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Dashcam Install Help

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I emailed them and received a reply in a couple hours. So far, I’ve had a good experience with them.

Not at all what I've experienced. Literally days would go by without anyone responding, even up to a week on two separate occasions for different issues. I had to resend e-mails to ask why they hadn't responded a couple of times too. One thing was super simple--just needed to get a defective SD card replaced. For that, they wanted me to send the front and rear cams in for diagnostics, which would have taken almost 2 weeks to get back.
 
Unfortunately I don't...should have taken more photos! But it is pretty straightforward...just pull the panel from the lower dash area (straight out).

I finally got around to finishing this. I had tried 2 weekends ago and was doing only the passenger side but couldn't fit the battery through, also ended up tweaking my shoulder so I gave up that attempt.

I tried again today and opened it from the driver side and it worked like a charm and just slipped right in. I put a bit of tape to see if it'll hold the battery in place and prevent it from sliding around.

I ran the DC in cigarette adapter along the inside edge of the passenger side of the center console trim so that it was out of sight.
I then connected the dashcam power to a wireless relay that I spliced with a molex connector on the input side and a hardline power adapter to the dashcam.

None of the cables are visible when sitting in the passenger side.
 

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I finally got around to finishing this. I had tried 2 weekends ago and was doing only the passenger side but couldn't fit the battery through, also ended up tweaking my shoulder so I gave up that attempt.

I tried again today and opened it from the driver side and it worked like a charm and just slipped right in. I put a bit of tape to see if it'll hold the battery in place and prevent it from sliding around.

I ran the DC in cigarette adapter along the inside edge of the passenger side of the center console trim so that it was out of sight.
I then connected the dashcam power to a wireless relay that I spliced with a molex connector on the input side and a hardline power adapter to the dashcam.

None of the cables are visible when sitting in the passenger side.

Awesome, can you tell us how you got the panels off of that part?
 
Maybe I can help. A wireless relay is electronic switch that is controlled with a small remote control/transmitter that when the button is pushed sends a signal to the receiver and turns the switch(relay) on or off. The receiver can have one pole (switch) or more. The transmitter could be a toggle (used for turning lights on or off) or momentary (like the button of a horn) It just depends on what mission you have for the relay/switch. Its generally called a relay because when used on a auto, 12V and ground give the relay power, and on the output side, the transmitter passes the same 12v and ground to the device i.e., lights, dash cam, radar detector, horn. Example, since many dash cameras don't have an on-off switch (like the Blackvue) the off requires us to unplug the power. However, if you put a wireless remote relay/switch on it, using the power going to the dash cam passing thru the remote relay/switch and going on to the dash cam, you can use a remote control with button (about the size of a half dollar, remember when we had half dollars) and turn the dash cam off easier than unplugging it. Using it on a keychain, you could turn it on or off after you left the car. Make sense?

Here's links to a couple of examples:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZR49LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6PA10...&pd_rd_r=4f76f10a-81a2-11e8-8137-95af0e3aa013

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A8A1UW...&pd_rd_r=0888259d-81a4-11e8-88f0-530297bd69ef

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6PDYLU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01A6PDYLU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC2N41N/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DC2N41N
 
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Reactions: scottf200 and vypr
Any updates on people who have wired directly to the cars 12V over the last 2-3 months? Still shooting out battery replacement errors? The b124 backup battery 16 hour runtime just isnt enough in some cases - I would like to use a switch to choose between the b124 battery or the car's 12V only when necessary.
 
View attachment 307209



Will it work? Probably, but I'm not sure how the battery is wired and there's no reason to take a chance. Both the car and the blackvue battery are floating grounds. In general, you should never connect these together. Wiring it properly doesn't cost any more and isn't any more difficult so it's just not worth the chance something goes wrong with tying the grounds.

On the relay idea: A relay is just a switch that can be actuated by a computer instead of manually pressing/fliping. So yeah, if you setup a microcontroller with GPS or something it can automatically turn this on and off depending on location (or whatever other crazy ideas for automation you have). Definitely something to look into if you want an automated solution.

Need your advice again!

I found that the B124 battery only lasts 15-16 hours, and sometimes I am parked for longer than that outside my home area. I was hoping to have a relay switch automatically switch from the b124 (once it completely runs out of battery) as a power source to directly from the 12v car battery. I know that people are getting error messages if connected directly, but I would only tap into the 12v battery sparingly - especially if it has to run through the 16 hours of the b124 first. Is there a way to setup a relay to do this?

Would something like this work:

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-MY2NJ-HH52P-Power-Relay/dp/B00843ITLM

How would you wire this?
 
Maybe I can help. A wireless relay is electronic switch that is controlled with a small remote control/transmitter that when the button is pushed sends a signal to the receiver and turns the switch(relay) on or off. The receiver can have one pole (switch) or more. The transmitter could be a toggle (used for turning lights on or off) or momentary (like the button of a horn) It just depends on what mission you have for the relay/switch. Its generally called a relay because when used on a auto, 12V and ground give the relay power, and on the output side, the transmitter passes the same 12v and ground to the device i.e., lights, dash cam, radar detector, horn. Example, since many dash cameras don't have an on-off switch (like the Blackvue) the off requires us to unplug the power. However, if you put a wireless remote relay/switch on it, using the power going to the dash cam passing thru the remote relay/switch and going on to the dash cam, you can use a remote control with button (about the size of a half dollar, remember when we had half dollars) and turn the dash cam off easier than unplugging it. Using it on a keychain, you could turn it on or off after you left the car. Make sense?

Here's links to a couple of examples:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZR49LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6PA10...&pd_rd_r=4f76f10a-81a2-11e8-8137-95af0e3aa013

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A8A1UW...&pd_rd_r=0888259d-81a4-11e8-88f0-530297bd69ef

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6PDYLU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01A6PDYLU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC2N41N/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DC2N41N

Tagging you since you know what youre talking about as well, can you take a look at my post above this?
 
Any updates on people who have wired directly to the cars 12V over the last 2-3 months? Still shooting out battery replacement errors? The b124 backup battery 16 hour runtime just isnt enough in some cases - I would like to use a switch to choose between the b124 battery or the car's 12V only when necessary.

I like this one too. Its a little different than many since its go two buttons, and they light up. With two buttons you know if you are turning it on regardless of whether you press the button twice or more. With the single button, you are turning it on, press again and turn it off. And you have to wait for the item to react before you know if you left it in on or off. Pain in the okole.
 
Need your advice again!

I found that the B124 battery only lasts 15-16 hours, and sometimes I am parked for longer than that outside my home area. I was hoping to have a relay switch automatically switch from the b124 (once it completely runs out of battery) as a power source to directly from the 12v car battery. I know that people are getting error messages if connected directly, but I would only tap into the 12v battery sparingly - especially if it has to run through the 16 hours of the b124 first. Is there a way to setup a relay to do this?

Would something like this work:

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-MY2NJ-HH52P-Power-Relay/dp/B00843ITLM

How would you wire this?

I don't think this HH52P item above would help. I don't think that's what its designed for. Seems to me, you need a relay that passes the power from primary/Circuit side A to secondary/Circuit side B completely. The hand off need not be timed to occur without a power break (might be too expensive to insure no power drop). You just want it to pickup and power the device back up in 10 seconds or a minute maybe. Maybe the solution would be a relay that counts down from 6 or 12 hours and then shuts power off before power runs out, then less than a minute later fires up the secondary circuit to repower the device. The relay would need to be powered from the car's circuit all the time until turned off manually, since if the primary circuit ran out, it would not have power to reach over to the secondary circuit.

Hanklloydright, what do you think of the Amazon linked item? What do you think of a two circuit timed relay. Know of anything?
 
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Reactions: ranova
This is how I currently have 3 BlackVue products setup in my 2017 X very recently. Still evaluating but I spent a lot of time on it so I hope it works out!
I have the Power Magic Pro (PMP) set up for 12v cutoff and 12hrs. The PMP only has Max 2A output tho so it charges the B-112 battery pack slow.

FLOW: Model X trailer plug --> going to ...
--> BlackVue Power Magic Pro (PMP) --> going to ...
--> BlackVue Power Magic Battery Pack (B-112) --> going to ...
--> Blackvuew DR900S-2CH & hotspot via B-112 USB

a) Model X trailer brake plug
• 12v 20amps (shown in manual)

b) BlackVue Power Magic Pro (PMP)
• Rated output voltage: DC 12~24V
• Output current / Quiescent current: Rated current 1A, Max. 2A / Under 200µA [12 volt * 2 amp = 24 watts]
[set up for 12v cutoff and 12hrs currently]

c) BlackVue Power Magic Battery Pack (B-112)
Input Power Cigarette lighter plug: 12 V–24 V / 6.5 A (max)
Input Voltage/Current MIN: 12 V / 6.5 A, MAX: 24 V / 3.65 A [12 volt * 6.5 amp = 78 watts]
Output Voltage: When charging from a 12 V cigarette lighter
• 2 USB sockets: each 5 V / 2 A [Verizon JetPack Hotspot plugged into 1]
• Dashcam: 12 V / 1 A [12 volt * 1 amp = 12 watts]

d) Model Name: DR900S-2CH
Input Power: DC 12 V – 24 V (DC Plug: (Ø3.5 x Ø1.35), MAX 1 A/12 V)
Power Consumption
• Avg. 380 mA (4.56 W at 12 V, when GPS is On and Wi-Fi is Off)
• Avg. 360 mA (4.32 W at 12 V, when GPS is Off and Wi-Fi is Off)

e) Verizon Mobile Hotspot AC791L
Maximum: ~900 mA
Standby current:
• 4 mA (1xEV-DO/IS2000 hybrid mode)
• ~6.5 mA (LTE)
 
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