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direction indicator sound

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Personally, I don't think the clicking sound is loud enough (no, I'm not deaf - yet).

I think this could be something Tesla could easily address simply by giving the driver the ability to adjust the volume to the desired level in the software.

Or, they could take it a step further and let you choose the tone or a theme like fart sounds, bullets firing or, for basketball lovers, the sound of a basketball bouncing on a court! ;) I'm sure that such things could never happen (legally) but you have to agree that the possibilities are endless, right?

Seriously, the amount of times I have accidentally left the blinker on is ridiculous! :(
 
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Personally, I don't think the clicking sound is loud enough (no, I'm not deaf - yet).

I think this could be something Tesla could easily address simply by giving the driver the ability to adjust the volume to the desired level in the software.

Or, they could take it a step further and let you choose the tone or a theme like fart sounds, bullets firing or, for basketball lovers, the sound of a basketball bouncing on a court! ;) I'm sure that such things could never happen (legally) but you have to agree that the possibilities are endless, right?

Seriously, the amount of times I have accidentally left the blinker on is ridiculous! :(

no issues here; mine is loud and I'm hard of hearing, 40% loss in my left and 30% in my right. Click is very noticeable, just as loud as a ice car if not louder.

Perhaps it's the type of car; what year and model do you have? Perhaps something is wrong; did you ever notice it was louder in the past now it's more faint? Maybe the Service center can diagnose this for you.

Mine is a 2011 sport 2.5
 
I expect that the sound should come through the loudspeakers and since also my handsfree microphone is not up to its task, I will have the SC look at the audio system when the car is in for its annual service in a couple of weeks. Hopefully they can both explain and fix it.

Mine is a 2012 sport 2.5
 
Update: The service center was not able to diagnose the error on the first try. They need further diagnosis involving dash removal which we for various reasons agreed not to proceed with now. Their hypotheses for the source of the error were a speaker, the switch pack or the instrument cluster. I find the switch-pack hypothesis particularly appealing as I also have problems with charging of the 12-V battery which I believe can be attributed to the switch pack.
 
Yes, probably. However, the 12-V charging which I think also is controlled by the switchpack doesn't work (4.8 V at the fuse) and I do have a spare switchpack from a salvaged car. Therefore, if and when I have learned more about how the car works, verified somehow that the salvaged part is in order and summoned sufficient courage, I will consider doing it myself. It might take a while.
 
Yes, probably. However, the 12-V charging which I think also is controlled by the switchpack doesn't work (4.8 V at the fuse) and I do have a spare switchpack from a salvaged car. Therefore, if and when I have learned more about how the car works, verified somehow that the salvaged part is in order and summoned sufficient courage, I will consider doing it myself. It might take a while.

I believe the switchpack has to have the same firmware in it to work in a swap. Otherwise you will get a mismatch error. And yes, the 12V charge current does come from it.
 
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I had a switch pack issue myself for the last six months - hi beams would not work and I would get a “check bulb” error. Tested wiring ask the way back to the switch pack and all was well.

I ended up disconnecting the relevant wires (Feeds from fuse box, outputs to the lights, and trigger wire) at the switch pack and wiring in a couple of relays instead - that worked like a charm.

Only issue was that it would throw an error message if hi and low are engaged at the same time - I imagine the switch pack normally disconnects the lows when highs are triggered, so I wired in a third relay to turn off the lows when the highs are triggered.

happy to provide more details / wiring sketch if it’s helpful to someone.

I’m hoping one day there will be someone smarter than me who figures out how to repair switch packs. Until then a handful of relays will hopefully tide me over.