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Disc brake significant grooves - performance only?

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So, I’ve read multiple issues online but I think I have SIGNIFICANT grooves on my discs.
I popped into Leeds SC yesterday just to ask. They didn’t assess the car, but the lovely lady said “do you have a performance with red brake callipers”. Apparently it’s a currently rising issue, and they’re currently preparing a case study with brembo.
Advised to book a service and upload pictures then await to hear something.
I’ve attached the pictures. My car was delivered 28/03/2020, I’ve done 6,800 mile so definitely not something I’d expect to be normal in that time frame
 

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That definitely doesn't look right. In the first picture is seems as though the pad is only wiping the inner part of the disk and the outer part is pitted with corrosion. Im struggling to think what would cause that - either the caliper is not in the same plane with the disk, paf backplates are uneven, or problems with the caliper pistons.

You could try burnishing the pad / disk by redoing the bedding in process - see this from www.brakeperformance.com:

  • Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
  • Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
  • The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
  • You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
  • Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.
 
I have always thought that performance oriented EV’s are the ideal place for the tungsten carbide intermediate brakes that Porsche came out with. I cant remember what the call it but my boss had it on his Cayenne Turbo, super shiny disks that never rust due to the coating and then an intermediate ceramic pad to cope with the disk hardness.

They have limited life on an ICE car as the coating is only about 0.3mm thick but on an EV they would last forever and always look like new. They are about £2k uplift on a Porsche as opposed to 6k for ceramics and that’s the kind of thing that would make the performance price uplift start to have some genuine value to it.
 
Mine are also the same as the OP. I have done all the high speed braking etc.
I have now set my M3P to the lower regen setting so that I have to use them. After two weeks they are less rusty, but obviously still grooved on the rears.
 
I checked our VIN on Tesla recall website and we are not affected. We are certainly in the affected time frame and it seems to be more than just Performance models, so good that we are not included but. whilst a while since I last looked, we did have a similar issue from new after which Tesla rebuilt our brakes but not sure what this involved.
 
So, I’ve read multiple issues online but I think I have SIGNIFICANT grooves on my discs.
I popped into Leeds SC yesterday just to ask. They didn’t assess the car, but the lovely lady said “do you have a performance with red brake callipers”. Apparently it’s a currently rising issue, and they’re currently preparing a case study with brembo.
Advised to book a service and upload pictures then await to hear something.
I’ve attached the pictures. My car was delivered 28/03/2020, I’ve done 6,800 mile so definitely not something I’d expect to be normal in that time frame
Interesting, I noticed this in a lot of the photos of used P's, say on Autotraders, these heavy grooved discs...
 
I posted what I did to correct this in another section of the forum. I tried using hard braking over a few months but it did not work.

Came up with another solution posted below. It will be interesting to see if it happens again with regen now on low.


 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: Adopado
I posted what I did to correct this in another section of the forum. I tried using hard braking over a few months but it did not work.

Came up with another solution posted below. It will be interesting to see if it happens again with regen now on low.



It will be interesting to see if they quickly return to the grooved condition or if they maintain the smooth surface.
 
It will be interesting to see if they quickly return to the grooved condition or if they maintain the smooth surface.
They will reappear if you don't change the driving settings or deal with the moisture that causes them to rust. Also, I think the software change Tesla made the end of 2019 for true "one pedal" driving made the rust worse if you use this feature.

A few things we can try.

-Be sure to dry the brakes after washing the car. Either a short drive in track mode with no regen or they have high velocity blowers to blow out the water on each rotor/caliper.
-Make sure you occasionally set regen to low.
-Possibly do not use the hold mode (one pedal). Tesla says this increases low speed regen and reduces brake wear.

I wash my car quite a bit so I am going to make sure to do the first one after washing. I will also set regen to low occasionally. Likely when it has recently rained or is raining.

Funny how this wonderful feature of regen and one pedal driving has caused this problem. I am sure if this was an ICE car with no regen the brakes would be fine.