Evoforce
Active Member
Are you talking about the DC-AC motor inverter or the DC-DC converter?So the newer models (2014 and up) these fuses are not replaceable without removing the battery?
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Are you talking about the DC-AC motor inverter or the DC-DC converter?So the newer models (2014 and up) these fuses are not replaceable without removing the battery?
I'm looking for gen 1 and the part number for the 20 amp smaller fuses.
Dc dcAre you talking about the DC-AC motor inverter or the DC-DC converter?
Did you ever find the part number for the 20 amp fuses? I am about to replace the 40 amp fuses and would like to have the 20s on hand just in case.The fuses that I need are for the DC-DC converter 2012 both 40 amp and 20 amp. Want my cake and eat it too! Fast delivery and a cheep price... I still don't know the part number for the 20 amp fuses. Trying to round up the parts before teardown.
I didn't need them so I didn't go any further. I tested through the unit and it was working well. It ended up being the typical motor seal that allowed water coolant to enter. The motor seals aren't designed for pressure and pressure is present on acceleration. The new motor cost me over $6,000. Wish it was just the fuses.Did you ever find the part number for the 20 amp fuses? I am about to replace the 40 amp fuses and would like to have the 20s on hand just in case.
Tagging @DavidP85 as he's been helping me a bitHey Y'all. So my A/C is out and I've checked about everything. It's either the 40A fuse in the function box (2015 MS 70D) or the compressor itself I fear. A nice member shared a few extra fuses with me so I felt confident to start the process.
About midway, before ripping the box out, I decided to measure continuity on the compressor plug (orange) to some of the other components. Sure enough, it actually is NOT shorted between the DCDC (blue) or the Heater (brown) plugs so I am thinking this unit is fine and it's the compressor. It seems per the schematics and this video, the fuse is only blown IF there is no continuity on the orange plug with the other GR and + lines.
Can anyone confirm or deny? (Aka it's the compressor then and I'm shopping for more parts)...
Including a pic that shows my GR in the blue plug directly on the FJunction Box (on the unit, I'm not a full moron that would measure the wires I just).
Since y'all have more exp than me, wanted to get your take before I pay someone to look at it or just order a compressor...View attachment 938989
I did not do this test but it’s giving me a headache. Why would we expect the circuit to show continuity between different loads with a blown fuse? The idea puzzles me… shouldn’t they be reading as open?Tagging @DavidP85 as he's been helping me a bit
Open to the main battery as I killed the loop but as each is supplied by the main 400v system, they should be on the same circuit if the fuses haven't blown (as that power needs to be distributed to each). It makes sense to me but I'm a mech, not an EE so figured I'd post my theory to see what others might say. I never went full bore into the box but maybe I should still? It just seems power is going there already.I did not do this test but it’s giving me a headache. Why would we expect the circuit to show continuity between different loads with a blown fuse? The idea puzzles me… shouldn’t they be reading as open?
That won't work. I've spent considerable time on the GEN1 stuff -- which is previous to your 2015 and therefore not an exact analogue -- and the AC Compressor and cabin heater HET plugs (the plugs from their harnesses to the DC-DC Converter) have HVIL loopbacks built-in to the connectors, so that when you unplug them the HVIL loop is broken, the BMS throws an error and refuses to close the main contactors and bring up HV.Maybe (and this sounds a bit more risky) pull that plug out and test if there is 400v on it? While the car is on and live?