The reason for all this discussion is indeed the badge. Yes, it bothers me. To confirm that I have Sport performance I will do test runs later this week. After owning a P85D I do not believe in what Tesla says regarding performance. I am in need of numbers/proof...
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I think the "trick" with the Sport is that it holds that ~295 ft lbs to a higher RPM. Where a base roadster would start to drop off, the sport keeps delivering maximum torque longer.
It is like in the ~3500-4500 RPM rev range... Somewhere around there.
It is like in the ~3500-4500 RPM rev range... Somewhere around there.
It seems like a bigger difference than between sport and non-sport is 3.0 vs. original battery. On a standard charge just getting on the freeway in the morning I get (very briefly) 230 kW, and with a full charge and performance mode I saw 243 kW. That's about 325 hp.
IIRC, the difference between sport and non-sport was about torque, not about power. It was able to draw more current at lower speed, so it got to the place where the battery power was the limit more quickly and then had the same curve as the non-sport. With the 3.0 (and a full-ish battery) the voltage is higher, so you get more power out of the same current, which should help throughout the curve.
I'd love to see someone compare all the different models (1.5, 2.0, 2.0 sport, 1.5->3.0, 2.0->3.0, 2.0 sport ->3.0 sport) on a drag strip. If anyone sets it up in the Pacific Northwest, I'll bring my 2.0->3.0.
IIRC, the difference between sport and non-sport was about torque, not about power. It was able to draw more current at lower speed, so it got to the place where the battery power was the limit more quickly and then had the same curve as the non-sport. With the 3.0 (and a full-ish battery) the voltage is higher, so you get more power out of the same current, which should help throughout the curve.
I'd love to see someone compare all the different models (1.5, 2.0, 2.0 sport, 1.5->3.0, 2.0->3.0, 2.0 sport ->3.0 sport) on a drag strip. If anyone sets it up in the Pacific Northwest, I'll bring my 2.0->3.0.
Agree. What is the amperage you read with 3.0? Is it limited to 700 A? Where is this value read at? (PEM, motor, stator...)
According to Tesla the Sport PEM should supply 900 A.
From the same link: The current creates a second magnetic field in the rotor that chases the rotating stator field. The end result is torque.
This conclude that the Sport has more torque due to higher current (unit in amperage)
I believe you can pull more power (hp, kW) due to lower voltage drop with the new 3.0 pack.
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I hadn't looked, which gave me an excuse to have fun getting on the freeway this morning. I topped out at 681A, so I assume that the current is the same as on the 2.0 non-sport and the extra power is just because of higher voltage.
Update:
- PEM badge was swapped (Now Roadster Sport, previously TESLA MOTORS).
- New dampers on both fronts. (adjusted to 7 front, 10 rear)
- Anti-roll bar adjusted to loosest/outer hole setting (front) and stiffest/inner hole (rear)
- Annual/Full service
- TPMS is working
- CAC = 152 - 154 Ah (If that matters for the power output?)
I can finally confirm that I have a Roadster Sport 2.0 (215 kW, 295 ft lbs, 700 A shown on orange display)
- PEM badge was swapped (Now Roadster Sport, previously TESLA MOTORS).
- New dampers on both fronts. (adjusted to 7 front, 10 rear)
- Anti-roll bar adjusted to loosest/outer hole setting (front) and stiffest/inner hole (rear)
- Annual/Full service
- TPMS is working
- CAC = 152 - 154 Ah (If that matters for the power output?)
I can finally confirm that I have a Roadster Sport 2.0 (215 kW, 295 ft lbs, 700 A shown on orange display)
spaceballs
Member
I've never seen more than 700A displayed, then again I never charge in perf mode either.
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