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asavage
Member
This is not correct. It's a Bussmann FWP-40A14Fa fuse, and only a fuse. It's a high-speed fuse, designed to protect more-sensitive semiconductor circuits.
From page 5 of http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...technical-literature/bus-ele-an-10507-hsf.pdf:
Bussman said:
Good day all,
I am back at my local Tesla Service Center to check on the persisting A/C issue after we replaced the bad fuse in the DC/DC converter.
Possibly news for some of you, Tesla has released a bulletin for the repair of DC/DC converter (two weeks ago), allowing the SC to refurbish the unit (replace the fuse) for more or less half the cost (labor+fuse/s) around €1400.
While, I do believe there is another issue with my A/C, which I really hope they identify now.
Also, I hope they don’t complain that we have worked in the DC/DC converter on our own.
Keep you posted.
I am back at my local Tesla Service Center to check on the persisting A/C issue after we replaced the bad fuse in the DC/DC converter.
Possibly news for some of you, Tesla has released a bulletin for the repair of DC/DC converter (two weeks ago), allowing the SC to refurbish the unit (replace the fuse) for more or less half the cost (labor+fuse/s) around €1400.
While, I do believe there is another issue with my A/C, which I really hope they identify now.
Also, I hope they don’t complain that we have worked in the DC/DC converter on our own.
Keep you posted.
Finally, got my car back with working A/C for now! 
For testing purposes SC installed all new parts (A/C compressor, A/C temp. control unit behind the touch screen and DC/DC converter) and started replacing the parts one by one with my original once.
So, after 8 hours of diagnostics at 130 euro/hour, they identified that the A/C temp. control unit was not working and had caused the fuse issue or at least this is the official story.
The SC were quite nice with me and found a middle ground on the total cost, we settled at around $1150 for the part and labor.
It would not have been very nice discussion, if they had installed new DC/DC unit at the beginning only to find-out that there is another unit responsible for the issue. Good thing I managed to exchange the DC/DC and saved over 3000 euro at that time (before the new bulletin, allowing Tesla SC to open and fix the DC/DC converter for 1.4K euro).
Thank you for your support! For sure I would encourage anyone with such problem to try fix the DC/DC converter on their own first.
Have a great summer all or winter.
For testing purposes SC installed all new parts (A/C compressor, A/C temp. control unit behind the touch screen and DC/DC converter) and started replacing the parts one by one with my original once.
So, after 8 hours of diagnostics at 130 euro/hour, they identified that the A/C temp. control unit was not working and had caused the fuse issue or at least this is the official story.
The SC were quite nice with me and found a middle ground on the total cost, we settled at around $1150 for the part and labor.
It would not have been very nice discussion, if they had installed new DC/DC unit at the beginning only to find-out that there is another unit responsible for the issue. Good thing I managed to exchange the DC/DC and saved over 3000 euro at that time (before the new bulletin, allowing Tesla SC to open and fix the DC/DC converter for 1.4K euro).
Thank you for your support! For sure I would encourage anyone with such problem to try fix the DC/DC converter on their own first.
Have a great summer all or winter.
Good Afternoon Sledom
Really excellent detail on this issue with the DC to DC Converter fuses. I have a Model S 85 2013 and need to replace the DC to DC convert fuse for the heat. I though while I am at it, I would replace the other two fuses and the heater core. Sorry to bother you with this but can you tell me if all the fuses are all the same in the converter. From the picture it looks like two are identical and the third one is maybe different,, a bit smaller. In the picture the fuse behind the front two large fuses is not legible. Can you let me know what type of fuse is in the back of the picture. Also I see the fuses were ordered from "Newark". I can't find the company on the net. Can you give me a full name of the company or an email address.
Thanks in advance !!
Can someone chime in. My A/C is fine but heater does not work. I've read through the thread. Could the fuse be my issue. If the fuse is a possibility does anyone know which fuse is for the heater and where can I get the fuse. Is it the 40 amp? I have a 2013 Model S (production 11/13) Thanks for any input.
There are 4 fuses in total in the DC/DC converter:
- Two 40 Amp fuses: one protects the DC/DC converter on the input side and one protects the AC compressor output.
- Two 20 Amp fuses: one for the battery heater and one for the cabin heater.
Since the fuse keeps burning, I suspect another problem, possibly one of the following:
- Aging MOSFET transistor in the DC/DC converter
- Aging capacitor in the DC/DC converter
- Insulation problem in AC compressor creating transient harmonics
- Change in battery thermal management (there has been many lately for older TMS)
This is the full name of part that got replaced, per invoice:
TESLA THERMAL CONTROLLER WITH LABEL (1034215-00-A)
Beyond that I did not ask for any further explanation, while thinking about it now, I should get the old Thermal Controller to play around with it.
Here is the part in the catalog:
https://epc.teslamotors.com/?_ga=2..../53867?partNumber=1034215-99-A&partId=6455169
Thank you for your
Thanks for your reply and explanation. There is a service bulletin on this issue. I spoke to someone at service center. She quoted me $300 plus the cost of any parts (fuse(s)). I was planning on doing this myself for my cabin heater but I think for $300 I will let them do it.
It is possible your cabin heater has failed and will blow the next fuse as well. You should have them test it before they just repair the DC-DC.
bumping swegman's post -- any link to the bulletin? My car is going out of warranty in a year.... I'm wondering if I should contemplate having the ac compressor and maybe the thermal control replaced proactively -- to avoid the dc-dc compressor failing (again). I'd like to do it myself after the warranty expires but can't seem to find any good instructions/videos...
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Hello Everyone,
Ive been reading this thread and I have a similar problem, my heat does not work, so after tearing apart the dash and getting the heater out, that I have 177 volts going to each terminal within the heater, does this mean that my DC/DC converter is still working and the heater just went out?. Will you have power at these terminals if the internal fuses are blown? Also what is the best way to turn off the high voltage in the car so I can take the terminals off the heater instead of replacing and routing the whole harness?
Ive been reading this thread and I have a similar problem, my heat does not work, so after tearing apart the dash and getting the heater out, that I have 177 volts going to each terminal within the heater, does this mean that my DC/DC converter is still working and the heater just went out?. Will you have power at these terminals if the internal fuses are blown? Also what is the best way to turn off the high voltage in the car so I can take the terminals off the heater instead of replacing and routing the whole harness?
Please post your result. I still have not fixed mine. I spoke to a Tech at the Service Center. He said probably the heater and fuse are blown. He said this is typical.
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