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DIY Install Home Wall Charger

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After charging for a week, it was time to start some drywall work. A few YouTube videos later, I was ready to start.



After a few passes with the mud, multiple days, and some spackle, it was time for paint. Looks good! I can hardly tell there were two giant holes in the wall the week before. Yes, this was actually taken after painting was complete!



The wife was adamant about having the wood painted too.

 
Nice work and thanks for returning with photos of the results! I'm envious of your gorgeous attic/lounge - mine looks/feels like a volcano exploded in there.

P.S. You must have hulk hands to have wrangled not 2, but 3(!) conductors of #4 copper so neatly like that!

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Nice work and thanks for returning with photos of the results! I'm envious of your gorgeous attic/lounge - mine looks/feels like a volcano exploded in there.

P.S. You must have hulk hands to have wrangled not 2, but 3(!) conductors of #4 copper so neatly like that!

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Ha ha, hardly hulk hands at all. It was really hard to run it under and around all the other wires up there neatly. Having two helpers was absolutely necessary and having some random pieces of plywood and sheathing was necessary to not only work on but to re-spool the wires at various times/locations during the wire pull.

If I had to do it again, I would just get the 3x 6AWG.
 
Very clean install @Beerman81 . I was not comfortable to work in the panel--plus, I needed to have a sub-panel installed for next home project, so I went with electrician. Since I don't have use for an electric dryer, I asked him to remove the 30 amp breaker from that slot and drop in the 60 amp breaker and run the 6 AWG wire.
 

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Very clean install @Beerman81 . I was not comfortable to work in the panel--plus, I needed to have a sub-panel installed for next home project, so I went with electrician. Since I don't have use for an electric dryer, I asked him to remove the 30 amp breaker from that slot and drop in the 60 amp breaker and run the 6 AWG wire.
Very nice, a little bit of paint and you will be set.
 
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After charging for a week, it was time to start some drywall work. A few YouTube videos later, I was ready to start.
Very nice installation

Here's a tip for the drywall part: instead of holding the sheetrock saw at 90 degrees to the surface, hold it at 45 degrees so that you remove a plug that's larger on the outside of the wall than it is on the inside. Then when it's time to put it back, just butter up the edges and offer it up to the hole. The draw angle on the cut you made will stop it from falling into the wall, and if you do it well, you won't need to use any tape on the joints

One more thing: never cut out a section that's a perfect square or a perfect rectangle ... because you'll not know which way to hold it when you put it back. Make some shape that obviously fits only one way (like you did on the both openings)

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I like how you cut down the middle of the stud too as that'll make the closing a bit more solid and neater. It's just a lot more work that way
 
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Absolutely @MikeYan, Ground and Neutral are the same thing *at* the main breaker. It's only for subpanels that they need to be separate.
Your panel setup looks nice and easy even though all the slots are already occupied. Just replace the 4 20A breakers in the top right or left corner with 2 tandem 20A breakers and then put your 60A there in the top corner for best cooling and shortest electrical path.
 
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Before you get too far along, you will need to verify that your panel accepts tandem style breakers. Not all panels do. And if they do, its possible that only at designated locations in the panel. I agree with GG above, that the higher the better for heat dissipation.

The inside cover should have a schematic indicating where tandems can go.
 
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Thanks MN-MS100D and Gauss Guzzler. I installed the wall charger. Since the charger is connected to home WIFI, why can't it be accessed remotely like WIFI enabled thermostat? I installed Wall Monitor App which has to connect charger WIFI to work. The charger WIFI is always on.
 
Because I took the other route, I'd like to point out its benefits. I'm talking about wiring a simple $20 outlet instead of buying a "wall connector". Besides saving hundreds of dollars, I question the comment that a wall connector is "the most efficient way" to charge. I highly doubt that the efficiencies are relevant, even. With a 220-volt outlet, I have access to other uses than only charging my car, and as I charge at night over many hours when we're all asleep, as do many others, I find it's silly to worry about faster charging when the car is fully charged by morning anyway.

I have been charging my EVs for years using only a 220-volt outlet. As in YEARS. I spent around ten bucks for that outlet at The Home Depot, and there is NO NEED for anything else. This hand waving over having a "Wall Connector" is silly when your car and my car will both be charged to full every morning with the ONLY difference being that you spent hundreds of dollars more than I did. My county even allows me to wire and install my own outlets, but not a wall connector, so I save a few hundred more in electrician's fees. In fact, it almost seems that it's those very electricians who are pushing the wall connector, so that they can collect more in wiring and installation fees.

Anyone with any experience can install an outlet.
I realize I'm responding to an old post, but being able to maximize charge has it's benefits. The efficiency gains alone probably aren't worth it. But being on a TOU plan, if I drive a lot in the morning on the weekend, it would be nice to be able to get as much charge as possible before peak rates kick in. Not to mention of you end up with more than one Tesla, it gives you more flexibility with charge speeds on both cars. There is definitely value in future proofing.
 
Here you can see the cable runs inside of my attic and how had to drill through the studs using a 1-1/2" drill bit and a right-angle drill. (not an easy feat).

I used one-hole straps to secure the cable every few feet or so, with a few extras near transition points. This was quite a bit of work to do, thankfully i had my two kids up there helping. I should have used two-holes, as this would have made it a bit easier.









You don't need counduit?
 
Is this AWG 6 3 wire enough for 48A? My charger is right behind the panel, so only a few feet.
No, that is 6 gauge NM-B (also known as Romex cable). It has to be used at the 60 degree C temperature rating level, which for 6 gauge is only rated for up to 55 A circuits. You can't use it for a 60A circuit that runs at 48A continuous. But it's really no problem to use that properly for a 50A circuit. Here's the rating table to see this:

 
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