Very cool. A couple of suggestions:
1) I think your pulling cable is bearing (rubbing) agains that wood cross member? Might want to feed that through an eyelet of some type so that it doesn't dig into the wood.
2) Maybe put another cable guide (similar to the one installed in the drywall where the cable comes down) to make sure that the charging cable doesn't "jump" off the cable carrier as it moves.
My biggest concern here is that I think you've lost your UL cert on the charger now? If it catches fire, you're hosed (literally!). Wonder if you could have an electrician certify it?
Haha! Being that I am a licensed master electrician, I have no worries about the electrical installation. Heh.. I don't know if you noticed in the video all the loose wire stung through the attic (it's low voltage for the strip lighting in the garage), it looks horrendous, but functional! **Advice for anyone buying a home, beware if the previous owner was an electrician, plumber, or HVAC tech.**
Oh and your observation of the pulling cable is valid. I did notice that myself after filming the video, and that will probably be addressed very soon.
As for the added cable length, a concern would be voltage drop, which in turn, increases the amperage in the circuit.
I haven't done that math, but typically we don't worry about voltage drop in runs under a couple hundred feet.
But just for fun, I'm bored and waiting on my wife to get home so lets do some math...
The charger pulls a max of 48 amps @ 240 v. That would equate to 11,520 Watts.
Now because the service at your home may not necessarily be 240 v, it's doesn't hurt to get an actual reading for accuracy.
In my case, I am consistently at 247 v phase to phase. Given this data, The charger will pull a max of 46.64 amps @ 247 v.
With out any consideration to voltage drop, we can size our wire to 6 AWG which is good for 55 amps I think.
However, lets see how long of a run we can make before our voltage drop is too significant in order to support the current draw rated for our wire. (Note* The wall charger will operate on voltages ranging from 208 v - 250 v)
Let's first take the lowest voltage the charger will even operate on as an example... 208 volts.
At 208 volts the charger would pull 55.38 amps (given our 11,520 watts)
That's a little high so lets go with 210 volts to put us just under the 55 amps the wire is rated for.
So.. now our maximum voltage drop we are looking for is 37 volts (The difference between an actual reading of 247 volts and our minimum of 210 volts).
From here we can see how long of a run of 6 AWG wire we can have before our voltage drop reaches our minimum voltage of 210 volts.
I could pull out my book and give the actual formula for voltage drop... its something like VD= 2*K*I*L/Kcmil.. unless its 3 phase and that 2 changes to 1.73... K is a constant.. 12.9 for copper and I don't remember on aluminum.. I= the load in amps, L= length of wire, Kcmil = the circular mills of the wire..... but... a voltage drop calculator is much easier.. they have apps for that....
Anyway... lets get our max drop in percentage... given 210/247=.850202 that's 14.9797% max drop (1-.850202=.149797)
If punch all the values in with a starting voltage of 247v, ending voltage of 210v (or 14.97% drop), using 6 AWG wire, and a current of 55 amps it comes out to about 760 ft.
Is a good idea?.. absolutely not. Will the charger still work?.. meh... maybe?... will it burn your house down?... not if you have correctly sized overcurrent protection.
In any case, I ran about 25 ft extra... Which equates to a 1.029 v, voltage drop.
Note** those calculations were assuming the charging cable is rated the same as the actual wall charger. I actually have no idea what the allowable voltage range at the load side is. What ever it may be, it only would be dropping by a single volt, nothing significant.
But yeah.. Thanks for the input! It's always good to have extra minds and sets of eyes and on things. I can overlook things and don't always have the best approach. Haha!
