras and writing lots of beefy video to them in realtime is is similar in principle. I speak from (bad) experience on this topic!

What you need to have as a starting point for troubleshooting, is a level playing field and this can be achieved by choosing the right card. If you don't you end up with the kind of forum thread that has everyone chasing their tail with different results from different parameters and nobody's experiences matching. The main problems you tend to encounter are formatting issues and write speed issues. So as a starting point, get a card rated at minimum U3 and class 10. This is arguably overkill but the cost of this spec isn't much different to any other these days and you'd be surprised how many people still sell ancient stock. What's worse is that they LOOK the same. The Sandisk (which I use a lot) can look identical apart from the tiny U1 or U3 icon. Check when buying. Also, be wary of copies. Lots of fake stuff, even on Amazon, so buy from reputable supplier and read the reviews/ratings.

Also, size is a factor. I can't test this as I still don't have my car! Don't assume that bigger is better. Lots of relatively new electronic goods can have issues with the really big cards. You'd be surprised how many consumer products currently on sale were developed for 64Gb maximum. I even have a Zoom audio recorder which doesn't like cards over 32Gb (which I discovered when recording a critical interview with a racing driver to find I had a silent movie! )

The challenge with the Tesla system is it records more simultaneous camera feeds under the latest software update. It's constantly writing multiple streams simultaneously (I assume) so that's a challenge in itself without adding a further rear one under V10.

At a guess, I'd say the best choice for troubleshooting would be a class 10, U3 card by Sandisk at either 32Gb or 64Gb. Get the formatting correct, get it working and then, if stable and reliable over a week or so of testing, replicate the same card EXACTLY except in 128GB flavour to see if the size is the challenge. When my Tesla arrives, I'll be doing exactly the above and I'll check back here if I find any weirder.

The attached pic is from as webpage for my Panasonic cameras as of a couple of years ago but should be a reference for what the icons mean. Hope it helps.

Panasonic-GH4_Memory-Cards_Overview_003_SD-Speed-Classes.png
 
The issue is not so much speed, its to do with...
  • Different cars seem to behave different, even with exact same model, firmware, memory card etc. So everyone has different circumstances.
  • Tesla made a software change that started reporting some cards as "not fast enough" even though they had been working fine for ages before. Appears that it may be a bug as the memory cards are all plenty fast enough. Schoolboy maths indicates that data rate needed to support amount of data needing transferring is under 3MB/s. However we do not know how the data is actually being transferred as there are 4 approx 36MB files written every minute. It is possible that the too slow message means that this 144MB of data is not written within a certain number of seconds - my theory.
  • As data is being repeatedly written, memory can only be over written to a certain number of times before it fails. Some memory card technology is better at handling this than others, but they all suffer from it - a case of when, not if. Larger drives means slower overwrite rate even though with V10 large space is no longer as important.
  • The car is a hostile place - temperature and vibration etc. Plus people mishandling the cards - I had some 0kb files which I was concerned about until someone pointed out that you need to press and hold the dashcam icon before ejecting. These 0kb files matched the timings when I probably would have pulled the plug so no longer an issue.
  • I'm not convinced that the USB sockets work equally well with different plugs. A little adjustment of USB plug seems to change things.
  • Its a Tesla and dashcam/sentry is beta/aka work in progress so anything can change from one software version to another.
 
One, with a folder at the root called "TeslaCam". It will then create three folders itself for "RecentClips", "SavedClips", "SentryClips"
Can someone explain the operation of this?
It only creates “RecentClips” and “SavedClips” folders on mine. I’m quite confused by the way it works, dashcam footage seems to go into the “SavedClips” folder and sentry footage in “RecentClips”.
 
Can someone explain the operation of this?
It only creates “RecentClips” and “SavedClips” folders on mine. I’m quite confused by the way it works, dashcam footage seems to go into the “SavedClips” folder and sentry footage in “RecentClips”.

Only 2 Folders: You Don’t have V10 yet.

RecentClips: Files which you accumulate on Dash cam

SavedClips: if you hold the red dot on the dash cam icon it will save the last period and not be overwritten.

Apologies if any errors
 
I don't know much about Teslas yet (still waiting) but I'm learning thanks to you lot. However I do know a bit about SD cards as I shoot 4K video on SLR(ish) cameras and writing lots of beefy video to them in realtime is is similar in principle. I speak from (bad) experience on this topic!

What you need to have as a starting point for troubleshooting, is a level playing field and this can be achieved by choosing the right card. If you don't you end up with the kind of forum thread that has everyone chasing their tail with different results from different parameters and nobody's experiences matching. The main problems you tend to encounter are formatting issues and write speed issues. So as a starting point, get a card rated at minimum U3 and class 10. This is arguably overkill but the cost of this spec isn't much different to any other these days and you'd be surprised how many people still sell ancient stock. What's worse is that they LOOK the same. The Sandisk (which I use a lot) can look identical apart from the tiny U1 or U3 icon. Check when buying. Also, be wary of copies. Lots of fake stuff, even on Amazon, so buy from reputable supplier and read the reviews/ratings.

Also, size is a factor. I can't test this as I still don't have my car! Don't assume that bigger is better. Lots of relatively new electronic goods can have issues with the really big cards. You'd be surprised how many consumer products currently on sale were developed for 64Gb maximum. I even have a Zoom audio recorder which doesn't like cards over 32Gb (which I discovered when recording a critical interview with a racing driver to find I had a silent movie! )

The challenge with the Tesla system is it records more simultaneous camera feeds under the latest software update. It's constantly writing multiple streams simultaneously (I assume) so that's a challenge in itself without adding a further rear one under V10.

At a guess, I'd say the best choice for troubleshooting would be a class 10, U3 card by Sandisk at either 32Gb or 64Gb. Get the formatting correct, get it working and then, if stable and reliable over a week or so of testing, replicate the same card EXACTLY except in 128GB flavour to see if the size is the challenge. When my Tesla arrives, I'll be doing exactly the above and I'll check back here if I find any weirder.

The attached pic is from as webpage for my Panasonic cameras as of a couple of years ago but should be a reference for what the icons mean. Hope it helps.

View attachment 463446

in your opinion does the SanDisk extreme or endurance make much difference with them both being the same class/speed?

it’s also worth noting that the car isn’t necessarily reading/writing 24/7 to the card. It’s when either sentry is on or if the dash cam is on when driving so something to consider when concerned about use.
 
in your opinion does the SanDisk extreme or endurance make much difference with them both being the same class/speed?

it’s also worth noting that the car isn’t necessarily reading/writing 24/7 to the card. It’s when either sentry is on or if the dash cam is on when driving so something to consider when concerned about use.
Rooster. Without checking every single config (even I can’t keep up) I’d be reluctant to say yes to the above since you can still find SanDisk Extremes at U1 rating on sale. I’m also only giving a guideline here by stating that if you can dump 4K with the levels of compression that my Panasonic and many other semi-pro (pro-Sumer as they now call it) use, then you’re probably likely to be able to handle real-time write of several streams of 720p video. Not a given but a pretty good place to start. And I certainly wouldn’t go anywhere below as a starting guide.

I get your point about not writing 24/7 just like my camera isn’t running 24/7 so it’s not longevity I’m talking about. It’s being able to write a chunk of data from multiple streams and in real-time. The difference is that say you dump some massive files off your computer to a drive, it might be able to cope by throttling now and again because it doesn’t have to do it real-time. Without something buffering the data, with a card that’s lagging behind in writing the data, it’s eventually going to stop being able to cope. It has to keep up. The dash cam cameras are writing all the time on a 2 to 3 hr journey before you finally stop so they have to be able to write IRO the same speed you’re throwing the data at it.

hope that makes sense.

I have plenty of cards and wish I could be more specific but I don’t have a Tesla to test them on yet!