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Definitive S Refresh Front Plate Bracket Removal

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Why couldn't you just use dental floss or fishing line to cut through the tape? The same way you would take badging off.
I should be getting mine in the next few weeks, I don't like the idea of just pulling it off, I will try both.

Dental floss probably isn't strong enough. Fishing line might work. The adhesive is really tough though, the fishing line might cut through your fingers before it cuts through the adhesive. Stretching it out by prying the plate out a little helps a lot. But if you're doing that you don't have another two hands free to "floss" the adhesive unless you get a helper. Still think a plastic knife is easiest, the teeth help saw through real quick.
 
Excellent information Zero! Took me less than a half hour start to finish. Pulling the bracket off the painted surface was the creepiest part for me :eek:. About half the double-stick tape came off on the mounting plate and the other half remained on the car. I used a slow/gradual pull and roll up method for the tape that remained on the car. I was able to get the tape off completely without the need for goo-gone or any sort of solution. I did use my heat gun to heat the bracket before I pulled it off the car. I'm not certain if that was necessary though.
 
Excellent information Zero! Took me less than a half hour start to finish. Pulling the bracket off the painted surface was the creepiest part for me :eek:. About half the double-stick tape came off on the mounting plate and the other half remained on the car. I used a slow/gradual pull and roll up method for the tape that remained on the car. I was able to get the tape off completely without the need for goo-gone or any sort of solution. I did use my heat gun to heat the bracket before I pulled it off the car. I'm not certain if that was necessary though.

Glad it was helpful, congrats!
 
For anyone having an urge to reattach the holder, this from McMaster-Carr...

bolt.JPG
 
I finally removed mine yesterday without any tools other than a screwdriver and hair drier, and it was a piece of cake. I first removed the outer plate holder from the block on the front of the bumper by removing the screws attached to the block glued to the front of the bumper. After removing the horizontal screws, the mount droops down so that it is suspended by the two vertical safety screws under the bumper. The license plate mount is made from a flexible vinyl-like substance. I simultaneously pulled down on the mount both behind the safety screws and in front of the safety screws, and the mount popped right off . The screws pulled through the holes in the mount because the mount material is very flexible. The mount was totally undamaged, and could easily be reinstalled.

I then heated the block glued to the front of the bumper, and pulled it off by lifting the top right corner and pulling out and down. No prying mechanism is needed other than your fingers. Finally, using my thumb, I removed the residual glue on the bumper by starting at one end and rolling it up on itself.

All in all, it took less than five minutes and was easy peasy.
 
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I finally removed mine yesterday without any tools other than a screwdriver and hair drier, and it was a piece of cake. I first removed the outer plate holder from the block on the front of the bumper by removing the screws attached to the block glued to the front of the bumper. After removing the horizontal screws, the mount droops down so that it is suspended by the two vertical safety screws under the bumper. The license plate mount is made from a flexible vinyl-like substance. I simultaneously pulled down on the mount both behind the safety screws and in front of the safety screws, and the mount popped right off . The screws pulled through the holes in the mount because the mount material is very flexible. The mount was totally undamaged, and could easily be reinstalled.

I then heated the block glued to the front of the bumper, and pulled it off by lifting the top right corner and pulling out and down. No prying mechanism is needed other than your fingers. Finally, using my thumb, I removed the residual glue on the bumper by starting at one end and rolling it up on itself.

All in all, it took less than five minutes and was easy peasy.

Great to hear. I pick up my car today and this will be what I do as soon as I get home.
 
I was able to remove the front plate bracket by removing the 2 screws at the gallery when I picked up my 90D -- they were happy to hand me the tool -- and when I got home I simply applied steady pressure, pulling from the top down. I was able to watch the double-sided tape slowly pull away from the facia and stay attached to the bracket. There were a few spots on the facia where the residue remained but I removed that with WD-40 and a soft cotton cloth. I did not use a heat gun or floss or fishing line. Just a slow, steady pressure was sufficient. Whole process took, maybe, 20 minutes.
 
Got this done in about 15 minutes. Taking off the bolts was really easy - it's almost as if they were only hand-tight. The challenge is removing the backing that is attached to the bumper.

First, I tried just pulling it off and it wouldn't budge. Then I tried fishing line but that didn't do it either (broke the line). Finally, I pulled out the heat gun and heated it up. I was then able to pull from the upper right corner, as recommended earlier, and slowly pull it from the bumper. Only a little bit of the adhesive remained and I was able to roll that off with my fingers. A little glue remained and I took that off with Goo-Gone.
 
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Since I split my time between Nevada (where the front plate is not required) and Wyoming (where the front plate is required) I needed a simple way to reattach & remove the front plate bracket. I replaced the OEM torx bolts with standard M6 metric bolts so I can use a Phillips head screwdriver to reattach the front bracket. But the bolts aren't enough to stabilize the bracket. There's a reason Tesla glues the bracket to the front facia. So I picked up a set of 3M picture hanging strips and attached these to the top of the front bracket. These were sufficient to stabilize the bracket and prevent it from wobbling -- even at 70 mph -- and the adhesive from the strips is easy to remove from the facia. Now it's easy on / easy off. Problem solved.
 

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I removed mine last night. The 11/32 socket didn't do much for me, but the 90" pliers did the job, albeit slowly. Once you're about half way, you can remove the screws by hand. I really don't know why Tesla oped to use such a funky fitting; I get they need to satisfy various State requirements, but do any of those requirements specify an anti-tamper screw? I used a broad plastic trim pry bar to work the VHB tape away from the bumper, all in, it took maybe 10 minutes. It came away easily, but it had been parked out side for a couple of hours in 100f+ heat, so that probably helped.
 

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