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DIY Chrome Delete with Plasti Dip

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So for the attached two spots on my trim,would you cut out the affected area , then redip using the cardboard method mentioned above?

Do you have any photos of how you tapped the window trim you can share ?
 

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So for the attached two spots on my trim,would you cut out the affected area , then redip using the cardboard method mentioned above?

Do you have any photos of how you tapped the window trim you can share ?
Several new dip layers can level out some surface imperfections like dips or bumps. If you can remove the excess bumps and push it down so it's relatively flat, several touch-up layers may be viable. But it may be easier to just redo that whole section.

Here's a pic of my masking. I didn't do a perfect job here - your really need to be RIGHT up agains the chrome trim. I had several spots where some rubber seal is not covered.

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Several new dip layers can level out some surface imperfections like dips or bumps. If you can remove the excess bumps and push it down so it's relatively flat, several touch-up layers may be viable. But it may be easier to just redo that whole section.

Here's a pic of my masking. I didn't do a perfect job here - your really need to be RIGHT up agains the chrome trim. I had several spots where some rubber seal is not covered.

View attachment 397813

@CrazyCoconut,

What Blue mask did you use on the windows particularly ....trim also?

Ski
 
After receiving quotes upwards of $1,000 for a professional vinyl chrome delete, I decided to do my own with 2 cans of black plasti dip, some masking tap, and a few garbage/plastic bags. Total cost: $35. Total time: 6 hours.

Most of the effort is in the masking of the car, which took about 4 hours of total effort. I was being extra careful (probably too careful as plasti dip is very forgiving), and it was fairly tedious. It wasn't hard, just... time consuming.

The biggest tip I can give if you're planning on going the plasti dip route is making sure to apply the right kind of coating. I kept hearing to put super thin coats on to prevent streaks and runs, and while that is good advice, I took it too literally. I put pretty thin coats on the driver side and it ended up making me put 8 coats on for things to look nice.

For the passenger side, I decided to put thicker coats on, and after the 2nd coat, everything looked good. I put two more coats on for good measure, but this method proved to be much quicker and I got less texture. You don't want super thick coats, but thick enough that the trim is quite wet but not pooling up.

I also did the handles, which came out really nicely, but we'll see how they hold up with a lot of use over time.

Anyway, here are the results...

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Let me know if you have any questions! I'd be happy to answer anything and help people save a ton of money on this. Also, if you've done this yourself, any updates on how well it holds up?
Wow! Is it carwash proof?
 
@KFORE it has been about 18mos since the plastidip. How are the trims holding up?
I'm thinking of doing the same.

Things are holding up very well. There was one spot minor spot that showed some chrome that I touched up, but so far it still looks like the pictures I originally posted. Door handles have impressed me as well. They still look identical, even with the constant use day in and day out!
 
Things are holding up very well. There was one spot minor spot that showed some chrome that I touched up, but so far it still looks like the pictures I originally posted. Door handles have impressed me as well. They still look identical, even with the constant use day in and day out!
That's impressive. You were able to blend the touch up so it is unnoticeable?