Discussion: Model Y General Waiting room for orders placed After January 2023

[pradeep1231]

Your second sentence is unclear

If you see a inventory vehicle and buy it online yourself then new pricing will be applicable to you. But our service advisor can assign that vehicle to you with old pricing( 2k less )

 

[pradeep1231]

Perhaps they are saying if you choose an inventory car you’ll have to pay the higher price but if the SA grabs it for you they can keep your OOD price?

That's correct

 

[ArizonaFish]

For the frunk, are you closing it the right way (putting the frunk down and then firmly pressing down on it with your palm to close it)?

I tried doing that, it felt like I was about make a dent

 

[yerEVan]

Did you get assigned with new ViN after rejection, I am in the same boat rejected on 02/04, still waiting for assigning with new one, OD is 01/13..

Yes picked up car today. Looks perfect actually Fremont this time not Austin.

 

[rr_92]

I tried doing that, it felt like I was about make a dent

That's probably not normal then. Typically it should be fairly easy to just press down so the frunk latches shut. If the topside of the frunk feels off, then definitely a good idea to get that checked.

 

[arbitrage000]

I tried doing that, it felt like I was about make a dent

You will see the aluminum bend so you have to be careful but that is the correct technique to close. I push right on top of the Tesla badge. No slamming involved, slowly lower and then ideally two handed push on either side of the badge to gently close without any permanent deformation of the hood.

 

[holmesm1]

Congrats! Yes, you can pay at delivery with a bank certified check. That's I was told by the SA. I don't want to transfer the money in advance.

My SA said that as well. I am bringing a certified check at delivery and paying the balance on the Tesla Plaid app at delivery. This was also approved by the SA.

 

[biguncle]

I see that everyone got an email about a meeting on 2/17. I ordered MYLR 1/19 and I didnt get any email. EDD 2/7-3/7

 

[Wubba33]

Picked up my MYLR today in Norwell, MA.
Austin build, had Matrix lights, PPF and mud flaps.

Went through the checklist, everything looked good.

 

[Goobers]

You will see the aluminum bend so you have to be careful but that is the correct technique to close. I push right on top of the Tesla badge. No slamming involved, slowly lower and then ideally two handed push on either side of the badge to gently close without any permanent deformation of the hood.

This is a prime example of why I would buy one of those goofy aftermarket powered struts.

Maybe an incremental upgrade would be to put (weld) a piece of metal or even plastic just behind the Tesla emblem so you can push on it to secure the latch (still after “gently” lowering it).

 

[Cyclone]

Picked up my MYLR today in Norwell, MA.
Austin build, had Matrix lights, PPF and mud flaps.

Went through the checklist, everything looked good.

Are you sure it’s matrix? I haven’t seen any confirmed Austin builds have matrix until now.

 

[jhirsch123]

I tried doing that, it felt like I was about make a dent

I had the same issue- and an open frunk and that was making it pretty hard for me to take delivery no matter how badly I wanted the car. So the SA came out, palms down, hands a bit more than shoulder width apart with fingers pointing outward, then pressed down with not an overly seeming amount of force and it closed on her first try LOL. I was doing it just right on either side of the Tesla emblem like the instructions say and it would not close. So try moving your hands farther apart. I do think it should probably be adjusted but didn’t want to prevent me taking delivery so I just have left it closed. Haven’t opened it since

 

[bigboi]

Thanks for the insights. Do you mean to do a good job, they would have to take the panels apart to cover the edge? It seems quite some work for DIY then. I am struggling on deciding it. Material costs around $1k for full front. A professional service costs around $2k. Not sure if DIY is a good idea though. How difficult could it be to install a film?

Yes. The way we did it was to disassemble the front bumper and headlights if it’s just a full front PPF package. Then we would cut the PPF given the dimensions by Xpel but we would extend the edges by an extra inch or 2 so we can fully wrap it around each panel. The goal is to apply the film as much of the car as possible while not making it easily visible there is even a film on it unless you knew what to look for. As “seamless” as possible.

This will be my last response in regards to PPF questions. If there’s another thread I’ll reply to that

 

[pradeep1231]

Are you sure it’s matrix? I haven’t seen any confirmed Austin builds have matrix until now.

I was told my one of the employee of Tesla at Service Center that even Austin builds have matrix lights

 

[DonnieTC]

I was told my one of the employee of Tesla at Service Center that even Austin builds have matrix lights

Could very well be. I don't think I've seen anyone who has received an Austin build confirm they have Matrix headlights. I'd be interested to see pictures of Wubba's because that'd be the first confirmed one to me.

 

[Slayerz00m]

Picked up my MYLR today in Norwell, MA.
Austin build, had Matrix lights, PPF and mud flaps.

Went through the checklist, everything looked good.

Care to share some pics? If you got Matrix headlights, that'd be a first from Austin.
Make the car face a wall or garage door, run the light show, if you've got Matrix headlights, the lights will spell TESLA on the wall.

 

[Cyclone]

Care to share some pics? If you got Matrix headlights, that'd be a first from Austin.
Make the car face a wall or garage door, run the light show, if you've got Matrix headlights, the lights will spell TESLA on the wall.

A picture head on to the headlight will also let us properly verify it.

 

[Slayerz00m]

As someone who used to be in the automotive styling industry, let me give some insight on PPF and ceramic coating. Just to give some context I’m in SoCal and have been out of the business for 2 years now but still have plenty of friends in the business that I talk to frequently.

Over 50% of our clients were Tesla owners. The most popular package that we sold was a full front PPF (front bumper, hood, front fenders, headlights, fog lights, mirror caps, trunk lip) and ceramic coat the rest of the car (also did chrome deletes before they changed to black trim). Just the front end PPF was just over $2k that we charged. I would suspect anything over $1500 is normal for a full front. Anything less than that I would second guess the qualify of work you’re getting. Also if they’re pre cut kits and they don’t wrap around the edges and don’t require any disassembly that would be significantly cheaper and faster for the installer but you would see dirt accumulate around the corners and edges very quickly. Also lifting on those spots was common. As a for profit business we have to cover our overhead so we need to charge a fair amount that keeps us profitable. If you find someone that works out of their own garage that may be the most cost effective way but I sure hope he has experience.

Point about ceramic coating a lot of people don’t take into consideration is the paint correct step before applying the coating. Applying coating is very simple and straightforward but even a brand new car from any manufacturer will have paint defects. If you don’t paint correct before applying the coating then whatever imperfection (swirls, scratches, damages, etc.) will be embedded in the coating. Later on it would require having to remove the coating to get to those imperfections and make the whole process a lot more costly and risky. Most of the cost will be the paint correction process. Pricing for this also varies the most between shops but be sure to ask about whether or not they will do a paint correction before applying the coating.

Ceramic coating on top of PPF is nice but not necessary IMO. It does make the car easier to clean and theoretically would prolong the life of the PPF from yellowing but I have yet to see a car with it on long enough to definitely say how much more life you will get.

Maintenance is key for anything you do, whether it’s PPF, ceramic coating or vinyl wrapping. A car that is garaged and not directly in the sun will last significantly longer than one that is. If you live by the ocean that will degrade the material much faster as well. Cleaning the car regularly is a big emphasis on maintaining all the work you paid to have done. Most PPF films have a 10 year warranty but be mindful when you remove it it may peel the paint off. Tesla doesn’t have the best quality of paint so I wouldn’t recommend keeping the film on that long. Maybe replace it every 5-7 years depending how much damage it has suffered.

In your professional opinion, is it worth bothering with PPF for Tesla, especially given your suspicions that PPF removal might anyhow damage the underlying paint.

 

[Slayerz00m]

Are 1/15 orders starting to get VINs?
I haven't seen too many of those

 

[rugox]

Are 1/15 orders starting to get VINs?
I haven't seen too many of those

nope...still haven't received mine