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flashflooder
Member
I've got the Blackvue 490. No issues so far, but it's only been a few days. I will likely just unplug the camera if I'm ever leaving the car parked for an extended period.
rfmurphy81
Member
Any chance you can describe or link to the products you used to connect to the BlackVue? Did you use a an 18 gauge Posi-Tap? Did you connect to the yellow wire under the hazard button in the headliner? As soon as I better understand how it connects from the yellow wire to the dashcam, I'll pull the trigger on buying the necessary parts.
flashflooder
Member
I just used this:
https://smile.amazon.com/YIYATOO-Co...null-spons&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa&psc=1
I used the red ones, which are the smallest gauge. The yellow/black wires are fairly small, I want to say 20 gauge or so. Tapped into the yellow wire in the headliner, and the black wire for ground in the opposite row on the connector. Then, simply cut the power cord of the dash cam and connect red to the yellow wire, and black to the black. It’s all very easy to do.
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
I used to use those taps and crimp tab connectors for everything.. they do work.
But then I was introduced to Posi-taps, which are 1000% better and easier to use. No need to crimp the connecting wire with a tab connector. No tools needed, and they're very easy to undo, leaving the wire virtually untapped. Instead of shark-biting the cable like the old-style taps do, these simply pierce it with a small hole.
See: https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-pack-connectors-20-22/dp/B001MPW54G
Assorted size pack: https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII
...or just search for "Posi-tap"
You'll thank me later.
But then I was introduced to Posi-taps, which are 1000% better and easier to use. No need to crimp the connecting wire with a tab connector. No tools needed, and they're very easy to undo, leaving the wire virtually untapped. Instead of shark-biting the cable like the old-style taps do, these simply pierce it with a small hole.
See: https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-pack-connectors-20-22/dp/B001MPW54G
Assorted size pack: https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII
...or just search for "Posi-tap"
You'll thank me later.
rfmurphy81
Member
The following video showed up at the top of my recommended videos on YouTube so apparently the Google gods heard my wishes:
This points out the yellow constant power and one of the ground wires. Since I already have the Posi-Taps, looks like I'm going to have a project to tackle this weekend.
The following video showed up at the top of my recommended videos on YouTube so apparently the Google gods heard my wishes:
This points out the yellow constant power and one of the ground wires. Since I already have the Posi-Taps, looks like I'm going to have a project to tackle this weekend.
I believe this power source drops to 9V when the car is off (my dashcam installer tried this in January).
rfmurphy81
Member
A few questions:
- Is it safe to assume that a BlackVue camera wouldn't work if it drops to 9v?
- Does anyone know if there is a way to properly test the voltage depending on the car's state (active, idle, sleeping, etc.) prior to wiring everything up?
- Where did you end up connecting? Were you one of the ones that connected straight to the 12v battery then later had warnings/errors which resulted in the Service Center replacing the battery?
flashflooder
Member
Not sure whether it drops to 9V or not, but my Blackvue camera stays on regardless.
rfmurphy81
Member
Well, that's enough for me to move forward then.
Here's what have to move forward:
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMC5DII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for Posi-Taps to connect into the yellow wire
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LFRT8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to connect from the Posi-Tap into the camera power input
- Camera itself
flashflooder
Member
Yes, I connected the camera ground to the black wire in the harness.Well, that's enough for me to move forward then.
Here's what have to move forward:
Did you do anything with the ground wire coming from the camera power input? I saw in that video that one of those black wires was a ground so not sure if i need to tap into that, too.
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMC5DII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for Posi-Taps to connect into the yellow wire
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LFRT8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to connect from the Posi-Tap into the camera power input
- Camera itself
Instead of buying that DC jack, you could just snip the blackvue's power lead and save yourself $8. The wires inside the blackvue cord are red (connect to yellow), and black (to black).
JPP
Active Member
So just to verify, you have a BlackVue dual front-rear dash cam in your Model 3 powered from the yellow-black ‘always on’ pair in the headliner as in the video up-thread, and it in fact never shuts off? No issues with the current draw versus the draw of the emergency flashers?
K-MTG...did your installer abandon getting power here due to the voltage drop??
flashflooder
Member
Been running it the way you describe for a week and zero issues. Both map lights on, hazards on, AND using the microphone for a phone call. No current draw issues. I test it just about every time I approach the car by waving my hand in front of it, and I can see it writing files to the card when I do. No matter how long it’s been sitting.
This is great to know.
Will be following this thread.
I used instructions here for my Tesla S and Blackvue installed about a year ago, and have never had any problems with the 24/7 recording & power.
I'll probably wait a bit longer before purchasing another Blackvue for the Model 3 until confirmed step-by-step instructions are available for constant power (unless there is already a good video out there already)
JPP
Active Member
I will probably hook up a voltmeter and point it out the window and watch it for a while. Even if the voltage drops to 9V I guess the power supply in the Blackvue must autoregulate (might pull a bit more amps at 9V to get total desired watts).
I would just cut the Blackvue cable and use Positaps to connect. I assume I won’t need the fuse since the Model 3 has solid state protection.
Many thanks for the info.
For those looking for a Blendmount for your BlackVue cam, they finally released it here:
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I'll update this when I receive it soon!
Use my referral link to receive 12.5% off! Share via FB also gets you $5 off (click the link in the product page)
BlendMount | J28 Design Inc. - Friend Offer
I'll update this when I receive it soon!
mblakele
FSD Beta (99)
I've read through this thread but I'm uncertain on one point. Can anyone verify that the right size posi-tap for the yellow-black wires in the headliner dome light harness is the red posi-tap, 20-22 AWG? Or is it better to use blue, 16-18 AWG?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
flashflooder
Member
rfmurphy81
Member
So I've made baby steps:
I've prewired from the power and coaxial cables, confirming that power comes from the yellow and ground from the black on the otherside of the clip. I just have yet to do the mounting. I'm trying to find a place near the rear view mirror to mount where you can't see it from the driver's seat, PLUS it seems like I can't mount it upside down (with the cable ports facing toward the driver) without the video being upside down so I'm a bit hung up on that; apparently, you can flip the image using the BlackVue desktop client but not their iOS app. Perhaps my firmware is out of date and it's possible to control that now from the camera/iOS app. Plus, there's the fun of trying to figure out how to mount it behind the rear passenger headrest with the way the windshield isn't flat.
I've prewired from the power and coaxial cables, confirming that power comes from the yellow and ground from the black on the otherside of the clip. I just have yet to do the mounting. I'm trying to find a place near the rear view mirror to mount where you can't see it from the driver's seat, PLUS it seems like I can't mount it upside down (with the cable ports facing toward the driver) without the video being upside down so I'm a bit hung up on that; apparently, you can flip the image using the BlackVue desktop client but not their iOS app. Perhaps my firmware is out of date and it's possible to control that now from the camera/iOS app. Plus, there's the fun of trying to figure out how to mount it behind the rear passenger headrest with the way the windshield isn't flat.
- Where's the best position to mount on the windshield that isn't visible from the driver's seat but isn't blocked by the AutoPilot hardware?
- Has anyone found a way to mount the front camera "upside down" without the video being upside down?
- What tricks are being found to position correctly in the rear window given the tilt of the window there?
- Where is everyone getting the cable clips? BlackVue sells them directly for 2.99 plus 20 shipping!
I used the red. It gets pretty tight in there so be mindful about how they get in the cavity up there.
According to BlackVue, the DR750S-2CH in parking mode draws an average 300mA (3.6W at 12V, when GPS and Wi-Fi are OFF) and an average 350mA (4.2W at 12V, when GPS and Wi-Fi are ON).
So an inline fuse is NOT necessary for this setup?
