Data Plans After Editing Order?

[thelastdeadmouse]

After a tortured few weeks, I just modified my June 27th AWD order to be a Performance AWD instead. The question is has Tesla stated whether orders placed before July 1st, but edited after, still qualify for lifetime data, or will I have to pay after the first year now?

 

[miltymoots]

I read on another thread that they take it from point of first order (when you parted with the $2500). You might have to ask your ISA though to make sure it happens

 

[tich]

I read on another thread that they take it from point of first order (when you parted with the $2500). You might have to ask your ISA though to make sure it happens

I called Tesla and they confirmed that this is true.

 

[jlawzy]

I configured on 6/30 and edited on 7/1. My delivery is in two weeks and my ISA confirmed that they see the original order date of 6/30 which means free premium data connectivity. So, you should be good.

 

[ModelNforNerd]

I called Tesla and they confirmed that this is true.

I am in this boat. I upgraded from AWD to P on 7/16, but since my $2,500 was put down May 23rd, I am grandfathered in (at least according to the ISA I spoke with).

 

[VT_EE]

Good to know. I configured an AWD on 6/27, but changed it to RWD last week. Couldn't stomach the efficiency/range loss associated with AWD.

 

[ModelNforNerd]

Good to know. I configured an AWD on 6/27, but changed it to RWD last week. Couldn't stomach the efficiency/range loss associated with AWD.

I went the other direction with that thinking:

I want the traction, being in New England, and if I'm going to lose range by getting AWD, I may as well have fun doing it.

 

[Bluefranky222]

What is the difference technically between AWD P vs plain AWD? I hear electric motor is the same? Does the car weight different?

 

[Knightshade]

What is the difference technically between AWD P vs plain AWD? I hear electric motor is the same? Does the car weight different?

Software is the only 100% for sure confirmed difference

All hardware differences (brakes, 20" wheels, 0.39" lower ride height, etc) appear to be in the $5000 performance "upgrade" pack

 

[Bluefranky222]

What about this motor selections of high vs low? I guess motors from assembly line get tested and the ones with higher rating output goes on performance and RWD and ones that are low goes on Dual Motor.

 

[Bluefranky222]

I am having such a hard time deciding what do to.
I currently own a RWD vin 65xx very happy with it! No EAP no FSD. Will sell it to get AWD.

I Placed a AWD order with EAP and FSD
I wanted to get dual motor for better handling, slightly faster ACC and get Gen 2 seats. I was hoping for white interior but that is not an option.

Decisión decisión

 

[Bluefranky222]

My Model 3

 

[Knightshade]

What about this motor selections of high vs low? I guess motors from assembly line get tested and the ones with higher rating output goes on performance and RWD and ones that are low goes on Dual Motor.

As far as Tesla has said the higher scoring motors go specifically in the P only.

That said- given modern manufacturing tolerances it's unlikely the actual score differences are especially significant. I doubt this is info we'll ever see published officially though.

The EPA data FWIW shows both front motors, P and AWD, as having exactly the same output... and the P and RWD rears having the same with AWD slightly lower- software limiting the AWD to keep it "slower" than the P is the most likely explanation for that since they weren't "motor selecting" when building RWD cars for the last year and all those hit the same output # as the ones going in the P.

So the lot sorting of drive units most likely only does the following:

Give a marketing distinction between P and AWD other than the software differences

Potentially slightly reduces warranty cost on the P

Gives them slightly more potential leeway to further unlock output later via software

 

[avarkey]

I went the other direction with that thinking:

I want the traction, being in New England, and if I'm going to lose range by getting AWD, I may as well have fun doing it.

I did the same. Switched from RWD to AWD. Spoke with ISA and changed the configuration even after the VIN assignment.

 

[Bluefranky222]

As far as Tesla has said the higher scoring motors go specifically in the P only.

That said- given modern manufacturing tolerances it's unlikely the actual score differences are especially significant. I doubt this is info we'll ever see published officially though.

The EPA data FWIW shows both front motors, P and AWD, as having exactly the same output... and the P and RWD rears having the same with AWD slightly lower- software limiting the AWD to keep it "slower" than the P is the most likely explanation for that since they weren't "motor selecting" when building RWD cars for the last year and all those hit the same output # as the ones going in the P.

So the lot sorting of drive units most likely only does the following:

Give a marketing distinction between P and AWD other than the software differences

Potentially slightly reduces warranty cost on the P

Gives them slightly more potential leeway to further unlock output later via software

So should I go with AWD or stick to RWD?

 

[Knightshade]

So should I go with AWD or stick to RWD?

I mean... that really up to why you're getting the car and what you value... Personally I'm getting the AWD because the cost for the performance gain (especially staying planted while accelerating in curves) seems worthwhile to me (and the cost/gain ratio on the P, not so much, to me at least...if I were likely to be (non-drag strip) racing the car on a track a lot though I'd probably get the P).

I don't really care a ton about range, it's rare I'd need to drive more than 100 miles on a typical day, and MAYBE 150-200 on a non-typical one, and anything longer is a road trip that will involve superchargers... so the ~8% range difference doesn't matter to me but might matter a lot to others...

But if someone doesn't really care about performance as much, or max range is vital, the RWD is cheaper and goes longer between charges.


From your original question about it though it sounds like you want AWD for exactly the same reasons I do... (plus since you're adding EAP and FSD you're saving a few grand getting em on a "new" order instead of adding to a post-delivery car)

So the other thing is- do you have enough tax liability to take TWO tax credits in the same year?

If so it seems a no brainer to sell the RWD since you can likely get most of your net cost on that car back to put toward the AWD... if not you have to consider that in your math.

 

[Bluefranky222]

I mean... that really up to why you're getting the car and what you value... Personally I'm getting the AWD because the cost for the performance gain (especially staying planted while accelerating in curves) seems worthwhile to me (and the cost/gain ratio on the P, not so much, to me at least...if I were likely to be (non-drag strip) racing the car on a track a lot though I'd probably get the P).

I don't really care a ton about range, it's rare I'd need to drive more than 100 miles on a typical day, and MAYBE 150-200 on a non-typical one, and anything longer is a road trip that will involve superchargers... so the ~8% range difference doesn't matter to me but might matter a lot to others...

But if someone doesn't really care about performance as much, or max range is vital, the RWD is cheaper and goes longer between charges.


From your original question about it though it sounds like you want AWD for exactly the same reasons I do... (plus since you're adding EAP and FSD you're saving a few grand getting em on a "new" order instead of adding to a post-delivery car)

So the other thing is- do you have enough tax liability to take TWO tax credits in the same year?

If so it seems a no brainer to sell the RWD since you can likely get most of your net cost on that car back to put toward the AWD... if not you have to consider that in your math.

AGREE!!! If I break Even in selling my car at cost and difference of EAP and FSD new is 3K in savings then really it is costing me 1K more to get AWD and Gen 2 seats and any improvements they did between my VIN of 65XX.