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Do you have shudder on hard acceleration? AKA death rattle?
- Thread starter dk10438
- Start date
Just took the car into the Fremont shop for this issue. 2018 Model S 100D - Dec 2018 Build (Non-Performance)
First showed the SA/Technician a recorded video that produced the ratting noise. Then we went off for a test drive and right there on the spot, we were able to replicate the noise by flooring it/hard acceleration.
At first, I thought it only happened in the morning, as I recall the times I've encountered the rattling, it was early in the morning but clearly during the test drive, we were able to replicate it. They are going to replace the half shafts, and something else, I can't recall what it is. Anyhow, they are keeping my car for a couple days. Didn't get a loaner but got a $300 Uber voucher.
Asked about the HW2.5 to HW3 retrofit but was told once it's ready, I will get an alert as it goes by VIN, which was fine with me.. I just had to ask.
First showed the SA/Technician a recorded video that produced the ratting noise. Then we went off for a test drive and right there on the spot, we were able to replicate the noise by flooring it/hard acceleration.
At first, I thought it only happened in the morning, as I recall the times I've encountered the rattling, it was early in the morning but clearly during the test drive, we were able to replicate it. They are going to replace the half shafts, and something else, I can't recall what it is. Anyhow, they are keeping my car for a couple days. Didn't get a loaner but got a $300 Uber voucher.
Asked about the HW2.5 to HW3 retrofit but was told once it's ready, I will get an alert as it goes by VIN, which was fine with me.. I just had to ask.
My 2015 MS P90DL has the same issue. Taking the car to SC Tyco Rd, Tysons Corner on 1/10. Will let you all know the outcome.
You need to have the whole rear differential repaired including the motor replaced most likely. I had this happen 3 times to one of my P90DL’s. If it happens whenever you accelerate from a stop almost like it’s not getting traction or bumpy the rear diff and motor need to be replaced
3x In 20k miles lol. I like to time my cars haha
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No do not do that. That will only lead to more problems. This is what caused almost every +suspension to be replaced and than ultimately discontinued. Tesla specifically states to put your car in the low setting during launch mode. If you lowered it than you can adjust accordingly
I asked them to lower my suspension and they said it be unsafe for the battery. I therefore lowered the car myself 1" with 3d printed lowering links. Haven't had the shudder come back in 40K miles.
Have you had you rear differential and motor replaced. If you have you would know that you would have a similar effect caused from it. I had mine replaced 3x the feeling was a shaking and loss of traction almost when accelerating.
And if you are still having it and have to lower your car to get rid of it than your fixing the right thing cause it shouldn’t happen regardless based on the ride height. The ride height has nothing to do with if you think that’s the solution. It could be suspension issue but regardless just cause you lowered your car to remedy it but still have it when it’s not lowered than you didn’t fix the issue. Many cars with + suspension had the same issue but had to have the + suspension removed to fix it since they don’t make the parts for the + suspension. Almost every P85D with + suspension and over 65k miles no longer have the + suspension.
Either way the problem isn’t resolved just by lowering your car. If you cannot get rid of it when it’s not lowered you didn’t resolve the issue it shouldn’t be happening at all.
What is your current ride height? If I stick wooden plank in right behind the front wheel, the stack measures ~113 mm in standard. How does that compare to yours?
boonedocks
MS LR Blk/Blk 19”
Would you mind posting your invoice showing the parts list of what was installed on your 4 month old Raven S. My service center has been giving me the runaround that the drive shafts are a “special” part and they can’t get them yet.
boonedocks, my invoice is here on another thread that discusses an NHTSA Service Bulletin. The only difference is my invoice, on post #132, doesn't mention a Clevis mount. Also, I don't know why one of my half-shafts is gen1 and the other gen2:
Service Bulletin out on Hard Acceleration "Shudder"
When the SC ordered the part, what arrived was initially the wrong part and they had to overnight the correct parts. Make sure they get you the 'D' part(s).
boonedocks
MS LR Blk/Blk 19”
Maybe that’s why I am “on hold” as they “say” the wrong part has been sent 2 times now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I'm not saying that something else couldn't cause shaking, but that's not the cause of those who've experienced this issue in this thread.
From a different point, mine measure 705 mm from the ground to the top of the fenders when set to lowest. It's exactly the same height that it used to before Tesla raised all air suspension cars by 1" back in 2014 with a software update due to fears of battery strikes.
Yea I have never had the issue that you had but the same feeling or similar happens when the rear differential and motor needs to be replaced. It will shake and not get the traction it usually would. Almost like it’s stuttering. I know I had these issues cause I would do a lot of 0-60mph times and just using max battery often like I would only makes these issues happen more often. Which is why they have done a lot of these updates cause they are probably tired of having to replace the same parts constantly but it’s their own fault for making cars that cannot handle doing the things owners bought them for. Elon had such a hard on about constantly wanting to make the cars faster and faster which in turn made owners like myself keep buying them. So it worked but trying to take away the performance capabilities or in most the cases here that have your issue, and not properly diagnosing it and repairing it correctly is complete BS. They know what the issue really is and have chosen not to properly fix it under warranty.
This is why I have always spoken negatively about a lot of things Tesla had done in the past even tho I love the car. I just don’t respect how they go about running the business and it only seems like it’s getting worse again. In the past there were so many shady things they did and got caught doing. Back than there were a lot more owners on here who would figure out the shady stuff they did who were very knowledgeable. I feel like most probably stopped buying Tesla’s just like many more owners and potential owners will after they continue to do more shady updates recently. I personally don’t like that they can do any updates anymore cuz most only do things that don’t help compared to updates that do. There definitely needs to be some kind of changes and regulations regarding the updates that Tesla does. Especially since they will force them now or try to void warranties if you don’t do them. They decided to give all these great warranties to get more buyers so they need to stand by the perks they chose to provide which contributed to many buyers buying their cars.
Even the whole FUSC situation where they now won’t transfer is kind of bogus especially when they try to do it with cars that never had any type of fine print saying it wouldn’t transfer like they do now. I take anything they say with a grain of salt cause most the stuff will never happen. And I personally think they are extremely stupid for not taking care of the owners who have purchased their cars from the beginning since the most valuable thing you can have when running any business is loyal and repeat customers.
Just the fact they claim that 2015-2016 P90L’s are capable of 2.6 seconds 0-60mph and 270 miles of range really pisses me off. They only get 253 miles of range are are only capable of around 2.9-3 seconds 0-60mph. Only the 2016.5 is able to get 270 miles of range and only a few have ever done 0-60mph in 2.6 seconds. I’m one of the few people that owned one that could.
Like in this picture, these is complete bullshit that they can advertise these numbers when they are completely false. I don’t understand how they can get away with this BS
Just like the Plaid Model S, the only reason he did all that was cuz Porsche made an ev superior to theirs as far as performance goes. I personally don’t think the Plaid will ever come out. They basically just put the Roadster setup in a Model S to try to break Porsche’s time. The problem is that Porsche figured out how to keep the cars from overheating so they can be capable of their performance capabilities even when they have done 20 launches in a row or are at 50% of their SOC something Tesla still hasn’t figured out how to do yet even with the Plaid and they stand no chance of duplicating the handling of a Porsche as that is something no other car manufacturers have ever been able to do. I don’t even like most Porsche’s besides the Panamera, Taycan and of course the 918 which is probably my favorite car of any ever made, but I’ll give them props cuz they always have the fastest cars on tracks year after year. Regardless if they are the fastest 0-60mph. They are superior at handling than any car and it’s not even close.
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The issue I had is the issue nearly everyone else in this thread had. There are dozens of threads with hundreds of posts covering Tesla's faulty front cv joint design and their most recent attempt to redesign it. In over 6000 posts and over a million read, I've never heard of the issue you're talking about.
Really it’s probably one of the most common problems that happens and in non AWD Tesla’s it will leave u stranded if you don’t notice issues with it beforehand. Most people don’t know it needs to be replaced until it completely shuts down and aren’t able to drive.
They just end up replacing the whole rear drive unit which is the motor and differential but usually it’s not necessary to replace the entire unit just easier for Tesla to do rather than taking it apart and repairing either bearings in the unit or the motor, etc. I think every single time I’ve been to a service center I see a Tesla having it done since they literally drop the car onto it (which is the wheels attached to the entire rear drive unit/rear differential, motor, axle, etc) and is by far one of the most common issues. For anyone who accelerates often it usually will happen within the first 10k miles or less and can happen several times as it happened 3x times to my P90DL in less than 20k miles. So I don’t know what issues you read about but it’s one of the most common out of any especially in performance models.
Maybe the term differential is not something you know and only would know the issue being referred to as the rear drive unit.
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