Do I have a SPORT motor in my BASE roadster?

[dhrivnak]

@supersnoop & @TEG: Thanks. I did not put it on performance mode. More testing then... Should I leave it in performance mode for x amount of time to warm up the battery to obtain less internal resistance (just as max battery power for PxxD models?)

No need to leave it in performance mode as warmup is minimal. But yes on the 2.X you need to be in performance mode to get maximum current flow.

 

[TEG]

And make sure the word "Performance" is in white (not red) before you do your test.

( And make sure there is nothing for quite a distance in front of you ! )

 

[ML Auto]

And make sure you charge it fully in performance mode. But I don't recall either one of my Sport models ever hitting over 700 Amps even when it read 285 ft-lbs.

 

[snd92]

Results: 700 A and 294 ftlb at 85 % SOC. (White performance)

I believe 900 A is not reachable and conclude with having a working Roadster Sport with Base badge on the PEM. If somebody has seen 900 A please shout out.

800 A could be possible at 100 % SOC. (Need to verify that, but I do not want to range charge )

 

[TEG]

sports PEM deliver up to 800A, non-sport up to 700A, both have offical 215kW. Below 7000rpm the sport produce higher torque because higher current. EMK = electric motor force? it dont know the equal translation for that. with increasing spinning ot the motor, the PEM has to increase the voltage to maintain the hight current. Current = torque

 

[snd92]

In my case something is wrong because I did obtain 294 ftlb and 264 hp with 700 A, just as @MLAUTO. 295 ftlb is max torque of any PEM!? I did a 50-120 km/h run which is within 7000 rpm I believe. Need to verify again with more testing of 0-1xx km/h.

I can even draw 700 A at 70 % SOC. Maybe it is set to display 700 A as max.

 

[TEG]

This may be helpful too:

 

[TEG]

Roadster Technoloy - Motor | Tesla Motors

...The Power Electronics Module supplies as much as 900 amps of current to the stator...

 

[snd92]

What is actually read from the orange display: PEM output, amps drawn from the battery, stator input after losses or something else? I am missing out on 200 A if it is read from PEM. Anyway, as mentioned I need to do more testing (0-1xx km/h runs at 100% SOC) before starting to attack Tesla SC.

 

[TEG]

Can you measure your 0-60 time and see if you can get close to 3.7s ?

 

[snd92]

Unfortunately I do not have a vbox or other instruments like it. I can try to log a 0-60 time using the built in computer. Only had
my Roadster for 2 months. So need to figure out how log.

Anyway, thank you for all suggestions.

 

[hcsharp]

I believe 900 A is not reachable and conclude with having a working Roadster Sport with Base badge on the PEM. If somebody has seen 900 A please shout out.

I test drove a 2.5 Sport before buying my Roadster. After charging in Perf mode and then driving in Perf mode at about 75% SOC I saw 900A on the small display.

 

[snd92]

Thanks for verifying the possibility of reading 900 A from the display, @hcsharp. Will test charging and driving in Performance mode next week.

 

[hcsharp]

There are a lot of unanswered questions here. At 900A you would be exceeding the advertised maximum wattage of the motor. Same is true at 700A for that matter. So are the amps displayed the RMS as you would expect or are they the peak amps on a sine wave? Are they amps from the battery or amps to the motor? Do any of these questions matter when trying to determine if you have a Sport model or not?

 

[snd92]

Earlier I concluded with having a Sport because I was able to read out 294 ftlb which is close to advertised value of 295.

When pulling 700 A the voltage drop should be 307 V (215 000 W / 700 A). This seams "more right" compared to 239 V with 900 A.

Where is 215 kW (288 hp) measured or is it a calculated value from amp x voltage? If the latter is true, I have the same questions as @hcsharp

 

[hcsharp]

When pulling 700 A the voltage drop should be 307 V (215 000 W / 700 A). This seams "more right" compared to 239 V with 900 A.

Except you don't know where or when the 700A is measured. Is it peak amps or RMS? Is it before the power loss of the inverter or after?

 

[gregd]

He could just have a Sport motor in an otherwise non-sport car, which by the part numver could be the case. If so, wouldn't all the instrumentation show non-sport values? Even torque; is that measured, or calculated based on what a stock motor would put out given the amps / volts being consumed? I suspect the later.

Wasn't there a thread some time ago about some non-sport cars 'feeling' peppier than they normally would?

 

[snd92]

The car is sold as a Sport with all its components except for the remanufactured PEM which is badged "Tesla Motors" corresponding to Base PEM (not "Roadster Sport"). My original question arises from this. Will this PEM have the firmware of a Sport PEM and how do I verify that I have the performance of a Sport?

 

[wiztecy]

My original question arises from this. Will this PEM have the firmware of a Sport PEM and how do I verify that I have the performance of a Sport?

Simple, find a non-sport Roadster with similar CAC values, charge them up to the same SOC level, run them in identical modes (standard, or sport), ensure the non-sport and sport have the same rotors and rims (custom 2 piece rotors vs 1 piece cast and forged rims vs cast will make the car accelerate quicker), and line them up. Question answered.

 

[gregd]

The car is sold as a Sport with all its components except for the remanufactured PEM which is badged "Tesla Motors" corresponding to Base PEM (not "Roadster Sport"). My original question arises from this. Will this PEM have the firmware of a Sport PEM and how do I verify that I have the performance of a Sport?

I expect that your PEM is correctly working as a Sport model, badges not withstanding. I have the reverse - a standard Roadster with a Sport-badged PEM. When the PEM was swapped out, I noticed the badge and asked. I was told that the badge is the only physical difference between the two, and that they change the firmware in the PEM to match the car. (Likewise, I didn't get anything by way of an upgrade with my repair ). So, ignore the badge, and enjoy the car. If it bothers you, they can swap the label (they did mine for free).