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Dashcam Install Help

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I read the thread and was hoping to summarize what I need for my Thinkware F800 I plan to have installed this week. I'd like to avoid the battery issue people are having so if I get a Cell Link B, I don't need to do anything other than plug into the lighter socket, correct? Looking at blackboxmycar.com, they state that I need a spliced hardwire kit. Does part of the kit need to get hardwired somewhere?

Lastly, It looks like the BlackView Power Magic B112 is not a good option since the unit won't let the Thinkware enter parking mode.
 
What do you think about attaching a front camera behind the center console screen?
I haven’t had a chance to test the video image from that location but that would make wiring somewhat simpler. No need to mess with A pillar or airbags.

IME the problem you'll run into there is windshield glare- you'll pick up a lot more ambient light and reflection from the cabin than you will with something where the lens is right in front of the window (you're exposing the camera to a lot more windshield surface area the further back you mount it). Also, unless you rip into the screen mount (yikes), you'll have ugly wires running around the console.
 
I picked up a Thinkware F800 Pro and a Cellink Neo, and just set everything up temporarily on the cigarette lighter to see if parking mode is worth the trouble. After driving around with it for a few days, I'm kinda leaning "no"... I'm not that impressed with all the parking mode alerts on the F800 Pro- even on the lowest motion sensitivity or timelapse settings in my garage, it still boots up every time with "over 10 parking events" most days... So unless I go "impact only", it's mainly just a source of noise. The other issue is that I have yet to find a good location to mount the Neo- it's a beast, and about 1/2" too large to fit decently anywhere in the console, so I'd either give up most of the glovebox, or mount it in the back somewhere and run switched power back there + the output run all the way back up front. I've already perma-wired the rear camera down the roofline (routed and tied down behind the airbags), so I could follow the same path to a location in the trunk, but I don't love that idea. Just tapping the lighter feed for "continuous mode only" is sounding better to me every day.
 
I picked up a Thinkware F800 Pro and a Cellink Neo, and just set everything up temporarily on the cigarette lighter to see if parking mode is worth the trouble. After driving around with it for a few days, I'm kinda leaning "no"... I'm not that impressed with all the parking mode alerts on the F800 Pro- even on the lowest motion sensitivity or timelapse settings in my garage, it still boots up every time with "over 10 parking events" most days... So unless I go "impact only", it's mainly just a source of noise. The other issue is that I have yet to find a good location to mount the Neo- it's a beast, and about 1/2" too large to fit decently anywhere in the console, so I'd either give up most of the glovebox, or mount it in the back somewhere and run switched power back there + the output run all the way back up front. I've already perma-wired the rear camera down the roofline (routed and tied down behind the airbags), so I could follow the same path to a location in the trunk, but I don't love that idea. Just tapping the lighter feed for "continuous mode only" is sounding better to me every day.

Thanks for sharing. I'm not familiar with the F800 yet. So is "impact mode" different than "parking mode"? I'd be ok with impact only notifications.
 
Here is the underside of the keycard reader and the access to the back of the lighter socket, which makes it a pretty good place to grab 12V on the switched circuit.

IMG_3215.jpeg IMG_3217.jpeg
 
Here is the underside of the keycard reader and the access to the back of the lighter socket, which makes it a pretty good place to grab 12V on the switched circuit.

View attachment 291194 View attachment 291195

If I may be so bold:
Any chance you could get some part numbers or shots of the connector that plugs the 12V socket? How much room is there in the area you are shooting up from?
 
If I may be so bold:
Any chance you could get some part numbers or shots of the connector that plugs the 12V socket? How much room is there in the area you are shooting up from?
Not sure when I'll open it up again, but I'll remember to take photos of the actual connector next time. If I end up using that source of power, I was planning on tapping it on the wire directly, and running it thru a hole that I would have to drill on the same wall as the lighter socket. That wall is plastic or similar on both sides, so I wouldn't be damaging any of the lining inside the middle console.
The are itself is about as deep as the cupholders, but the keycard reader enclosure itself is as think as a couple smart phones stacked together.
Here's a photo of the back side of the keycard reader and the cable that goes to it.
IMG_3216.jpeg
 
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Not sure when I'll open it up again, but I'll remember to take photos of the actual connector next time. If I end up using that source of power, I was planning on tapping it on the wire directly, and running it thru a hole that I would have to drill on the same wall as the lighter socket. That wall is plastic or similar on both sides, so I wouldn't be damaging any of the lining inside the middle console.
The are itself is about as deep as the cupholders, but the keycard reader enclosure itself is as think as a couple smart phones stacked together.
Here's a photo of the back side of the keycard reader and the cable that goes to it.
View attachment 291199

Ah, thanks! I had it upside down in my head (as if you were shooting up from floor, not down from top).
I was thinking a T connector might be nice to have, but a normal splice is just as effective.
 
So, question to the group, If the 3 never works with a continuously connected accessory load, would people be interested in a kit that allows use of any 12V gel/Sealed battery to provide continuous power to a dash cam/ other device? Basically, it would recharge when car was on and provide power for X hours/days afterward, either through the 12V outlet or separate wires. That cubby looks like a decent size for the battery.
 
So, question to the group, If the 3 never works with a continuously connected accessory load, would people be interested in a kit that allows use of any 12V gel/Sealed battery to provide continuous power to a dash cam/ other device? Basically, it would recharge when car was on and provide power for X hours/days afterward, either through the 12V outlet or separate wires. That cubby looks like a decent size for the battery.
Blackvue has that option already, but it takes one hour to charge and lasts for 12 hours only. To a lot of people that's not enough, since their commute is shorter than an hour, and the car may stay parked at night longer than the 12 hours. Now, if there would be some sort of a switch that activates every 6 hours (for about 30-40 minutes at a time) to recharge that battery... I think it could "trick" the system.
 
So, question to the group, If the 3 never works with a continuously connected accessory load, would people be interested in a kit that allows use of any 12V gel/Sealed battery to provide continuous power to a dash cam/ other device? Basically, it would recharge when car was on and provide power for X hours/days afterward, either through the 12V outlet or separate wires. That cubby looks like a decent size for the battery.
That's basically what the Power Magic Battery Pack is.
 
@bluecow82 and @RyanS how does that cover (where the key card swipes) remove? Is it just those 3 brass clips? Do you just pull the cover directly up gently but firmly?
Best to remove the black side panels, on both passenger and driver side. Those are easily removable, pull from the back (at end of the console), towards the front. It uses the same brass clips. Then it's just a pull uplike you said.
I only removed the passanger side panel and I was fighting it a bit, especially to put it back.
 
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@Jason Bourne @bluecow82
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I'd seen the Blackview system, but the cost, run time, and charge rate seemed less than optimal.
Amazon has (for example) 8,000 mAh batteries for sub $20. Actual battery selection (and interface circuit) would depend on drive cycle.
Agreed, I don't think the PM Battery is worth $150. If you figure out something else worth while, please let me know.
 
Best to remove the black side panels, on both passenger and driver side. Those are easily removable, pull from the back (at end of the console), towards the front. It uses the same brass clips. Then it's just a pull uplike you said.
I only removed the passanger side panel and I was fighting it a bit, especially to put it back.
So are you saying the panel between the center console and the seat on each side? And you slide them toward the front of the car or the back?