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DIY Wireless Charging in Console Cover?

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I have an idea for integrating wireless charging with the model x/s, but wanted to pass it by you guys first. The idea is to place a wireless charging coil in between the sliding tray and the wood cover that sits on the sliding cover, mount to the pcb underneath the sliding cover, and run power from the 12v through the dock cable channel and to the wireless charger. Do you guys think this would work?
 
I have an idea for integrating wireless charging with the model x/s, but wanted to pass it by you guys first. The idea is to place a wireless charging coil in between the sliding tray and the wood cover that sits on the sliding cover, mount to the pcb underneath the sliding cover, and run power from the 12v through the dock cable channel and to the wireless charger. Do you guys think this would work?

There is a thread on this with pics
 
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If you're looking to place it into the sliding cover, chances are you're not using the cupholders anymore. If that's the case, you could also purchase the one from RPM Tesla. I believe they had several, a tray for charging; a pad for the flip cover area, and I think they have a dual charger one as well.

Otherwise if you're looking to build one, it's pretty simple. Just take some double sided take and stick it right to the underside of the cover. That lid is pretty thick, so you'll want to sand down the underside and potentially remove the wood trim if the signal doesnt reach.
 
If you're looking to place it into the sliding cover, chances are you're not using the cupholders anymore. If that's the case, you could also purchase the one from RPM Tesla. I believe they had several, a tray for charging; a pad for the flip cover area, and I think they have a dual charger one as well.

Otherwise if you're looking to build one, it's pretty simple. Just take some double sided take and stick it right to the underside of the cover. That lid is pretty thick, so you'll want to sand down the underside and potentially remove the wood trim if the signal doesnt reach.
We actually have a bunch of random stuff down there (sun glasses, tissues, etc.). I was thinking of mounting the coil to the underside, but not sure how i would be able to send it in that tight space, which is why I figured that placing the coil in between the plastic tray and the wood trim would give me a better power output
 
Agreed ..that’s why I’m waiting for rest of your pics :D:D

I should mention I've been told I'm GREAT at starting projects. Not so much with finishing them...

We actually have a bunch of random stuff down there (sun glasses, tissues, etc.). I was thinking of mounting the coil to the underside, but not sure how i would be able to send it in that tight space, which is why I figured that placing the coil in between the plastic tray and the wood trim would give me a better power output

That makes sense. We actually picked up a cubby drawer. It's done wonders for our sunglasses, lotions, etc. We still have a box of tissues tucked down there behind the cupholders though.

To get it between the wood trim would technically be possible. But now you're dealing with potentially a wavy/bulge in the trim. You could attempt to unglue it, grind down the trim a little then grind down the plastic to fit the pad inbetween; but then you'd have to drill out the plastic for the elctrical run or risk getting it caught up when the lid slides open and closed.

Speaking of which, having it in the lid; you'll have to factor in the wiring distance when the lid is open and closed. This means you're going to have excess wire when the lid is in one position compared to the other. Since it's constantly opening and closing; you'll probably want some sort of plastic flex tubing to protect it. Which then means...you have to find a way to hide the whole thing. It's all doable, and would function. It just might not be the cleanest way to get the install done, nor the easiest.
 
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I should mention I've been told I'm GREAT at starting projects. Not so much with finishing them...



That makes sense. We actually picked up a cubby drawer. It's done wonders for our sunglasses, lotions, etc. We still have a box of tissues tucked down there behind the cupholders though.

To get it between the wood trim would technically be possible. But now you're dealing with potentially a wavy/bulge in the trim. You could attempt to unglue it, grind down the trim a little then grind down the plastic to fit the pad inbetween; but then you'd have to drill out the plastic for the elctrical run or risk getting it caught up when the lid slides open and closed.

Speaking of which, having it in the lid; you'll have to factor in the wiring distance when the lid is open and closed. This means you're going to have excess wire when the lid is in one position compared to the other. Since it's constantly opening and closing; you'll probably want some sort of plastic flex tubing to protect it. Which then means...you have to find a way to hide the whole thing. It's all doable, and would function. It just might not be the cleanest way to get the install done, nor the easiest.
So for the coil, what I was thinking was literally just putting the coil in between the wood and plastic, and the pcb will be mounted under the plastic with the two qi wires running through the plastic. I currently have a 6ft cable going from the 12v to the center console areas, to charge a 2nd phone in a way that the passenger can still use their phone) so I could probably run it all the way to the back of the console and run it back towards the charger. In theory, I would only need to drill 2 small holes for the qi wires (or a slit if i don't feel like soldering the charger back together)
 
So for the coil, what I was thinking was literally just putting the coil in between the wood and plastic, and the pcb will be mounted under the plastic with the two qi wires running through the plastic. I currently have a 6ft cable going from the 12v to the center console areas, to charge a 2nd phone in a way that the passenger can still use their phone) so I could probably run it all the way to the back of the console and run it back towards the charger. In theory, I would only need to drill 2 small holes for the qi wires (or a slit if i don't feel like soldering the charger back together)

There’s no technical reason it doesn’t work. Just time and elbow grease to figure out the details. Post up some pictures and thoughts when you’re done.
 
Update to everyone interested. I was home for break and tried it out, but looks like tesla uses some sort of metal under the wood trim in that plastic piece, as the wireless charger started throwing an error message the moment i mounted it underneath. I am thinking that I might be able to cut out a small hole in the metal to mount the coil, but I don;t have a spare to try. If anyone has one of the older plastic ones and would like to donate it, PM me. I can cover shipping
 
@spectrum why did you dislike my post?
Hey! I didn't "dislike" but I disagreed that magnets would be sufficient to hold your phone there. It's a curved, wooden surface and relatively slippery. Also, during hard acceleration and/or braking, your phone could become a projectile and hit/crack your car screen or worse, fall into your pedal area and become a road hazard. :confused:

I, too have been wanting a wireless charger for my Model X but I think the tray might be the best solution, although even that's not ideal.
 
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Hey! I didn't "dislike" but I disagreed that magnets would be sufficient to hold your phone there. It's a curved, wooden surface and relatively slippery. Also, during hard acceleration and/or braking, your phone could become a projectile and hit/crack your car screen or worse, fall into your pedal area and become a road hazard. :confused:

I, too have been wanting a wireless charger for my Model X but I think the tray might be the best solution, although even that's not ideal.
Ah, gotcha. I feel liek the disagree button is usually used as more of a statement than actually to disagree. I was thinking that if you had strong enough magnets, it might work, combined with a rubbery phone case. Anyways, looks like it won;t work in the end
 
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