Trunk Hook Story for TMC.
Pictures also at: Tesla
This story shows how a DIY-oriented Tesla Model 3 owner can economically implement convenient multiple shopping bag hooks in the rear trunk, which has none as delivered. Objectives:
1. Low-cost
2. Simple
3. Use mostly standard hardware store parts
4. Avoid drilling any holes in the Model 3
Two existing down-facing holes in the aluminum crossmember at the top of the trunk were used, along with an exposed stud on the right. The result was 3 different methods of fastening, any or all of which you might implement.
The following tools were used:
· Metal Cutting Band Saw (Hack saw might do)
· Drill Press (Cordless drill might do)
· Metric tap M6.0x1.0
· Files
· Square, Rulers, awl, etc.
The only common part was the plate with 4 notches in 2 arms that can each accommodate bag straps. (see Figure 1). You could also make plates with 3 or 4 arms. I considered bending the ends of arms upward, but wanted to minimize intrusion into the trunk. The hooks can be removed if they ever get in the way.
I tried using a nibbling tool to make the notches, but it couldn’t hack the 1/8” thick aluminum without risk of breaking.
Figure 1. Making 1/8" notches in the 1" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock with 5/16" hole. 3 were made.
Figure 2. shows a well nut, from Lowe’s, that fit the left hole in the crossmember. The rubber body expands as you tighten it.
Figure 2. The well nut, with 5/8" body diameter, only worked in the left hole (16mm) in the Model 3's aluminum trunk crossmember.
The left hook just before installation is shown in Figure 3.
Figure 3. Left hook ready to install. The 5/16-18 x 1" bolt has 1/2" hex head that can be torqued with a 13mm wrench. Note 1/8" thick aluminum spacer.
Moving to the right side where there is a 6 mm stud available, Figure 4. shows how that hook was made. You might find a threaded 6 mm coupling to avoid drilling and tapping. I had a scrap from a 5/8” aluminum tie rod from my race car. There are plastic versions with 3 arms available on-line if you don’t want to make your own.
Figure 4. There is one M6x1.0 stud at right rear. The 5/8" diameter x ~1/2" aluminum rod was tapped to screw onto it, then the plate, washer, and bolt added.
Finally moving to the right, a well-nut style unit like for the left side was made, but surprise: this hole is oblong 16mm x 22mm. Lowes does not have a bigger well nut that could be shaped to fit. Auto stores have compression plugs that might work. The toggle wall fastener contraption shown in Figures 5-7 was made. The big rubber washer is 1/16” thick and keeps it from sliding around.
Figure 5. The hole at the right end of the crossmember is oblong, so the wellnut doesn't work. A 3/16" toggle bolt (top) was cut by 1/4" on each arm and various fender washers plus a spacer nut used. The 10-24 bolt is stainless.
Figure 6. Right crossmember hook, ready to install.
Figure 7. Right crossmember hook, installed, viewed from back seat.
Figure 8. shows all three hooks installed. More bags could be added to each one.
Figure 8. All 3 double bag hooks installed, viewed from trunk opening.
There is yet another possibility that was not attempted. Figure 9. shows one of the three child seat tether anchor points in the rear shelf with its door open. It is accessible from below, so with the back seat folded down, you could push something like a bag handle or maybe a ty-wrap up to hook in place. This may be more useful as cargo hooks like Saabs and Volvos have, which are also missing from the Model 3 trunk, suggesting another DIY project.
Figure 9. All 3 child seat anchors are accessible from above, as shown, and below.
Please comment and especially let me know if you are going to try any of these. I could provide more details and dimensions.
Pictures also at: Tesla
This story shows how a DIY-oriented Tesla Model 3 owner can economically implement convenient multiple shopping bag hooks in the rear trunk, which has none as delivered. Objectives:
1. Low-cost
2. Simple
3. Use mostly standard hardware store parts
4. Avoid drilling any holes in the Model 3
Two existing down-facing holes in the aluminum crossmember at the top of the trunk were used, along with an exposed stud on the right. The result was 3 different methods of fastening, any or all of which you might implement.
The following tools were used:
· Metal Cutting Band Saw (Hack saw might do)
· Drill Press (Cordless drill might do)
· Metric tap M6.0x1.0
· Files
· Square, Rulers, awl, etc.
The only common part was the plate with 4 notches in 2 arms that can each accommodate bag straps. (see Figure 1). You could also make plates with 3 or 4 arms. I considered bending the ends of arms upward, but wanted to minimize intrusion into the trunk. The hooks can be removed if they ever get in the way.
I tried using a nibbling tool to make the notches, but it couldn’t hack the 1/8” thick aluminum without risk of breaking.
Figure 1. Making 1/8" notches in the 1" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock with 5/16" hole. 3 were made.
Figure 2. shows a well nut, from Lowe’s, that fit the left hole in the crossmember. The rubber body expands as you tighten it.
Figure 2. The well nut, with 5/8" body diameter, only worked in the left hole (16mm) in the Model 3's aluminum trunk crossmember.
The left hook just before installation is shown in Figure 3.
Figure 3. Left hook ready to install. The 5/16-18 x 1" bolt has 1/2" hex head that can be torqued with a 13mm wrench. Note 1/8" thick aluminum spacer.
Moving to the right side where there is a 6 mm stud available, Figure 4. shows how that hook was made. You might find a threaded 6 mm coupling to avoid drilling and tapping. I had a scrap from a 5/8” aluminum tie rod from my race car. There are plastic versions with 3 arms available on-line if you don’t want to make your own.
Figure 4. There is one M6x1.0 stud at right rear. The 5/8" diameter x ~1/2" aluminum rod was tapped to screw onto it, then the plate, washer, and bolt added.
Finally moving to the right, a well-nut style unit like for the left side was made, but surprise: this hole is oblong 16mm x 22mm. Lowes does not have a bigger well nut that could be shaped to fit. Auto stores have compression plugs that might work. The toggle wall fastener contraption shown in Figures 5-7 was made. The big rubber washer is 1/16” thick and keeps it from sliding around.
Figure 5. The hole at the right end of the crossmember is oblong, so the wellnut doesn't work. A 3/16" toggle bolt (top) was cut by 1/4" on each arm and various fender washers plus a spacer nut used. The 10-24 bolt is stainless.
Figure 6. Right crossmember hook, ready to install.
Figure 7. Right crossmember hook, installed, viewed from back seat.
Figure 8. shows all three hooks installed. More bags could be added to each one.
Figure 8. All 3 double bag hooks installed, viewed from trunk opening.
There is yet another possibility that was not attempted. Figure 9. shows one of the three child seat tether anchor points in the rear shelf with its door open. It is accessible from below, so with the back seat folded down, you could push something like a bag handle or maybe a ty-wrap up to hook in place. This may be more useful as cargo hooks like Saabs and Volvos have, which are also missing from the Model 3 trunk, suggesting another DIY project.
Figure 9. All 3 child seat anchors are accessible from above, as shown, and below.
Please comment and especially let me know if you are going to try any of these. I could provide more details and dimensions.
