DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

[PWlakewood]

I used a pair of hemostat clamps

I had my ac stop working this last week and took my S to my local sc and sure enough they called and told me that it would be 3400 to fix. Of course I started questioning why they had to replace the dc/DC converter and the guy said hes just going with what the tech said . I kept asking questions and pressing the situation and after they had a few days with my car I was told it was just low refrigerant and that it's all good now. I think he was shocked when I mentioned the fuses and that usually solves the problem. They never did say that they replaced the ac compressor and dc/DC converter just that they tested the system for leaks and found none and refilled the refrigerant and all is good now.

 

[alexbdim]

Thanks a lot @braoudap and @Gixx1300R, for sure would reach-out for further pointers.

BTW when my car was delivered five years back the A/C came empty without any refrigerant and it took me more than a month for Tesla to solve this issue.

I just hope that my SC is not playing games again by stating that it is the DC/DC converter, while it could be just the A/C. I really hope that it is one bad fuse controlling the cold/cooling, which also they stated, in writing as well, that it impacts my main battery and the 8 year warranty would not be valid if this issue is not resolved.

 

[ElectricTravel]

So the second gen DC-DC converters are being fixed with new fuses instead of complete replacement at service centers?

Yes, that is correct.

The second generation DC-DC converter design (cars built after approximately January 2014) has these high voltage fuses in the Forward Junction Box instead of the DC-DC converter, and the Forward Junction Box is designed to be opened to replace the fuses. As far as I know there are currently only 2 generations.

 

[caaviator]

Does anyone know what fuses are in a first gen DC/DC converter and where I can buy them so I can have them on hand before I take it apart?

 

[PWlakewood]

Does anyone know what fuses are in a first gen DC/DC converter and where I can buy them so I can have them on hand before I take it apart?

If I remember correctly theres a link in this thread somewhere

 

[caaviator]

I have not found the fuse type and sizes in the thread. Is there another place to look?

 

[Gixx1300R]

I have not found the fuse type and sizes in the thread. Is there another place to look?

The smaller fuses are ceramic 20A/500V

 

[caaviator]

The smaller fuses are ceramic 20A/500V

Thank You
Does anyone know the larger size and where I can buy both of them?

 

[Gixx1300R]

Thank You
Does anyone know the larger size and where I can buy both of them?

40A/700v or a 40a14Fa ceramic fuse

 

[David.85D]

The ones I’ve seen in The DC-DC converter also have a rectifier built in (it’s directional, only allows current one way). Has an arrow like symbol that shows how it should be installed. Figure out your part number and get the exact replacement.

I’m not aware of the differences by generation, so can’t advise.

 

[braoudap]

@caaviator, this is the fuse you need: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-FWP40A14FA-NSNP-GENUINE-40A14FA/dp/B0161CKSTS. Hope that helps!

 

[alexbdim]

Hi all,

Finally yesterday got around to fix my DC/DC converter/fuse issue, for sure the fuse was the issue, replaced both big once.

Quite straightforward process as all have stated, even got inside the DC/DC converter quite easy and fast. I think because we were two, used small screwdriver to open extra space for the razorblade to move forward much easier.

Anyway, once we put back everything together the A/C compressor started to work right away and the cold returned.

Last night left the car to charge overnight at work at the 32A charger and today when drove 15 minutes from work with the A/C on it stop working again. The compressor does not kick-in it just clicks, but it does not start. Usually, I have a quite noticeable noise when it is all fine and working, which was music for my ears yesterday. Unfortunately, today again is not a good day.

For now I am think of opening again the DC/DC converter later next week to check if the fuse is good or now the A/C converter is the issue, but I am running with ideas and options. Could it be the A/C coolant, not sufficient since last top-up?

What do you guys think?

Thanks

 

[Gixx1300R]

Hi all,

Finally yesterday got around to fix my DC/DC converter/fuse issue, for sure the fuse was the issue, replaced both big once.

Quite straightforward process as all have stated, even got inside the DC/DC converter quite easy and fast. I think because we were two, used small screwdriver to open extra space for the razorblade to move forward much easier.

Anyway, once we put back everything together the A/C compressor started to work right away and the cold returned.

Last night left the car to charge overnight at work at the 32A charger and today when drove 15 minutes from work with the A/C on it stop working again. The compressor does not kick-in it just clicks, but it does not start. Usually, I have a quite noticeable noise when it is all fine and working, which was music for my ears yesterday. Unfortunately, today again is not a good day.

For now I am think of opening again the DC/DC converter later next week to check if the fuse is good or now the A/C converter is the issue, but I am running with ideas and options. Could it be the A/C coolant, not sufficient since last top-up?

What do you guys think?

Thanks

Glad it was an easy process for you. I also found it pretty easy. It is pretty sad that Tesla does not train their Techs to repair the DC to DC converter,it is a cheap fix but I am sure they need to charge is $2500 to raise capital . What fuses did you use?

 

[alexbdim]

Glad it was an easy process for you. I also found it pretty easy. It is pretty sad that Tesla does not train their Techs to repair the DC to DC converter it is a cheap fix. What fuses did you use?

Identical fuse, see photo.

This is my spare one with the original bad one.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Check the smaller 20A fuses also when you open it back up

 

[alexbdim]

Check the smaller 20A fuses also when you open it back up

they both were good!

But their size is not exactly what I have seen in the forums on this topic, as I order what I saw around here and they came quite different.

Anyway, for sure will do.

 

[Gixx1300R]

they both were good!

But their size is not exactly what I have seen in the forums on this topic, as I order what I saw around here and they came quite different.

Anyway, for sure will do.

scroll up, the smaller fuses are ceramic 20A/500V

 

[alexbdim]

scroll up, the smaller fuses are ceramic 20A/500V

Thanks, I probably have right fuse, but in the wrong physical dimensions. Do you know them?

We did not want to touch them as they were perfectly fine.

Could it be also an issue with A/C compressor, which they want to replace together with DC/DC converter for so much money?

 

[MP3Mike]

Could it be also an issue with A/C compressor, which they want to replace together with DC/DC converter for so much money?

Sure it could be the compressor, or it could be contaminated refrigerant. It is possible to get enough of the wrong oil in the system just by using hoses that were used on a traditional ICE A/C compressor that used incompatible oil. That oil is conductive, and will cause the A/C compressor to short. (I mention that because you mentioned that you had the system topped up at some point.) If that is what happened I don't know what it would take to clean the system out to the point that it would be reliable again.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Thanks, I probably have right fuse, but in the wrong physical dimensions. Do you know them?

We did not want to touch them as they were perfectly fine.

Could it be also an issue with A/C compressor, which they want to replace together with DC/DC converter for so much money?

Remember there are 2 different size fuses, I would change them all