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Decreasing rated range.

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Forgot to check. I have heard that this number is more reliable indicator of battery capacity, but is otherwise useless. I did achieve these numbers after a seemingly effective balancing session the previous night (left the car all night at 100% charge). This was with a warm battery from a drive from my house to the Mauston supercharger.

If you wouldn't mind checking next time you do a full charge I would appreciate it.
 
You're doing fairly well. Judging by your VIN I'd wager a guess that you have a B pack. Also interesting is that you had not performed a range charge in quite some time. This suggests that the pack was most likely slightly out of balance, and yet you zoomed right up to 256 on the first try. I've repeatedly clocked in at 244-245 miles with between 22-25 K on the odo. Mine still has an A...

I do have a B pack. I likely have not done a range change since July.
 
I'm one of those who has noticed a drop in Rated Range, but I'm wondering if this is being "made up for" on the other end with better than expected efficiency. I've been seeing efficiency numbers almost too good to be true. For example, yesterday on my 54 mile return commute, I was driving uncharacteristicly fast (75 - 85 MPH) in temperatures around 45 F and was still seeing 273 Wh/mi (239 Wh/mi on the last 30 miles). And this is on winter tires. The route is pretty much flat with about 75% freeway and the rest city streets. I had the heat on, the car was not in Range Mode and I did not pre-heat the car before leaving:

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IMG_1746.JPG
 
@mknox: Unknown tailwinds? Newfangled firmware?--

I don't think so. I've been getting consistently "good" efficiency numbers for a while now. I drove about 125 miles to a rental property I own in horrible conditions. Temperatures around 5 F, snowsqualls and snow-packed roads most of the way. Hilly terrain. Even with generous use of the heat, I got around 330 Wh/mi on that trip. That's less than 10% above "Rated" in some pretty bad conditions. The only other factor could be my winter tires. Usually, winter tires aren't as efficient, but maybe the Nokian Hakka R2s are even better than my 19" summer tires???

This thread just got me wondering if the same algorithm that seems to be knocking down my Rated Range numbers might be making up for it on the back end somehow. In other words my lower rated number + my higher efficiency numbers means I really am still getting the promised range.
 
You're doing fairly well. Judging by your VIN I'd wager a guess that you have a B pack. Also interesting is that you had not performed a range charge in quite some time. This suggests that the pack was most likely slightly out of balance, and yet you zoomed right up to 256 on the first try. I've repeatedly clocked in at 244-245 miles with between 22-25 K on the odo. Mine still has an A...

I only charge to 50% most of the time, usually drive in the 40%-70% SOC range. I max charged one and only time after six months of ownership and 6,000 miles. My first and only max charge registered at 301 miles of ideal range. I was able to drive 15 miles at 75 MPH in 80 degree temps on flat grade before the range display dropped to 300. So does my battery go to 315 miles even though the display shows 301? Weird.

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I guess the key takeaway from your stats is the bit about "not being shy about range charging". That must be the trick. While everyone and their mother recommend not doing so often to preserve long term battery life, it's probably the only way to consistently get full rated range.

By charging to 100% and driving to below 20%, you are teaching the car where the actual endpoints are for your battery. That helps the algorithm better estimate your range based on SOC. If you never charge to 100% and don't stretch your battery's legs fully, the algorithm can only estimate where those endpoints are. That estimate, by all accounts, drifts more and more out of sync the longer you drive using a narrow range of your battery's charge. This would explain why I was able to drive 15 miles but use only 1 ideal mile after charging to 100%. I'd never charged to 100% before, so even though my display showed 301 ideal miles, I actually got 315 ideal miles because I could drive 15 miles while the range display dropped by only 1 mile. This points to the algorithm being unable to properly estimate my full charge since I had never done it until that one time.

However, the fact remains that max charging frequently and driving to low states of charge will have a negative impact on your battery's long term life. It's my belief that owners are drawing a false conclusion that max charging is recovering range. It's not. It is simply telling the car where the maximum and minimum states of charge exist, which is why people who use the full range of their battery regularly are seeing higher range estimates. Max charging just to make the display show you a higher number - if you don't need the range - is negatively impacting the long term life of your pack. Tesla does not warrant range loss due to battery pack usage, so please be careful when doing anything to your battery that Tesla specifically warns against (i.e., max charging).
 
I was surprised the other day when my wife came home with a 253 Wh/mi average from a trip (unheard of near us given the small-town-every-5-miles-along-the-2-lane-highway rural area we live in), because my car's lifetime is 362 Wh/mi over 20,000 miles. I made some changes (19" wheels instead of 21" in October), and the service center found my louvers weren't operating correctly when my battery pack was replaced and they were repaired.

There are a lot of variables but I intend to see where the spring and summer takes us in terms of efficiency.
 
Our car is in for our first annual service today. I asked my service manager about the decreasing rated range. He said our battery checked out just fine, but to restore the rated range, here are the EXACT steps we should follow. I walked through the steps with him on the phone twice to confirm. This is directly from my service manager at the Santa Monica service center:

1. Charge to 100%. Let charging cycle complete.
2. Unplug.
3. Let the car sit for 20-30 minutes, up to a few hours.
4. Drive the car down to 20% SOC. This doesn't have to be immediately, it can be over a few days of use.
5. Once 20% SOC is reached, let the car sit for at least 20-30 minutes.
6. Plug back in and charge to 90% (or 100% if you need the range).
7. Repeat every few months, unless you charge to 100% regularly otherwise.

That's it! Done and done.
 
I only charge to 50% most of the time, usually drive in the 40%-70% SOC range. I max charged one and only time after six months of ownership and 6,000 miles. My first and only max charge registered at 301 miles of ideal range. I was able to drive 15 miles at 75 MPH in 80 degree temps on flat grade before the range display dropped to 300. So does my battery go to 315 miles even though the display shows 301? Weird.

- - - Updated - - -



By charging to 100% and driving to below 20%, you are teaching the car where the actual endpoints are for your battery. That helps the algorithm better estimate your range based on SOC. If you never charge to 100% and don't stretch your battery's legs fully, the algorithm can only estimate where those endpoints are. That estimate, by all accounts, drifts more and more out of sync the longer you drive using a narrow range of your battery's charge. This would explain why I was able to drive 15 miles but use only 1 ideal mile after charging to 100%. I'd never charged to 100% before, so even though my display showed 301 ideal miles, I actually got 315 ideal miles because I could drive 15 miles while the range display dropped by only 1 mile. This points to the algorithm being unable to properly estimate my full charge since I had never done it until that one time.

However, the fact remains that max charging frequently and driving to low states of charge will have a negative impact on your battery's long term life. It's my belief that owners are drawing a false conclusion that max charging is recovering range. It's not. It is simply telling the car where the maximum and minimum states of charge exist, which is why people who use the full range of their battery regularly are seeing higher range estimates. Max charging just to make the display show you a higher number - if you don't need the range - is negatively impacting the long term life of your pack. Tesla does not warrant range loss due to battery pack usage, so please be careful when doing anything to your battery that Tesla specifically warns against (i.e., max charging).

Excellent explanation and duly noted.
 
Funny thing... 90% isn't 90%. When I charge to 90% I get 350 km rated. When I charge to 100%, I get 400 km rated. (This is 100% repeatable.)

It's seems 90% is really 87.5%, tic marks notwithstanding.

Also of note: The reported 100% Range of my vehicle dropped from 424 km to 400 km during the first year of operation. However, I have not seen any further decline in reported range throughout this winter. I've heard that the chemistry being used tends to drop a bit at first then level off for a long time. So far that is looking to be confirmed.