Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Discount Tire TMPS

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
My experience....

New aftermarket TPMS won't read...how to fix?

TL;DR - make sure they used 433mhz sensors. The dual frequency sensors don't work in our cars.

I have programmed over 50 sets of dual-frequency Autel sensors for Models S/X/3, and they work fine. For the Model S specifically, you have to know which receiver system is installed in the vehicle and program the sensors accordingly. This is done by VIN number. In some cases, older VINs which use the Gen 1 system have been retrofitted with the Gen 2 system, which requires programming as if they were a Gen 2 vehicle. Also in the Model S, the MCU software can be told what receiver system to expect which may not be the actual system that's installed if a mistake is made. This will make the system not work at all, as you found out in your other thread.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: kelly
I have programmed over 50 sets of dual-frequency Autel sensors for Models S/X/3, and they work fine. For the Model S specifically, you have to know which receiver system is installed in the vehicle and program the sensors accordingly. This is done by VIN number. In some cases, older VINs which use the Gen 1 system have been retrofitted with the Gen 2 system, which requires programming as if they were a Gen 2 vehicle. Also in the Model S, the MCU software can be told what receiver system to expect which may not be the actual system that's installed if a mistake is made. This will make the system not work at all, as you found out in your other thread.

This post, as well as mine, were about model 3, not S.
 
Same thing applies. If sensors are properly programmed, they work with the S, X, and 3.

The point is that there is nothing inherently wrong or incompatible with dual frequency sensors. They will work properly with all models of Tesla when properly programmed.

Sounds like you and the mfg should get together and train Discount on how to program them.

In the meantime, OP can hopefully tell Discount that he needs single band 433 sensors and they will work out of the box.
 
In the meantime, OP can hopefully tell Discount that he needs single band 433 sensors and they will work out of the box.

The frequency is not the only item that is necessary for a set of sensors to work with a particular car. The protocol, modulation, and data format also have to be set properly. Just because a car uses 433MHz for transmission doesn't mean that any generic 433 MHz sensor will work.

Any programmable sensor, whether it's single or dual frequency, still needs to be programmed with the specifics for the Teslas. If a tire shop doesn't know what they're doing when they program the sensors, then they probably won't work properly, no matter if the sensors are single frequency or dual frequency.

A lot of sensors on the market are programmed with everything needed at the factory, then they're sold as compatible with a particular model of car or cars. But most tire shops don't carry these types of sensors anymore, because there's 200 different sensors that need to be stocked. Carrying only one programmable sensor that can be programmed to work with nearly any car is what they want to do, but they have to have programmers that are updated with the latest parameters and technicians who know what they're doing.
 
Just got new wheels, TPMS sensors, and summer tires from my local Discount tire. I'd ask for the gray metallic sensor only because I thought they'd look better with my new hypersilver wheels, and that's what my Aero wheels came with.
They install Huf IntelliSens UVS4041 TPMS Sensor (433MHz black rubber valve stem, programming required). I inspected finished work, noticed they black rubber valve stems but thought they looked OK and were equivalent, so I headed home. After driving about 15 miles I got a TPMS fault, and none of the sensors would read.

After researching at the Huf web site, I determined that these sensor require programming prior to install, are speed rated to only 130mph, and show as applicable for the Model 3 (apparently HUF doesn't know the 3D and 3P are cabable of more than 130mph).

So back to Discount tire where they replace all with Huf IntelliSens UVS4040 (433MHz, gray metallic stem, programming required, no speed rating limit listed, and listed as compatible with Model 3).
I again inspected the wheels, initiated a manual TPMS reset and started home. The TPMS error continued and did not go off, even after three wheels began reading normal pressures.
I've tried wheel configuration reset, TPMS reset, and rebooting the car, multiple times with no more that three sensors reading.

I've read some forums where they suggest letting air out of the tire, refilling to suggested pressure, then resetting TPMS sensor.
Not sure if that's urban legend or not, but thought I'd give that a try before heading back to Discount Tire.
 
Hi Boiler81,

The let the air out and refill is a real process... to activate or waken some sensors...
With that being said it sounds like you may have one bad sensor...
Their TPMS tool(s) should be able to read the address, temp., pressure, and battery status
of each sensor.
Have them try to read the sensors before trying anything more...
They should easily be able to find the "bad" one.

Good luck,

Shawn
 
The let the air out and refill is a real process

Thanks Shawn.
Dropped the tire pressure to 20 PSI, then refilled to 42PSI. Reset TPMS sensors, and that sensor didn't come to life.

I'm thinking about pulling the "summer wheel" off (235/40 R19) and putting back on one of my OEM 18" Aero wheels ("winter wheels") (235/45 R18) to see if that works.

Not sure what the car would do with three 19" wheels and one 18", but the tire diameter shouldn't be much different, and I know the OEM sensors will read.

P.S. I'm a native Michiganian, born in Kalmazoo.
 
Last edited:
Hi Boiler81,

It will be weird to have that mix of tires and wheels...
You only need to drive a couple of miles to see what is happening.
It sounds like you already know which is the bad sensor.
Good luck...

Kalamazoo is less than an hour away - I am closer to Elkhart, Indiana.

Shawn