Do I Need New Sway Bar Links?

[ChooseFreedom]

Nothing special. It may help to have a second jack or something to rest the hub on so you can relieve the stress from the sway bar on the knuckle and removee the end link easier. Other than that, basic sockets.

Yeah, I'll be putting the front on jack stands to equalize the lift.
I saw on a repair video how the upper bolt may want to spin when tightening the nut, and recommended having a pair of needle nose locking plyers.
I just hate to go to all the trouble of getting the car jacked up, wheels off, link swapped, and then find out I can't tighten the damn nut enough. And then have to go to Lowes or somewhere and buy a tool.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Yeah, I'll be putting the front on jack stands to equalize the lift.
I saw on a repair video how the upper bolt may want to spin when tightening the nut, and recommended having a pair of needle nose locking plyers.
I just hate to go to all the trouble of getting the car jacked up, wheels off, link swapped, and then find out I can't tighten the damn nut enough. And then have to go to Lowes or somewhere and buy a tool.

I was able to avoid players by just using an impact wrench and putting a little “torque” on the nut (push down on the impact while it’s turning).

 

[ChooseFreedom]

Well folks,
I did the sway bar link swap this weekend, but no help. Didn't eliminate the knock in the front right at slow speed while turning left over bumps (almost exclusively when it occurs). I wasn't able to test any other areas like the control arms or links.
So the sway bar link was the cheapest and easiest possible cause. Now that I've eliminated it, what would be the next most likely causes?
Control arms/links? Tie rod? Steering rack?
And of those, if I attempt to DIY, are they going to require an alignment afterward?

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Well folks,
I did the sway bar link swap this weekend, but no help. Didn't eliminate the knock in the front right at slow speed while turning left over bumps (almost exclusively when it occurs). I wasn't able to test any other areas like the control arms or links.
So the sway bar link was the cheapest and easiest possible cause. Now that I've eliminated it, what would be the next most likely causes?
Control arms/links? Tie rod? Steering rack?
And of those, if I attempt to DIY, are they going to require an alignment afterward?

Next step, I'd say jack up the front right corner, take off the plastic under-hood trim over the shock tower, unscrew the air line (on top) to the strut so that all of the suspenion components move freely. Then, grab the hub and jiggle the hell out of it. That will help you see where any suspension looseness is coming from.

When you're done, put the line back on, lower down on the jack, and turn off jack-mode and the car will re-level.

 

[ChooseFreedom]

Next step, I'd say jack up the front right corner, take off the plastic under-hood trim over the shock tower, unscrew the air line (on top) to the strut so that all of the suspenion components move freely. Then, grab the hub and jiggle the hell out of it. That will help you see where any suspension looseness is coming from.

When you're done, put the line back on, lower down on the jack, and turn off jack-mode and the car will re-level.

Would your instructions be the same for coils? I don't have air ride.

 

[philip295]

Well folks,
I did the sway bar link swap this weekend, but no help. Didn't eliminate the knock in the front right at slow speed while turning left over bumps (almost exclusively when it occurs). I wasn't able to test any other areas like the control arms or links.
So the sway bar link was the cheapest and easiest possible cause. Now that I've eliminated it, what would be the next most likely causes?
Control arms/links? Tie rod? Steering rack?
And of those, if I attempt to DIY, are they going to require an alignment afterward?

I had a knocking noise over bumps. It was the towing hook bouncing under the carpet in the frunk.

 

[ChooseFreedom]

I had a knocking noise over bumps. It was the towing hook bouncing under the carpet in the frunk.

I wish it were that simple.
My tow hook is there as well, in it's weird place. But my knocking only occurs at low speed, when turning (pretty much always left).
I haven't noticed it consistently over any other bumps.

A couple months ago I swapped wheels from my stock 19"s to the OEM 21"s. But my knocking was pre-existing, and I didn't notice an immediate worsening of the knocking after the swap, so I don't believe the wheels have an effect.

And I've always been very careful not to turn my wheels very far whenever I have to reverse down an incline. As I've read threads about that causing issues with the lower links.

Does anyone have experience with a steering rack going bad? If so, what were the symptoms/signs?

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Would your instructions be the same for coils? I don't have air ride.

For coils, I suppose you'd want to remove the lower mount bolt so you can relieve the force on the suspension components. I haven't worked on an S with coils though, so YRMV. The whole point is to be able to move the suspension components freely so you can shake them around and see where the noise is coming from.