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DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017.

  1. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    I didn't purchase the premium interior package. The number one thing I wanted from it was the trunk opener. I had it on my previous car and didn't realize how much I missed it. The Tesla trunk is a hassle to close

    I set out to find a DIY powerlift kit and I found a company from China that makes one.

    The website is che1.com
    Power operated tailgate lift assisting system TL105 – Autoease

    The kit is $399 + $50 for shipping

    The instructions included were extremely lacking.

    Thanks to AMPUP who was a big help and deserves all the credit, I was able to get this installed with ease
    Power lift gate DIY possible?

    Thank you Akikiki for the Manual on how to remove those panels up there
    Lighted Rear Applique copy 2

    POSI-TAP connectors
    Amazon.com: Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors 10-22 awg: Automotive


    Extra Clips if needed
    Amazon.com: 25 Toyota Trim Panel Retainer Clips 90467-10188 Sienna: Automotive


    After installing and playing with the kit, I must say I am very happy with it. I mention in the video how high quality it feels and would have paid more for it.

    Its a must have for every Tesla owner without the liftgate

    If you have any questions or comments please ask

     
    • Like x 12
    • Informative x 3
    • Helpful x 2
  2. lunitiks

    lunitiks ˭ ˭ ʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽ ʭ ʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼ ˭ ˭

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    Super helpful and informative. Thanks a whole bunch!
     
    • Like x 1
  3. scottm

    scottm Active Member

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    Another awesome DIY for the community!

    Thank you for documenting it up so nicely.
     
    • Like x 1
  4. lunitiks

    lunitiks ˭ ˭ ʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽ ʭ ʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼ ˭ ˭

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    Question: Is this china thing possible to operate through the 17" touch screen? What happens if you press the "Trunk" button on the screen?
     
  5. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    the trunk will open fine from the touch screen.
     
  6. lunitiks

    lunitiks ˭ ˭ ʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽʽ ʭ ʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼʼ ˭ ˭

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  7. Model S M.D.

    Model S M.D. Ludicrous Radiologist

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    Well done! So it works completely as if OEM? Any key differences to note?
     
  8. scottm

    scottm Active Member

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    #8 scottm, Jan 30, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
    Anti-pinch is done differently...

    aftermarket one uses motor/motion stall detection before end of travel is reached. Video shows it auto-reversing when this is triggered while closing, which is good! Probably just stalls and stops when going in the up direction if there's a barrier (low ceiling) hit.

    Tesla uses an anti-pinch strip that runs along the edge of the hatch... press it and hatch halts. I'm not sure if it auto-reverses in all situations when the pinch strip is triggered. Tesla may also use motor stall (haven't tried this one.) But I have had fun with the anti-pinch strip. It's the same kind of strip that runs around the pano roof opening for anti-pinch there.

    Also the aftermarket one does a sudden drop with a thud at the end of closing... because it has to slam it shut for latching to work.

    Whereas, native Tesla power hatch does a smooth close to the end and the latch binds (pulls) to make it tight. No slam.

    This makes Tesla is a little more elegant and smooth with its actions, if such aesthetics are important to you.
     
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  9. 1tsla

    1tsla Member

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    #9 1tsla, Jan 30, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
    What year is your vehicle? Would you assist an install on mine and we can make a new video from start to finish? :)
     
  10. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    #10 BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
    An update on my install!
    I noticed the trunk was not fully closing like it did in the beginning of my install. I messaged the seller and he was helpful.
    He told me to put the panels back on (which were off) and to re-calibrate the system.

    You redo the calibration by pressing the trunk closing button for a few seconds until it beeps. Then you push it again to close the trunk. As it was closing, I helped it close by pushing down hard towards the end where it closes.

    Now it seems to be working fine. Closed and opened it quite a few times and the problem never appeared again.

    On a side note: The largest panel is really a pain to put back on. It will be much easier with two people.
    The panel removal and re-installation was the most time consuming part of the install
     
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  11. skyhix

    skyhix Member

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    I just ordered mine. I've been having a hard time getting the kids to close the trunk.
     
  12. TD-3

    TD-3 Member

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    Wow. Thank you so much for pursuing this and posting the details! I agonized after placing my order over whether to upgrade but all I really cared about was the lift gate (and maybe fog lights). I couldn't quite justify $3500 for the PuP so I'm definitely interested in this option. Nice job!
     
  13. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    Your very welcome. I was in the same boat. I actually like the aftermarket option a bit more. I figure parts wont be expensive if anything does happen to break. The motorized arms are actually very easy to change after they have been installed. After removing the trunks handles in the top panel, there is enough room to reach the control box without removing the panels. You can unplug the arms and easily pull the cables for the new motorized arms, all without removing any panels! I hope that made sense.
     
  14. andrewkc

    andrewkc New Member

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    you will be happy to know that the fog lights can be retrofitted quite easily as well, you will need a service center to enable for functionality though.

    Also ordered a set today as well. I saw the website several weeks back and I believe the cost was $350 for the pre-order. Thanks @BigTonyTones and @AMPUP for the videos and writeup!
     
  15. 1tsla

    1tsla Member

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    Yes, Thank yoU!. Are you now saying that we don't need to remove the plastic panels on the trunk door? to install? That should really speed things up. Does that mean we probably won't need those clips either?
     
  16. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    You do need to remove the panels for first time installation. If something ever breaks (motorized lift), it can be changed without removing the panels.
     
  17. 1tsla

    1tsla Member

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    Ahh, thank you for the clarification.
     
  18. Akikiki

    Akikiki A'-Lo-HA ! y'all

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    Sounds like they need a little training. Put them in the frunk a couple of times.
     
    • Funny x 4
  19. BigTonyTones

    BigTonyTones Member

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    I installed my radar detector a few days ago. I ran the power from the power harness underneath the center dash. It was extremely easy to remove the panels and get to the harness. I used my power probe to find switched 12 volt in the harness that I unplugged.

    After I finished the project and put everything back together, a thought came upon me. All those wires down there, there has to be constant 12 volt somewhere.

    Just an idea for anyone with an older tesla that doesn't want to run power to the battery
     
  20. HankLloydRight

    HankLloydRight Fluxing

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    The OBDII port under the driver's side dash has an easily accessible always-on +12v supply. I've used this for dashcams and radar detectors. Also, under the console left pax footwell are the switched +12v feeds for the USB ports, very easy to access.
     
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