There is a calibration screw that needs to be adjusted, can only adjust when handle is out. Think it is a 8 torx size.. or 10.. you will see the switch closer to the front of the car if I remember..
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DIY MS Door Handle Repair
- Thread starter FlyinLow
- Start date
There is a calibration screw that needs to be adjusted, can only adjust when handle is out. Think it is a 8 torx size.. or 10.. you will see the switch closer to the front of the car if I remember..
EVTuning
Former Vendor
Sounds like the grip is adjusted too far out and it's hitting the frame on the door handle. So the T45 bolt is adjusted out too far. Otherwise you may need to adjust the switches.
Werid, I don't remember it being T45, last car I was adjusting I was sure it was one of my Micro Torx drivers.... And I meant the entire handle unit needs to be removed from car to adjust.
You guys are both correct. The distance the handle presents can be adjusted using the large torx screw in the center-back at the handle's pivot, on my 2015 P85D that was a T40. As Tony pointed out, you can then use the adjustment screw to set the amount of travel necessary to open the door. That is a micro torx, T8 on my car.
I found the problem and am getting a replacement door handle paddle and set of switches on order from EV Tuning. The paddle is broke and the switches are original.
Looks like the previous dealership that sold me the car came up with a pretty janky way to get a broken handle back "working" again. go figure.
The paddle broke and they must not of had a replacement. It appears they disassembled the handle, zip tied the paddle around the handle's axle and then used a screw to hold the whole assembly in place. A picture of how they did that is below.
This works surprisingly well and would be a pretty good fix in a pinch until you could get the correct parts on hand, of course it won't be nearly as durable. With this fix the handle presents and the door is able to open. The main problem with this solution is the handle presents all the way out to max travel and so the door auto opens every time the handle presents. For me, its annoying that my Driver's side door is opening way too often!
I adjusted the T40 screw pretty far out, such that the handle was about an 1/8" recessed in the handle's frame. That adjustment didn't seem to have any effect on the distance the handle would present. I suspect this is because the handle's paddle would normally be a mechanical stop once the handle reaches its adjusted limit.
I may fiddle with it a bit more to see if I can get it working in its current configuration. I didn't try Tony's technique, moving the T8 adjustment screw further in so the handle doesn't always trip the sensor to open the door. With the handle presenting all the way I decided to set it aside and get the replacement parts on order.
Thanks for everyone's help. The car is mildly disassembled right now but I don't have much need for it in the next week or two.
Mahalo!
I found the problem and am getting a replacement door handle paddle and set of switches on order from EV Tuning. The paddle is broke and the switches are original.
Looks like the previous dealership that sold me the car came up with a pretty janky way to get a broken handle back "working" again. go figure.
The paddle broke and they must not of had a replacement. It appears they disassembled the handle, zip tied the paddle around the handle's axle and then used a screw to hold the whole assembly in place. A picture of how they did that is below.
This works surprisingly well and would be a pretty good fix in a pinch until you could get the correct parts on hand, of course it won't be nearly as durable. With this fix the handle presents and the door is able to open. The main problem with this solution is the handle presents all the way out to max travel and so the door auto opens every time the handle presents. For me, its annoying that my Driver's side door is opening way too often!
I adjusted the T40 screw pretty far out, such that the handle was about an 1/8" recessed in the handle's frame. That adjustment didn't seem to have any effect on the distance the handle would present. I suspect this is because the handle's paddle would normally be a mechanical stop once the handle reaches its adjusted limit.
I may fiddle with it a bit more to see if I can get it working in its current configuration. I didn't try Tony's technique, moving the T8 adjustment screw further in so the handle doesn't always trip the sensor to open the door. With the handle presenting all the way I decided to set it aside and get the replacement parts on order.
Thanks for everyone's help. The car is mildly disassembled right now but I don't have much need for it in the next week or two.
Mahalo!
You guys are both correct. The distance the handle presents can be adjusted using the large torx screw in the center-back at the handle's pivot, on my 2015 P85D that was a T40. As Tony pointed out, you can then use the adjustment screw to set the amount of travel necessary to open the door. That is a micro torx, T8 on my car.
I found the problem and am getting a replacement door handle paddle and set of switches on order from EV Tuning. The paddle is broke and the switches are original.
Looks like the previous dealership that sold me the car came up with a pretty janky way to get a broken handle back "working" again. go figure.
The paddle broke and they must not of had a replacement. It appears they disassembled the handle, zip tied the paddle around the handle's axle and then used a screw to hold the whole assembly in place. A picture of how they did that is below.
This works surprisingly well and would be a pretty good fix in a pinch until you could get the correct parts on hand, of course it won't be nearly as durable. With this fix the handle presents and the door is able to open. The main problem with this solution is the handle presents all the way out to max travel and so the door auto opens every time the handle presents. For me, its annoying that my Driver's side door is opening way too often!
I adjusted the T40 screw pretty far out, such that the handle was about an 1/8" recessed in the handle's frame. That adjustment didn't seem to have any effect on the distance the handle would present. I suspect this is because the handle's paddle would normally be a mechanical stop once the handle reaches its adjusted limit.
I may fiddle with it a bit more to see if I can get it working in its current configuration. I didn't try Tony's technique, moving the T8 adjustment screw further in so the handle doesn't always trip the sensor to open the door. With the handle presenting all the way I decided to set it aside and get the replacement parts on order.
Thanks for everyone's help. The car is mildly disassembled right now but I don't have much need for it in the next week or two.
Mahalo!
I believe the T40 screw adjusts how much the handle will retract, the T8 adjust how much it extends. you screw by the microswitch does not look like a T8 or T40, wonder if the last repair also replaced that along with the ziptie? Shame they didn't get the $2 gear... I typically keep an handful around..
I'll probably also have to play around with adjusting a handle more..
EVTuning
Former Vendor
The T40 adjusts the grip when its retracted in the door to sit flush with the skin of the door. You can adjust it in or out depending on the manufacturing variances with the door itself and sometimes the casting of the handle assembly. (In the early days we had to shim them as well to get them to sit even front to back before adjusting the T40) The T8 really shouldn't have to be messed with. So long as the microswitches are installed correctly and the Paddle Gear isn't broken. Once the T8 is set from the factory it should stay in the correct position. I have run into instances where using a used handle on a different car it needs to be adjusted but this isn't very common.
Bonjour,
J'ai une TMS de novembre 2017 avec des poignées de 3éme génération.
Normalement elles doivent être recalibré par le SC si elles sont démontées.
Je dois remplacer le pignon cannelé qui s'est cassé sur l'une d'elle.
Que se passera-t-il au remontage si je démonte moi-même la poignée ?
Je veux dire physiquement...
Pourrais-je quand même fermer et ouvrir la porte ?
Le calibrage au SC agit sur quoi exactement ?
J'ai une TMS de novembre 2017 avec des poignées de 3éme génération.
Normalement elles doivent être recalibré par le SC si elles sont démontées.
Je dois remplacer le pignon cannelé qui s'est cassé sur l'une d'elle.
Que se passera-t-il au remontage si je démonte moi-même la poignée ?
Je veux dire physiquement...
Pourrais-je quand même fermer et ouvrir la porte ?
Le calibrage au SC agit sur quoi exactement ?
[QUOTE = "FlyinLow, poste: 4690607, membre: 71722"] Si vous conservez la même poignée et ne remplacez que les pièces internes, elle ne devrait pas avoir besoin d'être recalibrée. [/ QUOTE]
Merci pour votre réponse.
J'espère que vous avez raison !
Je dois juste remplacer le paddle gear.
Mais mon service center me dit que je devrai passer les voir ensuite pour recalibrer la poignée
Merci pour votre réponse.
J'espère que vous avez raison !
Je dois juste remplacer le paddle gear.
Mais mon service center me dit que je devrai passer les voir ensuite pour recalibrer la poignée
[QUOTE = "FlyinLow, poste: 4690607, membre: 71722"] Si vous conservez la même poignée et ne remplacez que les pièces internes, elle ne devrait pas avoir besoin d'être recalibrée. [/ QUOTE]
Merci pour votre réponse.
J'espère que vous avez raison !
Je dois juste remplacer le paddle gear.
Mais mon service center me dit que je devrai passer les voir ensuite pour recalibrer la poignée
please let us know if recalibration is required or not.
I started to replace my back handle yesterday and realized I hadn't replaced a back door handle yet. Just curious, any tips on accessing some of the nuts that hold the handle on? They are a bit different than the front doors.
I imagine I would have figured it out, but I was able to correct my handle without removing it. It had failed stuck open. Removing power and pushing it back in seemed to cure everything. I suspect it was stuck on a loose wire.
Great info in this thread!
I've installed the EV Tuning upgrade harness / microswitches, but the handle doesn't work still. Does not present, and does not open the door when pulled. I disassembled the door handle again, reinstalled everything, the paddle gear, original one, wasn't broken, to see that it moves ok. Tested the motor at the same time, and it's fine.
Window controls working fine so it's not the harness I guess (actually when the problem started the windows did not work because of a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse several times but it blew again. Only when I disconnected the door handle was the fuse able to survive, and the windows working).
Can I plug my drivers door handle in my passenger door to see if it works, to make sure it isn't the harness in the drivers door after all? (before I proceed to buy a complete new handle with everything, on Ebay)?
I'm asking because the drivers door handle might be differently controlled than the others (???) - I'm thinking of the setting where you chose to present only the drivers door-handle.
I've installed the EV Tuning upgrade harness / microswitches, but the handle doesn't work still. Does not present, and does not open the door when pulled. I disassembled the door handle again, reinstalled everything, the paddle gear, original one, wasn't broken, to see that it moves ok. Tested the motor at the same time, and it's fine.
Window controls working fine so it's not the harness I guess (actually when the problem started the windows did not work because of a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse several times but it blew again. Only when I disconnected the door handle was the fuse able to survive, and the windows working).
Can I plug my drivers door handle in my passenger door to see if it works, to make sure it isn't the harness in the drivers door after all? (before I proceed to buy a complete new handle with everything, on Ebay)?
I'm asking because the drivers door handle might be differently controlled than the others (???) - I'm thinking of the setting where you chose to present only the drivers door-handle.
Is the calibration screw the one that sits behind the micro switch and provides the contact point? or can over extension be fixed using the large center calibration screw?
You guys are both correct. The distance the handle presents can be adjusted using the large torx screw in the center-back at the handle's pivot, on my 2015 P85D that was a T40. As Tony pointed out, you can then use the adjustment screw to set the amount of travel necessary to open the door. That is a micro torx, T8 on my car.
I found the problem and am getting a replacement door handle paddle and set of switches on order from EV Tuning. The paddle is broke and the switches are original.
Looks like the previous dealership that sold me the car came up with a pretty janky way to get a broken handle back "working" again. go figure.
The paddle broke and they must not of had a replacement. It appears they disassembled the handle, zip tied the paddle around the handle's axle and then used a screw to hold the whole assembly in place. A picture of how they did that is below.
This works surprisingly well and would be a pretty good fix in a pinch until you could get the correct parts on hand, of course it won't be nearly as durable. With this fix the handle presents and the door is able to open. The main problem with this solution is the handle presents all the way out to max travel and so the door auto opens every time the handle presents. For me, its annoying that my Driver's side door is opening way too often!
I adjusted the T40 screw pretty far out, such that the handle was about an 1/8" recessed in the handle's frame. That adjustment didn't seem to have any effect on the distance the handle would present. I suspect this is because the handle's paddle would normally be a mechanical stop once the handle reaches its adjusted limit.
I may fiddle with it a bit more to see if I can get it working in its current configuration. I didn't try Tony's technique, moving the T8 adjustment screw further in so the handle doesn't always trip the sensor to open the door. With the handle presenting all the way I decided to set it aside and get the replacement parts on order.
Thanks for everyone's help. The car is mildly disassembled right now but I don't have much need for it in the next week or two.
Mahalo!
Gus, this is the post I messaged you about. TMC won't let me link back to it for some reason.
Hi EV. I bought a wiring loom for my second hand 2015 model S. I had two handles playing up. The loom works great thanks.Trouble is that the other handle has the hall effect sensor. The motor doesn't run when car is locked/ unlocked although pushing the handle into the car opens the door.
I checked the paddle gear and the motor with a 12v supply on workbench. Any ideas? Thanks.
I checked the paddle gear and the motor with a 12v supply on workbench. Any ideas? Thanks.
EVTuning
Former Vendor
Most likely the door handle lost calibration. Have to go back to tesla and have them "teach it" what "out, open and close" are. Not a DIY friendly part unfortunately.
Yinn
Active Member
When did they flip to Gen3? Any easy way to tell before disassembling?
I was just about to buy the kit but I've got an early AP2 S and didn't know if it would still work.
Thanks for the info EV. I'll try that. If the handle needs replacement though, can I go back to a gen 1 or 2 handle?
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