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The fuses that I need are for the DC-DC converter 2012 both 40 amp and 20 amp. Want my cake and eat it too! Fast delivery and a cheep price... I still don't know the part number for the 20 amp fuses. Trying to round up the parts before teardown.
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iamthewaughrus
Member
Did you ever find the part number for the 20 amp fuses? I am about to replace the 40 amp fuses and would like to have the 20s on hand just in case.
I didn't need them so I didn't go any further. I tested through the unit and it was working well. It ended up being the typical motor seal that allowed water coolant to enter. The motor seals aren't designed for pressure and pressure is present on acceleration. The new motor cost me over $6,000. Wish it was just the fuses.
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passhard
Member
In 4 year of Model S ownership I have booked 2 service calls for AC not blowing cold.
Each time it was kinda fixed..... last year we noticed it wood blow cold for the first 20 mins of a road trip and then it's like just room temp air coming out full blast.........
This year no cold air is coming out.
I so sick of Tesla service. Noting ever get fixed correctly
Each time it was kinda fixed..... last year we noticed it wood blow cold for the first 20 mins of a road trip and then it's like just room temp air coming out full blast.........
This year no cold air is coming out.
I so sick of Tesla service. Noting ever get fixed correctly
Hey Y'all. So my A/C is out and I've checked about everything. It's either the 40A fuse in the function box (2015 MS 70D) or the compressor itself I fear. A nice member shared a few extra fuses with me so I felt confident to start the process.
About midway, before ripping the box out, I decided to measure continuity on the compressor plug (orange) to some of the other components. Sure enough, it actually is NOT shorted between the DCDC (blue) or the Heater (brown) plugs so I am thinking this unit is fine and it's the compressor. It seems per the schematics and this video, the fuse is only blown IF there is no continuity on the orange plug with the other GR and + lines.
Can anyone confirm or deny? (Aka it's the compressor then and I'm shopping for more parts)...
Including a pic that shows my GR in the blue plug directly on the FJunction Box (on the unit, I'm not a full moron that would measure the wires I just).
Since y'all have more exp than me, wanted to get your take before I pay someone to look at it or just order a compressor...
About midway, before ripping the box out, I decided to measure continuity on the compressor plug (orange) to some of the other components. Sure enough, it actually is NOT shorted between the DCDC (blue) or the Heater (brown) plugs so I am thinking this unit is fine and it's the compressor. It seems per the schematics and this video, the fuse is only blown IF there is no continuity on the orange plug with the other GR and + lines.
Can anyone confirm or deny? (Aka it's the compressor then and I'm shopping for more parts)...
Including a pic that shows my GR in the blue plug directly on the FJunction Box (on the unit, I'm not a full moron that would measure the wires I just).
Since y'all have more exp than me, wanted to get your take before I pay someone to look at it or just order a compressor...
Here's the YT video of the fix too, where the guys checks continuity... Skip to 10:58
Tesla AC not working - DIY Fix:
Tesla AC not working - DIY Fix:
Open to the main battery as I killed the loop but as each is supplied by the main 400v system, they should be on the same circuit if the fuses haven't blown (as that power needs to be distributed to each). It makes sense to me but I'm a mech, not an EE so figured I'd post my theory to see what others might say. I never went full bore into the box but maybe I should still? It just seems power is going there already.
Maybe (and this sounds a bit more risky) pull that plug out and test if there is 400v on it? While the car is on and live? It's just one plug and I'm pretty shielded but would rather not kill myself too
Don't do that. Never dick with 400v.
Check continuity on the -compressor-. (With at least orange wire disconnected) It should be close to zero. Chances are small that this is the problem.
Then check continuity from either compressor HV contact to ground with a megaohm meter with -both- orange wires off. If you get anything less than 2MO it is a contaminated system, as I'd told you offline.
If this latter you don't have to replace all A/C components as Tesla says. I'd fixed mine with a good bit of work.
Check continuity on the -compressor-. (With at least orange wire disconnected) It should be close to zero. Chances are small that this is the problem.
Then check continuity from either compressor HV contact to ground with a megaohm meter with -both- orange wires off. If you get anything less than 2MO it is a contaminated system, as I'd told you offline.
If this latter you don't have to replace all A/C components as Tesla says. I'd fixed mine with a good bit of work.
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asavage
Member
That won't work. I've spent considerable time on the GEN1 stuff -- which is previous to your 2015 and therefore not an exact analogue -- and the AC Compressor and cabin heater HET plugs (the plugs from their harnesses to the DC-DC Converter) have HVIL loopbacks built-in to the connectors, so that when you unplug them the HVIL loop is broken, the BMS throws an error and refuses to close the main contactors and bring up HV.Maybe (and this sounds a bit more risky) pull that plug out and test if there is 400v on it? While the car is on and live?
[To be clear, the HVIL loop doesn't travel the AC Compressor harness, only its plug. Still, as soon as you disconnect it from the DC-DC Converter, you won't find HV behind it.]
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For more information on the early Model S HVIL, see the SB-10052449-4313_HVIL_Diagnostic_Guide:
service.tesla.com has free access to the vehicle schematics including HVIL loop, though it also apprears to show only one HVJB switch.
asavage
Member
I can only speak to the GEN1 Rear HVJB (2012-late 2013), which has only one HVIL cover reed switch (which itself had a non-insignificant failure rate; see the Tesla SB PDF linked above that mentions it). I wrote a Wiki article for the GEN1 Rear HVJB, which includes several pictures, and I have one on my shelf here -- though it's now up for sale at eBay, as I acquired it specifically to investigate/document it and now have no use for it.
I have no knowledge of the HVIL loop on the GEN2 Rear HVJB (late 2013-???).
I have no knowledge of the HVIL loop on the GEN2 Rear HVJB (late 2013-???).
Just to report back... it was some fuses NOT in the HVJB after all. The wires were loose under the fuse box 2. AC is blowing cold now!
Hi guys. I’ve read through this entire thread with interest as my 2017 75D heater has stopped working. Having had big quotes from Tesla I thought I’d have a go myself. The actual heater doesn’t seem too difficult but where on earth do I find this 40A fuse? I think I have a gen 3 DC to DC converter and I can find loads of videos of the gen 1 (wheel arch) removal but absolutely nothing on the Gen 3 one!
Rather than referring to the manual (which I can’t find it in) can someone tell me in plain English (video would be excellent!) where this fuse is located and how I get to it from above (no ramp). I’m pulling my hair out!
Thanks all
Rather than referring to the manual (which I can’t find it in) can someone tell me in plain English (video would be excellent!) where this fuse is located and how I get to it from above (no ramp). I’m pulling my hair out!
Thanks all
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
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