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DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017.

  1. dragonvn

    dragonvn Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2019
    Messages:
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    Location:
    US
    Well, I just installed the new kit from cozero. They changed the kit again. The lock cable (connecting the hatch and open button) now is really short so I think the intention is to put the control box inside the lift gate which I did.
    The good thing is that the left strut cable just needs to be routed to the liftgate, I don't need to open the left side of the car at all and did connect both struts.

    Now I have to put it back and have a hard time putting the liner that cover the power panel back in place. Any tip?

    Thanks
     
  2. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2017
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    Location:
    Valencia, CA
    Pop one side in enough to align the screw hole on that side and replace the screw. That'll hold that side in place while you align and pop in the rest of the tabs. Doing this way I'm able to put it back together solo.
     
  3. Akikiki

    Akikiki A'-Lo-HA ! y'all

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2012
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    3,565
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    Kaneohe
    Good work dragonvn. Glad to hear its working out. As for the liftgate big black liner, be sure you get your center trunk light wire routed back to the hole where the puddle light plugs back in. Its nearly impossible to wiggle the light's wire back over to the hole after the liner is back up.

    I've removed that liner three-four times by myself, its more than two hands can manage. Very frustrating. I think even trying to re-install it without taking it out back and jumping up and down on it, is heroic. :)
     
  4. shrink

    shrink Supporting Member

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    Phoenix, AZ
    I installed the Gen 1 version of this back in 2017. I had a lot of issues with the liftgate not staying open, but that was fixed with an updated control module. Everything was smooth sailing ever since.

    But I did want the soft close option and installed that this weekend. Upgrade from Autoease cost me $350 shipped and it arrived in 2 days from Hong Kong. Amazing.

    Upgrade included a new control module, new latch, and new struts. The control module is like gen 1 and is installed inside the liftgate. Saw that the gen 2 control module was installed in the lower right of the trunk and strut wires had to be extended. Thankfully I didn’t have to deal with any of that.

    The new latch wire is short and the motor is a bit big. It made getting the panels back on a bit difficult. I did have to fish the latch motor power wire up though grommet and into the tailgate and to the new control module. That was the hardest part. I was able to reuse the old power wire. Old struts and wiring were removed for the new struts and new wiring, but that’s relatively easy.

    I did have a very weird power problem at first. It just wasn’t working and I was positive I wired everything correctly. Autoease support was helpful and said the power supply was “unstable.” They suggested I check the ground and charge the 12V battery. I ended up unplugging my dash camera and everything started working. I plugged the dash camera back in and everything still works. No idea what happened but it’s all working.

    New struts open much higher than gen 1. Opening is a lot faster, too. Gen 1 opened very slowly for me. I’m loving the soft close. So this upgrade was well worth it to me from gen 1.

    One more thing - I had gen 1 wired to the OEM Tesla button, but that no longer works for some reason. I just used the included button and it works well. I don’t know what changed but if anyone knows how to wire this new version to the OEM button, please let me know.

    Video link is below. Silver car is hatch opening with the Autoease upgrade. Red car is Tesla OEM hatch opening. I noticed a slight delay from the keyfob press with the aftermarket kit. Other than that, it’s very similar to OEM.



    Last, last thing - I still need to test pinch sensing on the Autoease kit.
     
    • Informative x 1
  5. miken79

    miken79 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2016
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    DC
    In the last week my cozero lift has started to fail on me :( It will start to open then close back up. It won't even function again until I pull the trunk open a few inches and let it settle back down then I can get it to open. I guess it only lasts for so long.
     
  6. acdcmotors

    acdcmotors New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2019
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    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    My 17 Model S was rear-ended, and the body shop did their best to put everything back together, but they had trouble with the early model COzero PLG (has internal speaker in the controller). I'm hoping someone here can help me out... basically, it doesn't lift the gate.

    First, does the early COzero models have the additional motorized hitch i.e. the part that is bolted to the bumper? I bought the car second hand, and don't know all of the parts that were involved. The instructions provided by COzero seem to suggest no...

    What works:

    If I cycle power on the control unit, it beeps and if I press the internal gate button, it will lower to a close.

    What doesn't work:

    Per the instruction, supposedly after applying power, you are to physically close the gate and press the FOB 2x and the gate should lift. When I try this, the gate just unlatches but the motors don't move at all.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  7. miken79

    miken79 Member

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    You have to cut a wire, I forget which one. It should be in this thread somewhere.
     
  8. acdcmotors

    acdcmotors New Member

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    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    Thanks for the thoughts. I'm wondering if this is true as the PLG was already installed and working for years, unless the body shop replaced previous wire harnesses with new OEM harnesses? I'll keep looking and see what I can come up with. Thanks!
     
  9. acdcmotors

    acdcmotors New Member

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    Jul 10, 2019
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    3
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    I figured out the issue. The body shop had connected the OEM liftgate lock connector to the liftgate lock instead of the adapter, and had looped the liftgate lock adapter back onto itself. When the kit is wired this way, the behavior is:

    1. 2x press = liftgate unlock, but no lift
    2. press of button on the gate itself will close the first time only after the initial power is applied

    Hopefully nobody will ever end up in this situation as I did, but wanted to share just in case...
     
    • Like x 1
  10. shrink

    shrink Supporting Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    For anyone planning to do the upgrade from gen 1, I was able to get the OEM button wired up, illuminated, and fully functioning in the current version of this product. I read some were having some difficulty with illumination, but mine works perfectly.

    Autoease provided me with the wiring diagram below:

    20DAB6E6-D8DA-444C-A65F-ED9BD495EDDA.jpeg

    Note, the first pin is blank. The colors of the other wires seem to vary per version, but the pin position seems to be consistent.

    Then use @Cricket88’s post from below to see the how the OEM button should be wired and just match to the Autoease provided photo above:

    DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video
     
    • Informative x 1
  11. Akikiki

    Akikiki A'-Lo-HA ! y'all

    Joined:
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    Nicely done.
     
  12. Chaichai

    Chaichai Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2019
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    UK
    I am currently going through an install of a COZero kit v3 (ECU fitted near pull handle on tailgate) on a Model S ~ June 2017. I am stuck on where to tap permanent 12V from... Can anyone tell me which connector i should be tapping from? Thank you
     

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