Yes, that's correct. However, now that I have done it once I'd say it's not a big deal. Just follow this thread: Dash Removal I could probably disassemble it in 45 mins or so next time around. You remove (in this order) the trim at the bottom of the door openings (velcro), the instrument panel trim on the sides (vents and below, mix of screws and plastic and metal push pins), the instrument cluster and steering column trim (a few philips screws), the center trim (by the radio), and then the dash top cover. The clips for the airbag cover break when you pull it off and will need to be removed. New clips can be purchased from Tesla Once that is done the switchpack sits behind the instrument panel, held in with two screws. it has a bunch of plugs on both ends (left and right). The general logic is simple: for most functions, there is (1) An input line (12V from the fuse box) (2) A trigger (+12 V) (3) An output (connects to the input when trigger is active) The switchpack has some logic built in to test if the loads are working (e.g. if the headlights are drawing the right amount of current), and if not it sends error messages over the CAN bus I'm attaching the schematic The relevant wires for the indicators are: - Inputs: FHC22-1 (top left in the diagram, a three-row plug on the right hand side with lots of thin wires) - Triggers: FHC22-16+17 (bottom left in the diagram) - Outputs: FHC21-14 and FHC22-2,7,8 (right hand side in the diagram, I don't remember which one FHC21 is, you'll need to guess by the colors and number of wires) Assuming these all behave as they should (ie all indicators work), a simple solution could be to attach a standard automotive relay to each output (without any load on it) and stow it away behind the instrument panel/under the dash. The clicking sound of the relay would be clearly audible in the cabin. The attachment could be done with T-Taps or some careful soldering and the relays installed with double sided tape - that arrangement could be easily reversed in the future with minimal traces. In my case I had a few other random/sporadic errors that appeared to be connected (SRS/Airbag fault, right window down would not work on occasion, an ABS error) - so I treated all the plugs with DeOxit and those issues simply went away
The low beams are not normally disconnected when the highs are triggered. At least visually - not sure how it may be done electronically.
This is very helpful. would there be a way to achieve that if you briefly push the direction indicator lever, it clicks (and indicates) three times. Like in modern cars?
there are generic kits you can retrofit with or depending on whose parts bin Tesla/Lotus raided for the signal wiring, there could be vehicle specific kits
Thanks Drew. I have to look into it because I also plan to combine the blinking and braking as well as running lights in each of the lamps in the three lenses. And make the blinking sequential. sounds complicated but must be cool IMO. this does not seem compatible with the generic ones.
this shouldn’t be too hard. Once you remove the dash and have the switch pack in front of you it’s easy to locate +12V, turn signal trigger, and GND wires. All the electronics would need to do it is if the trigger is released quickly hold the output high for a few seconds. Otherwise send it straight thorough. I haven’t looked at the generic kits but I imagine that’s how they do it. If you have a link to a kit I’ll gladly take a look to see how you’d wire it in