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Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017.
Same! I'll try to get mine installed Tuesday since I'll have to goto fedex and get it.
I just did this mod with the v2 kit that has the soft close latch and external beeper. A lot more work than I thought.
Popping panels and removing trim is straightforward. Replacing the struts is simple.
The problem is there aren’t any clear instructions on wiring and mounting. I mounted the control module on right side near the power and ground. The soft close motor underneath carpet on the right.
Both connectors for the struts are the same length. And they both have large connectors on them. There is enough wire length for the right, but I had to splice and lengthen for the left. Just using power/ground for the left. The control wires are on the right.
Running power to the left side took several hours of trying to find the correct tool to route the wires. Then running wires through the rubber grommets is painfully tedious.
I also cut the yellow wire on the trunk wire harness which allows closing the trunk using the fob.
Adjusting height works like factory, however, the struts are so powerful it’s diffcult to move the trunk manually up or down.
I will make a quick video of what I did. It seems the module and wiring harness are constantly in flux.
I'll be installing another one for a forum member pretty soon so I'll get a chance to see how much they changed from my early V2 harness to the current version. Was hoping to not have to extend wires but sounds like there still isn't enough for the left strut. Curious that the wire still needs to be cut to allow for fob close...would assume they'd just take that wire out of the harness...
Finished the install. Here is a quick video I made before putting all the trim back.
These are awesome videos! Anyone in the Washington area know of an installer I could use? This looks a little over my head for self-install. Thanks guys, keep up the good work!
Will you do mine too?
Hah...I was actually planning on tossing out a feeler to see if others in the area are interested after doing this install. But anybody within reasonable distance can shoot me a message and we can work something out.
Anyone tried or know what happens if only one strut has power?
The factory option appears to only powers one strut.
Just received new control box from COzero. I think I’ll wait for warmer weather, before I take panels off to fit new box and cut yellow wire.
Did you ever get this installed? I’m very interested in using this product with the factory power lift gate on my 2015 Model S
No I am going to install foot sensor at same time as fitting new COzero control box,so I only have to remove panels once. I am waiting until Spring.
Has anyone fitted new control box and can confirm it solves Liftgate closing problem ?
Installed the new control box last weekend. At first I thought it wasn't making a difference as it would still try to close all the way when I would try to stop it, but then it suddenly started working.
While opening if you try to stop it, it will just stop in place, then if you press the button on the lid or the fob it will reverse direction and close.
While closing if you try to stop it, it will auto reverse and return to the open position.
Takes quite a bit of resistance to get it to register.
First time poster here... Just want to thank everyone on this thread about the experiences and details on the power lift gate for Model S.
I ordered mine from COzero early Jan 2018. Federico told me there would be a slight delay in shipment. I received the latest soft close version about 2 weeks later. Not bad for shipping from Europe to Northern California.
After reading the forum, I realized I would need to get new tools for extending the wire etc., and the whole process seemed a little overwhelming especially with the panel removals everyone said would be difficult. I contacted a guy from the local Tesla Mobile Service team and he agreed to install it for me after work. While he worked, I stayed by his side to watch, and occasionally lent a hand (when fishing the wires through the right side and popping the large hatch panel back in).
All in all, it took him about four hours from un-boxing to finish. As everyone said, the instructions could be better. Most of the four hours was spent on planning, and we spent about 30 minutes of trial and error after he connected the wires but the button would not work. Turns out you had to first manually close the hatch and then open it for it to start working.
1. You do need to extend the wires on the left side. We cut the connector off the left strut, which made it much easier to thread the wires through the black tube. Once on the other side (near the headliner), we extended the wire.
2. For the right side, instead of following the instructions to thread the wires through the black grommet, we simply used the unused plug hole next to the grommet. I believe that hole was for the factory power lift gate. Just remove the black plug attached to the wires in the kit, cut a whole in the slightly larger black plug covering the hole in the car, and thread the wires through.
3. Cutting the yellow wire on the latch does enable your key to operate the power lift gate.
4. The large pieces of double sided tape intended to secure the control module and the soft close unit do not work. We zip tied the control module on the right side and used two screws to secure the soft close unit under the carpet near the right rear fender.
5. The button that comes with the kit does light up red, similar to the factory button. I may install the factory button later. For now, the kit button works fine.
6. As everyone said, setting the hatch opening height works the same way as factory.
It's been 2 weeks since installation, and everything works beautifully.
In the end, I'm glad I didn't install the kit myself. I would need to buy new tools and accessories, and it would take me maybe twice as long trouble shooting and googling for solutions. Even if you are handy, I would suggest setting aside at least 3 hours for the job.
If you are in the SF Bay Area and want to hire someone to install the kit for you, I will recommend the person who performed my installation. He gave me permission to pass out his contact info, but I'd rather not post it on the forums in case he gets into trouble at work. Please let me know if there's interest and I can send you his contact info in private.
Just an FYI, I ordered a kit from Autoease last week. I just got it today 3/6/18 and it is NOT the soft close version.
I ordered mine from COzero March 6th. I received the latest soft close version 6 days later. That is amazing service. I will pick up the factory handle and the switch at my service center Wednesday they had both parts in stock. If all goes well this Sunday I should have a new power lift gate. Thanks to everyone here that has made this sound easy and to Mokuzai for putting up with my 50 questions. I was hoping to find the factory wiring harness so I don't have to do the tap but parts guy is very slow to respond, maybe when I pickup my parts I can corner him and find out what the number are and pricing.
Glad I could help, good luck and let me know if you need to hop on a call or do a video chat for anything during your install.
I reached out to COzero last week inquiring about some of the concerns I had based on what I read here.
COzero advised that they have a new revised wiring harness which accommodates both the right and left strut without having to add additional wires.
COzero also confirmed that the yellow wire has been removed, so you do not need to make modifications (cut the yellow wire) for the key fob to operate the liftgate.
I'll be placing my order soon. However - and this may be another question I'll ask COzero before doing so - are there any limitations in using the factory button instead of the button provided in the kit? I am pretty sure I read in this thread that some who opted for the factory button had issues operating the door using COzero's kit. Are there any known compatibility issues?
If you follow instructions earlier in this thread for wiring up the connector you should have no problem using Tesla button instead of button with the kit. The only difference using Tesla button with COzero kit, rather than the standard Tesla power liftgate, is that the button does not light up when pressed, as it does on standard setup. It still opens and closes the liftgate, which is the main thing.
That's great, I guess I'll be able to confirm for myself this weekend as I'll be doing the install for a local forum member. If my write ups have been helpful to you please consider using my link in the signature when ordering from COzero as they've set me up with a referral code.
I'm also available for any additional questions you may have before or during your install. As @Maranaz said the only difference with using the factory button is it doesn't light up. To make the install easier on the factory button it's recommended to get the plug and pins from mouser. Since these are bulk order items I ordered some extra so if you're considering the factory button shoot me a PM with your address and I can mail you a set.
This is one of the best threads on TMC. I come back to it often and following the posts from all of you. Its creative and inspiration to see so many owners helping each other. THAT'S what this forum is all about. You folks are the perfect example of what owning a Tesla and helping each other is all about. Please keep doing it.