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Does a Tesla Y make financial sense for me

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I run my own one man Ltd and have gone down the business contract purchase route. I was going to lease, however didn't want to be stuck with having to pay half lease payments back if I decide to close my Ltd down in the duration of the lease.

Accountant confirmed it would be far more prudent to purchase via the Ltd with approx 20% down payment from profits. Get the first year Corp tax write off and BIK is only 2% for this and next tax year.

Pick up next week. Just need to sort insurance now and good to go.
 
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Different people can prefer different kinds of driver assist features. I happen to like Basic Autopilot a lot, and some months I have subscribed to Full Self Driving. The full version does make road trips with lots of limited-access road driving much less tiring, at least for me. You really should test out Tesla's implementation for yourself, especially if you're thinking about buying the FSD outright outright.

With FSD, you can set it to make lane changes for passing all by itself, without the need for confirmation, at least in the U.S. I still haven't tried that on months I've had it, but I can see myself using it eventually.

To get a sense of the different types of Active Driver Assistance Systems (ADAS) available, you may be interested in watching this new series from an American YouTube channel that tests a lot of electric and ICE cars.

Welcome To The Hogback ADAS Trials! Our New Driver Assistance Challenge
 
I think you miss the point here.
Tesla AP works like this: AP enabled -> Use Turn Indicator -> Is it safe? If yes - you, as a driver change lane -> Driver has enable AP again.
Tesla eAP works like this: AP enabled -> If you use turn indicator -> car checks if it's safe - proposes change - You have to approve it by yanking steering wheel a bit. -> car changes lanes -> auto enables AP again.
Driver assist in BMW works like this: DA enabled -> use turn indicator -> Is it safe? If yes - you, as a driver change lane -> car automatically re-enables DA.

Other solutions is more or less a mix between Ap and eAP. only thing, eAP comes as additional pricy option and other's put it as standard.
I have one of each on my drive, and I'm on a motorway within 5 minutes of leaving the door everyday. I know how to operate and the relative merits. eAP needs no 'yanking steering wheel', just continue to indicate your presence with slight torque, entirely natural once you are used to it.

NOA also proposes the lane change as long as it's not too busy, and indicates it's safe. I verify this then move the indicator stalk, that's about it, lane changed.

Also, I'm pretty sure that DA is a £1250 option on a new automatic 3 series BMW, not standard, or as part of the Technology Pack plus (with auto-park, wireless charging etc) for £3650. It's only on 5 series where it becomes standard, which isn't the class typically compared to a Tesla 3 or Y.
 
Different people can prefer different kinds of driver assist features. I happen to like Basic Autopilot a lot, and some months I have subscribed to Full Self Driving. The full version does make road trips with lots of limited-access road driving much less tiring, at least for me. You really should test out Tesla's implementation for yourself, especially if you're thinking about buying the FSD outright outright.

With FSD, you can set it to make lane changes for passing all by itself, without the need for confirmation, at least in the U.S. I still haven't tried that on months I've had it, but I can see myself using it eventually.

To get a sense of the different types of Active Driver Assistance Systems (ADAS) available, you may be interested in watching this new series from an American YouTube channel that tests a lot of electric and ICE cars.

Welcome To The Hogback ADAS Trials! Our New Driver Assistance Challenge
This is the UK forum, the capabilities of our Enhanced AutoPilot and FSD are different from the US.
 
Blind spot camera is on few more cars (and tesla standard AP) But Tesla's implementation is horrible. Location of the camera window is blocked by the left arm. More over it is completely counter intuitive to turn signal right and look bottom left for the screen. Simple indicator with light on the mirror is a much better way to do it. At least I wish Tesla would allow to set where to place the camera window.

Agree with all that in terms of actual blind spot assistance, my point was on in relation to Navigate-on-autopilot proposing a lane change and also bringing on the blind spot camera display (before any signalling has taken place etc.) which I find useful as my attention is drawn to the screen by the notice recommending changing lanes (e.g. to not miss my exit!) and at the same time the blind spot camera view is on display.

Please correct me if I am wrong but your confirmation of lane change is done via yanking wheel?

Sorry, I wasn't clear.

If you don't have EAP/FSD then to change lane on motorway you can #1 signal (AP disabled immediately to enable you to steer, as normal), or if you don't signal you have to #2 "yank" the wheel. The amount of effort to steer to overcome AP is dependent on APs confidence at that time - which on a straight motorway will usually be high, compared to a sharp bend where [AP confidence is lower/very low] only a light touch is needed to overcome AP steering.

Maybe in practice noone does the "yank the wheel" and uses turn signal instead, which is no doubt A Good Thing given the number of people I see on motorway who happily change lanes into my path with no signalling !

For EAP/FSD lane change confirmation you signal and must also be "indicating presence" on the wheel. All that means is that you cannot signal and also have your hands off the steering wheel :)

I drive on AP with one had and 4 O'Clock and the weight of my hand/arm provides the rotational torque that the car needs to "indicate presence". That's also sufficient for change-lane, so basically in order to confirm, I just keep my hand on the wheel, as normal, and signal.
 
Would really be keen to get a Tesla y main reason is I drive a lot of motorway miles and think with the autopilot would take a lot of stress away. will it ?
As others have said, there are lots of similar systems on the market and some arguably better on motorways in the uk. Tesla just completely ignores our variable speed limits. There’s a video here comparing the Tesla and BMW system and while some lean towards the Tesla, some lean towards the BMW as being better, the performance can often be down to the conditions on the day or the roads driven or the software version.


Currently drive an A class and drive around 25k a year the lease payment is around £380 a month. Petrol is around £100 a week.

Looking at quotes for a Tesla I would be around £700 - £800 a month I know I can claim 50% of the vat back but how much would it cost me to charge at home every night. I am already with Ocotupus can you add the home charging part without taking out a new contract as I am fixed and don’t want the bills to sky rocket.

Forgot to mention I am a small Ltd company don’t have the funds to buy outright but could lease thank you

The payments in the company will before tax w/o you’re immediately looking at quite a reduction. Don’t forget BIK but also if you claim a lot of business miles, a privately owned car is still 45p a mile, a company EV is 5p.

Charging costs are however going up, but so is petrol. It’s easiest to work out these things by mile rather than by tank or full battery. The cost per mile is roughly 1/3 of the kWh cost. It can be lower or higher, but this should cover charging inefficiency, vampire drain etc. The car only really reports the best case from the battery which might be nearer 1/4 the cost. You can plug in your own numbers to see the cost. It can be harder to work out when you mix public charging as this is either free or much higher!
 
I'd kind of ignore the way things are priced and just look at what the total cost is for what you want. It's all down to how they package these things and a car sold for £50k with something is really the same price as a car listed at £48k with a £2k option. BMW i4 for instance in the M50 gives you a free paint colour but you wouldn't suggest its bad that Tesla want however much for a different colour to white. Same with the seat colours.

The systems I've driven all perform pretty well and Tesla don't have a monopoly here. I'd certainly put no (or very very little) phantom braking and half a chance at reading a variable speed limit on the motorway an advantage over automatic lane change.

Cost wise, my petrol cars were reasonably thirsty and I recon my running costs are probably half, also helped by the zero VED and little to no servicing (you still need tyres etc). What I would say is you can run cars cheaper than leasing a new Tesla if you don't mind buying an older, efficient car with lowish depreciation, but you're not going to get some of the tech. Cars like the BMW iX3 are probably in the same bracket as a MY for size (the BMW is probably smaller inside and not as fast) but as a Model 3 driver I know where my money would go, but that's probably the same for everyone on a Tesla website.
 
Yeah, that is not entirely true.

Firstly, enhanced AP cost shitload of money.
Secondly, you still have to "confirm" the lane change. In the end of a day ot is more or less same as to change lane by yourself.

Moreover, you need to apply torque/weight on steering wheel vs touch sensitivity implemented by others.
EAP does cost money. Compared with the price of the car, not so much.

Having had EAP on all of our Teslas I’d say it’s pretty good. Imperfect. But good.

The ‘auto’ lane change is effective. Though the British nanny time out is a frustration.

EAP also gets you autopark. Though the implementation on Model 3 and Model Y seems frighteningly fast/jerky compared with Model S. handy though.

For the OP, I got a Model S back in 1998 to ease a weekly commute between Cambridge & Manchester. Provided you’re not a Mad Max type the EAP option makes for a great assistant on long journeys. With the electric drive, charging stops, and general Tesla experience it made a typically awful journey almost something to look forward to.

EAP was a significant improvement over ACC on the MB that preceded my Model S. not sure that there was much price difference either.

‘Financial sense’. That’s a different thing. Many variables. You may want to model running costs of your MB vs a Model Y: finance+fuel+maintenance+insurance+tax incentives might be the major factors. Consider a range of fuel prices.

The A class (even the SUV-like one) is a different thing size-wise from a Model Y so your comparison is already a bit skewed.

I’d guess a Tesla would still cost more. But nicer for long drives than what you’re driving now, no emissions from driving, and a significantly bigger boot.
 
Would really be keen to get a Tesla y main reason is I drive a lot of motorway miles and think with the autopilot would take a lot of stress away. will it ?

Currently drive an A class and drive around 25k a year the lease payment is around £380 a month. Petrol is around £100 a week.

Looking at quotes for a Tesla I would be around £700 - £800 a month I know I can claim 50% of the vat back but how much would it cost me to charge at home every night. I am already with Ocotupus can you add the home charging part without taking out a new contract as I am fixed and don’t want the bills to sky rocket.

Forgot to mention I am a small Ltd company don’t have the funds to buy outright but could lease thank you


Translation:

I want a Tesla and need to justify it to those around me lol
 
Your smart meter collects the half hourly readings (for Octopus Go), stores them, and sends them when it has connectivity. Occasional connection may well be ok.
I’m already with Octopus. May well talk to them about it when the car is here. Slightly worried that the high standard rate will wipe out savings from the low overnight rate for us as we’re not doing big miles in the car all that often
 
I’m already with Octopus. May well talk to them about it when the car is here. Slightly worried that the high standard rate will wipe out savings from the low overnight rate for us as we’re not doing big miles in the car all that often
According to my spreadsheet and home usage, breakeven happens around 8,000 miles. I'm doing 13,000 atm so will be making a saving...
 
According to my spreadsheet and home usage, breakeven happens around 8,000 miles. I'm doing 13,000 atm so will be making a saving...
Our house sits at about 1000W background draw (don’t ask!) and we do about 5000 miles a year. Our roof is not ideal so only have a small PV system so we are drawing power during the day some of the time, especially in winter. Can’t see it working for us sadly
 
I’m already with Octopus. May well talk to them about it when the car is here. Slightly worried that the high standard rate will wipe out savings from the low overnight rate for us as we’re not doing big miles in the car all that often
In our own situation we use roughly the same kWh per year for the car as for the house so it’s an easy calculation in that the effective average overall kWh rate is halfway between the peak rate and the off peak rate. (Otherwise it’s easy to set up a mini spreadsheet that you can put in different kWh consumption off peak and peak for car and house. )
 
I run my own one man Ltd and have gone down the business contract purchase route. I was going to lease, however didn't want to be stuck with having to pay half lease payments back if I decide to close my Ltd down in the duration of the lease.

Accountant confirmed it would be far more prudent to purchase via the Ltd with approx 20% down payment from profits. Get the first year Corp tax write off and BIK is only 2% for this and next tax year.

Pick up next week. Just need to sort insurance now and good to go.
How will company did you go with for this thanks