I really don`t think it matters but on mine where they are labeled L/R, the right hand side have gray plugs and blue on the left side!!
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video
- Thread starter BigTonyTones
- Start date
I installed the button on the top part of the handle cup too, but once I tighten the nut on the other side of the handle cup, the bolt (on the other side of the button) extends too far and the handle cup cannot be inserted back into the lift gate. So I had to loosen the nut and only rely on the 3M tape to stick the button on to the handle cup.
I wish we can get the oem power liftgate handle cup and wire it up properly.
It's going to be a problem to insert it back. You usually insert bottom part first (with the button installed) and then lock it on the top, you can do it in the opposite way you can break the locks on the bottom.
Gotcha I see the problem. Thanks for the answers I went ahead and installed it to the bottom. For what it's worth, the OEM button uses 3 wires as well so it should be relatively simple to retrofit. When I have a moment, I'll research Mouser for the proper male harness so it can be plug/play
went to the service center and picked up the switch yesterday. Ill try to test it today and identify the connections.
In the meantime, here are the part numbers for those who might be interested!
1009264-00-E - plastic handle $19
1010327-00-A - Switch $47.44
In the meantime, here are the part numbers for those who might be interested!
1009264-00-E - plastic handle $19
1010327-00-A - Switch $47.44
Di
Let us know if it works
Messed around a little with the factory switch today and I got it working! Here is the pin-out order.
If you're looking at the switch from the backside (label up) the pins are from left to right:
1) illumination (red)
2) common ground (white)
3) signal (continuity) to trunk (black)
In the meantime, I used small female pins from a donor PC case ( the small pins from the power switch, motherboard speaker, etc. once I find the actual male harness from mouser, I'll update it here.
On the Che1 autolift kit, the harness is color coded as follows:
1) blank
2) white (common ground)
3) red (illumination)
4) black (signal continuity to trunk)
So basically cut the harness, and crimp terminal pins to the wires and connect them to the factory switch in the order I posted above for the factory pin-out.
So far everything is working as it should!
The connector looks exactly the same you hook up to the lock m I wonder if che1 can sell them retail
Do you happen to have the part number?
Here you go. Wasn't really sure what to take a photo of, but here is the "finished" harness from the Che1 kit and spliced to the custom 3-pin harness. Also a picture of the harness plugged into the factory switch, and lastly the final result:
The connector looks exactly the same you hook up to the lock m I wonder if che1 can sell them retail
Do you happen to have the part number?
I do not. I tried to do some light research on Mouser for the correct pigtail but gave up because the computer case connector worked and Mouser turned up too many potential hits...
Sm4llz
Member
How was this enable on the touchscreen? Was it automatically added once everything was connected?
Buddy
Member
i just read this thread and i am confused.
Will someone dumb down the process into a step 1 step 2 format for me? If i can add a power liftgate for $50 i am going to grin ear to ear.
Will someone dumb down the process into a step 1 step 2 format for me? If i can add a power liftgate for $50 i am going to grin ear to ear.
Similar threads
