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I make my own with the bare cables from Tesla CAN Diagnostic Cable (Sept 2015 and up) – Bare Wire – Maxwell Automotive Technologies - but I think their normal diag -> OBD-II will work fine. The only issue is that most devices other than the comma.ai white panda only support 1 bus at at a time, so ymmv. I split the CAN busses out to diff devices, so I prefer to just crimp/attach my own OBD-II connectors.
Thank you @rhuber
Is this their “normal diag” cable?

 
I make my own with the bare cables from Tesla CAN Diagnostic Cable (Sept 2015 and up) – Bare Wire – Maxwell Automotive Technologies - but I think their normal diag -> OBD-II will work fine. The only issue is that most devices other than the comma.ai white panda only support 1 bus at at a time, so ymmv. I split the CAN busses out to diff devices, so I prefer to just crimp/attach my own OBD-II connectors.
Oh and I was asking how hard it was to access the port under the phone charger. Do you have recommendations on how to safely remove/lift the panels?
 
Yep, that's the one.
Oh and I was asking how hard it was to access the port under the phone charger. Do you have recommendations on how to safely remove/lift the panels?
Ah they are just snap fit. The snaps are metal and good quality, so they shouldn't break easily at all. you basically pull up on the phone dock from the bottom, and pull it toward yourself once it unsnaps a bit.

Then there is a piece above it that you need to pull down, also good quality snaps, so it will feel like you might break it, but it is sturdy. Once the cable was plugged in, I put everything back and the ribbon is now coming out the side and into my glove box.

(I used the service manual as a reference here, but obv can't republish those photos.)
 
Yep, that's the one.

Ah they are just snap fit. The snaps are metal and good quality, so they shouldn't break easily at all. you basically pull up on the phone dock from the bottom, and pull it toward yourself once it unsnaps a bit.

Then there is a piece above it that you need to pull down, also good quality snaps, so it will feel like you might break it, but it is sturdy. Once the cable was plugged in, I put everything back and the ribbon is now coming out the side and into my glove box.

(I used the service manual as a reference here, but obv can't republish those photos.)
Thank you very much @rhuber appreciate all the details!
 
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Actually, upon further review, you may want to hold off on that cable if you want plug and play with the apps. It appears that cable would place the vehicle bus on OBD-II pins 12 and 13, so if you are using a bluetooth or most single CAN bus devices, you it probably won't be wired the way you want.
Hmm good to know, thanks. Do you have a pin layout that will work with an off-the-shelf BT device, such as OBDLink or Konwei, and apps such as ScanMyTesla or TM-Spy?
 
Hmm good to know, thanks. Do you have a pin layout that will work with an off-the-shelf BT device, such as OBDLink or Konwei, and apps such as ScanMyTesla or TM-Spy?
It appears that the Vehicle bus is on pins 9 and 10 on the Tesla connector, with pin 9 being CAN high and 10 being low. Those need to be wired to pins 6 and 14 to use most accessories that work with the various apps. I moved the pins around and can confirm I'm getting useful data from Tes*lax

Edit: I'm using the signal profile for 2021 Model 3/Y in the app.
 

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It appears that the Vehicle bus is on pins 9 and 10 on the Tesla connector, with pin 9 being CAN high and 10 being low. Those need to be wired to pins 6 and 14 to use most accessories that work with the various apps. I moved the pins around and can confirm I'm getting useful data from Tes*lax

Edit: I'm using the signal profile for 2021 Model 3/Y in the app.
Thanks again @rhuber

I wonder if @amund7 is monitoring this thread?
 
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Thanks again @rhuber

I wonder if @amund7 is monitoring this thread?

Yes

If you want a pinout for a Plaid Model S, I can't help you as I have never seen one, but very excited to see how the app works on one. Of course we will be missing 1 motor best case scenario. I see teslaX works with Model 3 selected, Scan My Tesla should too. That's pretty interesting already, that must mean they changed all the electronics (at least those that work with the apps in Model 3 mode), bus layouts, inverters BMS HVAC MCU ++++ over to Model 3/Y tech, which should be huge news in itself.

I hope the HVAC system and heat pump stuff is similar to 3/Y too, and that someone can discover some of that CAN data.
 
Yes

If you want a pinout for a Plaid Model S, I can't help you as I have never seen one, but very excited to see how the app works on one. Of course we will be missing 1 motor best case scenario. I see teslaX works with Model 3 selected, Scan My Tesla should too. That's pretty interesting already, that must mean they changed all the electronics (at least those that work with the apps in Model 3 mode), bus layouts, inverters BMS HVAC MCU ++++ over to Model 3/Y tech, which should be huge news in itself.

I hope the HVAC system and heat pump stuff is similar to 3/Y too, and that someone can discover some of that CAN data.
Awesome, that's a great starting point.

So between you and @rhuber I'm hoping I can build a cable that works with SMT.

Is it as simple as wiring the two power pins (+12V and ground) and two CAN pins (high and low) to the correct slots?

cc @JWardell
 
Awesome, that's a great starting point.

So between you and @rhuber I'm hoping I can build a cable that works with SMT.

Is it as simple as wiring the two power pins (+12V and ground) and two CAN pins (high and low) to the correct slots?

cc @JWardell

Pretty much. It seems to me all the busses are in the right place for the maxwell OBD adapter, but perhaps they swapped some of the busses, and of course what you see on each bus is different. Less of an issue if you have something that supports multiple bus logging (cough).
Pouring through the data and working with everyone so hopefully SMT and TesLax has Plaid support very soon. Finding those motors is going to take some sluething like the old days though! Stay tuned.
 
TesLAX is designed to be car agnostic, so as we learn more about the signals in play for the Plaid, users can update the signals manually. Once we settle on a DBC for Plaid, I can bundle a new preset. I’m hearing the model 3/Y preset works pretty well for most things but of course we’ll need to update for that 3rd motor.

In the mean time, tesLAX’s “extra strength” features give ability to create and edit signals and import DBCs. This can get us most of the way temporarily until we’ve got all the signals figured out and I bundle a new preset. Also “extra strength” users can export and share their presets with other users, so if someone gets a nice setup for Plaid, please do share it!