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DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video

Powerflux

Member
Feb 5, 2017
12
1
Oslo, Norway
So both my struts in the kit I received are marked "Left" but one has blue plugs and the other one has gray ones. Does it matter which side goes where?

Thanks in advance
I really don`t think it matters but on mine where they are labeled L/R, the right hand side have gray plugs and blue on the left side!!
 

druken

Member
Nov 22, 2016
24
24
CA
i checked the label on the module, looks like blue is left and gray is right (in case someone receives two labeled left)... install was definitely straight-forward. I didn't drill the hole for the switch yet because there actually seems to be more space for the switch on the top part of the handle (vs the bottom of the handle per the instructions here). Is there an issue with mounting the switch to the top part of the handle?

I installed the button on the top part of the handle cup too, but once I tighten the nut on the other side of the handle cup, the bolt (on the other side of the button) extends too far and the handle cup cannot be inserted back into the lift gate. So I had to loosen the nut and only rely on the 3M tape to stick the button on to the handle cup.

I wish we can get the oem power liftgate handle cup and wire it up properly.
 

dennis_d

Member
Jan 22, 2017
346
1,498
TX
i checked the label on the module, looks like blue is left and gray is right (in case someone receives two labeled left)... install was definitely straight-forward. I didn't drill the hole for the switch yet because there actually seems to be more space for the switch on the top part of the handle (vs the bottom of the handle per the instructions here). Is there an issue with mounting the switch to the top part of the handle?
It's going to be a problem to insert it back. You usually insert bottom part first (with the button installed) and then lock it on the top, you can do it in the opposite way you can break the locks on the bottom.
 

Cricket88

Member
Jan 26, 2017
351
455
Los Angeles
Gotcha I see the problem. Thanks for the answers I went ahead and installed it to the bottom. For what it's worth, the OEM button uses 3 wires as well so it should be relatively simple to retrofit. When I have a moment, I'll research Mouser for the proper male harness so it can be plug/play
IMG_0642.JPG
 
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dennis_d

Member
Jan 22, 2017
346
1,498
TX
Di
went to the service center and picked up the switch yesterday. Ill try to test it today and identify the connections.

In the meantime, here are the part numbers for those who might be interested!

1009264-00-E - plastic handle $19
1010327-00-A - Switch $47.44
Let us know if it works :)
 

Cricket88

Member
Jan 26, 2017
351
455
Los Angeles
Di

Let us know if it works :)

Messed around a little with the factory switch today and I got it working! Here is the pin-out order.

If you're looking at the switch from the backside (label up) the pins are from left to right:

1) illumination (red)
2) common ground (white)
3) signal (continuity) to trunk (black)

In the meantime, I used small female pins from a donor PC case ( the small pins from the power switch, motherboard speaker, etc. once I find the actual male harness from mouser, I'll update it here.

IMG_0675.JPG
 

Cricket88

Member
Jan 26, 2017
351
455
Los Angeles
IMG_0676.JPG


On the Che1 autolift kit, the harness is color coded as follows:

1) blank
2) white (common ground)
3) red (illumination)
4) black (signal continuity to trunk)

So basically cut the harness, and crimp terminal pins to the wires and connect them to the factory switch in the order I posted above for the factory pin-out.

So far everything is working as it should!
 
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dennis_d

Member
Jan 22, 2017
346
1,498
TX
View attachment 219785

On the Che1 autolift kit, the harness is color coded as follows:

1) blank
2) white (common ground)
3) red (illumination)
4) black (signal continuity to trunk)

So basically cut the harness, and crimp terminal pins to the wires and connect them to the factory switch in the order I posted above for the factory pin-out.

So far everything is working as it should!
So you just walked in the service center and ask to buy a liftgate button?
 

BigTonyTones

Member
Nov 28, 2016
626
517
Los Angeles
Messed around a little with the factory switch today and I got it working! Here is the pin-out order.

If you're looking at the switch from the backside (label up) the pins are from left to right:

1) illumination (red)
2) common ground (white)
3) signal (continuity) to trunk (black)

In the meantime, I used small female pins from a donor PC case ( the small pins from the power switch, motherboard speaker, etc. once I find the actual male harness from mouser, I'll update it here.

View attachment 219783
do you mind posting a picture of the final install? I greatly appreciate it
 

Cricket88

Member
Jan 26, 2017
351
455
Los Angeles
The connector looks exactly the same you hook up to the lock m I wonder if che1 can sell them retail :)

Do you happen to have the part number?

I do not. I tried to do some light research on Mouser for the correct pigtail but gave up because the computer case connector worked and Mouser turned up too many potential hits...
 

Buddy

Member
Jul 3, 2016
661
537
Riverside County
i just read this thread and i am confused.

Will someone dumb down the process into a step 1 step 2 format for me? If i can add a power liftgate for $50 i am going to grin ear to ear.
 

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