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Does anyone charge from a regular outlet?

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How important it is to convert a normal outlet to GFCI? My current condo situation limits me to use only the 120V outlet in the garage. So, just wondering if I need to replace it with GFCI.
A GFCI is now required by code in a garage or outdoors, kitchen, bath etc. When the condo was built if the GFCI was required at that time it would have been installed. You don't have to upgrade your condo garage receptacle to a GFCI if you don't want to. (The Tesla Mobile Connector already has a GFCI for the charging cord and charging connector.) Sometimes having more than one GFCI on a circuit can cause issues with false ground faults.

If the receptacle is more than 5 years old it would worth replacing with a new receptacle. Time, moisture, dirt and corrosion can take their toll and the receptacle may not make a tight connection with the plug. Spend a little more for a contractor grade receptacle. Don't buy the cheap receptacles sold loose from bins. Always use the screw down terminals on the receptacle for connecting the wires. Never use the push in connections located on the back of the receptacle.
 
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Hi there!
Still getting used to the technical terms so bare with me!

My husband has a Tesla as well and got the 14-50 installed since he commutes for work on weekdays. I work from home & barely drive my car so I just plug mine into a regular outlet to keep it plugged in (also keep it charged to 50% throughout the week).

I know charging is slow, and I’m okay with it since I don’t go anywhere, but I just wanted to see if this is okay on my outlet? I usually unplug it from the outlet when I am out all day with the car but most of the time, it’s plugged in to the outlet and into the car.

Am I overworking it?

Thanks for your help/ input in advance!
I've been charging my car from a standard outlet since I picked it up at the end of March while I wait for my electrician to get his act together. I too unplug from the outlet, but it's probably not a good idea long term as it will eventually cause the outlet to become loose. I'm having a HPWC installed so I'm not charging during peak times and if I need to go long distance somewhere I can charge relatively quickly.

My mobile connector sits on a rack, however, I don't like having the cable trailing on the floor to the car, so I rest it on 5 gallon bucket at it's half way point to help take some pressure off the connector when it's charging.
 
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I plan on using the 120V outlet in my garage. I do have a Maytag freezer plugged in the garage as well. I think I will be OK because I tested the circuit by plugging in a 1500W space heater in the same plug I will use to charge my Tesla. I let it run for 4 hours (with freezer obviously plugged into another outlet in garage) and had no issues.
 
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I plan on using the 120V outlet in my garage. I do have a Maytag freezer plugged in the garage as well. I think I will be OK because I tested the circuit by plugging in a 1500W space heater in the same plug I will use to charge my Tesla. I let it run for 4 hours (with freezer obviously plugged into another outlet in garage) and had no issues.
Determine if the circuit breaker for the garage outlet is labeled 15 or 20. A 15 amp circuit can only be safely used to charge at the higher 12 amp charging setting if there are no other appliances plugged in, running on the same circuit. If the 15 amp circuit is being shared, i.e. with a freezer then you should set the Tesla to charge at a maximum of 8 amps. (If this is a 20 amp circuit you can safely charge at a maximum of 16 amps if there is nothing else plugged in, running on the same circuit else set the Tesla to charge at a maximum of 12 amps.)

A 1500W rated space heater cycles on and off. When charging a plug-in vehicle or an EV the circuit must be able to support the rated load for many hours without overheating the wiring or receptacle.
 
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Determine if the circuit breaker for the garage outlet is labeled 15 or 20. A 15 amp circuit can only be safely used to charge at the higher 12 amp charging setting if there are no other appliances plugged in, running on the same circuit. If the 15 amp circuit is being shared, i.e. with a freezer then you should set the Tesla to charge at a maximum of 8 amps. (If this is a 20 amp circuit you can safely charge at a maximum of 16 amps if there is nothing else plugged in, running on the same circuit else set the Tesla to charge at a maximum of 12 amps.)
It is 15. But when I tested it, the heater was drawing 12-12.5 amps (on high heat) and I read that the freezer draws 5 amps, (more on startup). However, I ran both of them for 4-5 hours with no breaker trips or anything out of the ordinary?
 
It is 15. But when I tested it, the heater was drawing 12-12.5 amps (on high heat) and I read that the freezer draws 5 amps, (more on startup). However, I ran both of them for 4-5 hours with no breaker trips or anything out of the ordinary?
The freezer isn’t running continuously. And neither is the heater. They are both on but not both drawing peak at the same time. If they were then the breaker would trip. You shouldn’t continuously draw more than 80% or 12 amps. If they were and the breaker doesn’t trip then you have a much bigger issue and fire risk.
 
It is 15. But when I tested it, the heater was drawing 12-12.5 amps (on high heat) and I read that the freezer draws 5 amps, (more on startup). However, I ran both of them for 4-5 hours with no breaker trips or anything out of the ordinary?
The rule when charging an EV is to de-rate the circuit to 80% of maximum. A 15A circuit that can otherwise support a maximum of 15 amps, when charging an EV, must be limited to a maximum of 12 amps for safety. If you set the Tesla to charge at 8 amps, the freezer adds 4 amps to the load, pushing the load to the 12 amp 80% limit when charging an EV.

You should not attempt to charge the Tesla (or any plug-in vehicle) at more than 8 amps on a 15A rated circuit that is shared with other appliances. What could happen if you overload the circuit is the wiring or the receptacle could overheat and start an electrical fire. In the end it's your house so do whatever you think is best. Just know that you are taking a big risk.
 
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The rule when charging an EV is to de-rate the circuit to 80% of maximum. A 15A circuit that can otherwise support a maximum of 15 amps, when charging an EV, must be limited to a maximum of 12 amps for safety. If you set the Tesla to charge at 8 amps, the freezer adds 4 amps to the load, pushing the load to the 12 amp 80% limit when charging an EV.

You should not attempt to charge the Tesla (or any plug-in vehicle) at more than 8 amps on a 15A rated circuit that is shared with other appliances. What could happen if you overload the circuit is the wiring or the receptacle could overheat and start an electrical fire. In the end it's your house so do whatever you think is best. Just know that you are taking a big risk.
Thanks for that info. I absolutely don't want to do anything that would risk a fire. You seem to know a lot about the topic and I appreciate your input.
I thought my 15A breaker was labeled incorrectly since the heater and freezer were both running simultaneously for 4-5 hours with no issues. None of the wires felt hot or abnormal so I don't know what was going on. Another user said they weren't running continuously... but they were at some point during the 4-5 hours. The heater was on the whole time (even oscillating) and the freezer would cycle on and off like normal operation.

If I set the charger for 8A, do I have to set it at 8A every time or will it remember? How many miles/hour will I get at 8A?
 
Thanks for that info. I absolutely don't want to do anything that would risk a fire. You seem to know a lot about the topic and I appreciate your input.
I thought my 15A breaker was labeled incorrectly since the heater and freezer were both running simultaneously for 4-5 hours with no issues. None of the wires felt hot or abnormal so I don't know what was going on. Another user said they weren't running continuously... but they were at some point during the 4-5 hours. The heater was on the whole time (even oscillating) and the freezer would cycle on and off like normal operation.

If I set the charger for 8A, do I have to set it at 8A every time or will it remember? How many miles/hour will I get at 8A?
It should remember via GPS and home setting to keep it at 8 amps after you set it the first time.

I’d estimate about 2 miles per hour at 8 amp for MY.
 
SOOOOO many people waste big money having a NEMA 14-50 or HPWC installed when they could get by just fine on 120V. My wife's Model Y is very happy on 120V. If we know we have a long trip I can just swap it to my parking spot where I have a self-installed NEMA 6-20 that cost me $15 in parts.
I w been using the 120 as well and get by just fine in my new model y long range I wake up to 70-80% each day and only drive about 50 miles a day. Plenty of fun driving to and from work.
 
Thanks for that info. I absolutely don't want to do anything that would risk a fire. You seem to know a lot about the topic and I appreciate your input.
I thought my 15A breaker was labeled incorrectly since the heater and freezer were both running simultaneously for 4-5 hours with no issues. None of the wires felt hot or abnormal so I don't know what was going on. Another user said they weren't running continuously... but they were at some point during the 4-5 hours. The heater was on the whole time (even oscillating) and the freezer would cycle on and off like normal operation.

If I set the charger for 8A, do I have to set it at 8A every time or will it remember? How many miles/hour will I get at 8A?
The compressor in the freezer is powered by an electric motor. Electric motors will draw up to their maximum rated current briefly during startup and then the current draw drops during the running operation of the motor. Without an ammeter connected to the freezer the startup current and running current can only be estimated based on the appliance rating. (Electric motors tend to draw more current as they age.)

With the freezer and the space heater operating you were probably right at the limit of tripping the 15 amp circuit breaker. Circuit breakers will trip for one of two conditions; A) a sudden over current condition or B) thermal overheating of the circuit breaker over a period of time.

You may have to set the Tesla to the 8 amp setting each time you start charging. Even if the Tesla normally remembers the 120V charging amperage setting you would want to verify that the setting has not reverted to the default (I'm not sure if the default when charging at 120V is the 12 amp setting.)

In my experience (not with my Tesla Model Y but with my 2017 Chevy Volt) 120V/8A charging would net 2.7 miles per hour of charging (~27 miles after 10 hours of continuous charging.) The Tesla Model Y is probably similar as the Tesla charging adapter page shows 3 miles per hour of charging for the NEMA 5-15 plug adapter. (In my experience charging at 120V/8A was fine for up to 30 miles per day as long as you can charge for 11 or more hours per day when the vehicle is parked. An ideal situation would be where you could charge for at least part of the day while at work. This would reduce the time required for 120V charging at home.

Gen 2 NEMA Adapters
 
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The compressor in the freezer is powered by an electric motor. Electric motors will draw up to their maximum rated current briefly during startup and then the current draw drops during the running operation of the motor. Without an ammeter connected to the freezer the startup current and running current can only be estimated based on the appliance rating. (Electric motors tend to draw more current as they age.)

With the freezer and the space heater operating you were probably right at the limit of tripping the 15 amp circuit breaker. Circuit breakers will trip for one of two conditions; A) a sudden over current condition or B) thermal overheating of the circuit breaker over a period of time.

You may have to set the Tesla to the 8 amp setting each time you start charging. Even if the Tesla normally remembers the 120V charging amperage setting you would want to verify that the setting has not reverted to the default (I'm not sure if the default when charging at 120V is the 12 amp setting.)

In my experience (not with my Tesla Model Y but with my 2017 Chevy Volt) 120V/8A charging would net 2.7 miles per hour of charging (~27 miles after 10 hours of continuous charging.) The Tesla Model Y is probably similar as the Tesla charging adapter page shows 3 miles per hour of charging for the NEMA 5-15 plug adapter. (In my experience charging at 120V/8A was fine for up to 30 miles per day as long as you can charge for 11 or more hours per day when the vehicle is parked. An ideal situation would be where you could charge for at least part of the day while at work. This would reduce the charging required at home.

Gen 2 NEMA Adapters
Thank you. So based on your experience and knowledge, I should be OK at 8A with the freezer plugged in?

I'm thinking about adding a 240V plug right next to the breaker box so I don't even have to worry.
 
Thank you. So based on your experience and knowledge, I should be OK at 8A with the freezer plugged in?

I'm thinking about adding a 240V plug right next to the breaker box so I don't even have to worry.
Charging at 120V/8A should be fine unless the circuit is already heavily loaded. If your home's electrical service panel is located in or near your garage you should be able to add a 240V circuit to you home for a reasonable cost. (When the panel is close by anything up to perhaps $500 is reasonable depending on where you live.) Some may tell you should get a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. This would offer flexibility in the future as you could unplug the Tesla Mobile Connector and plug in different equipment for charging a non-Tesla EV.

For the cleanest installation the Tesla Wall Connector would be a worth considering. The Wall Connector enables charging at up to 48 amps (requires a 60 amp circuit) so it would the fastest home charging solution for the Tesla Model Y. If your electrician tells you that your current electrical panel and service will not support an additional 60A circuit you can also install the Wall Connector and the unit can be set for use on a 50A, 40A, 30A or even 20A circuit (60A, 50A and 40A are probably the most common circuits used with the Wall Connector.)

Careful consideration must be given for the location of the 240V receptacle or for the Wall Connector installation as the Tesla charging cord is 18.5 ft in length, not longer. Make sure that the charging cord can reach the charging port on the Tesla vehicle (the charging port on the Tesla vehicle is located at the left rear quarter panel of the Tesla vehicle by the turn signal.)
 
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Charging at 120V/8A should be fine unless the circuit is already heavily loaded. If your home's electrical service panel is located in or near your garage you should be able to add a 240V circuit to you home for a reasonable cost. (When the panel is close by anything up to perhaps $500 is reasonable depending on where you live.) Some may tell you should get a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. This would offer flexibility in the future as you could unplug the Tesla Mobile Connector and plug in different equipment for charging a non-Tesla EV.

For the cleanest installation the Tesla Wall Connector would be a worth considering. The Wall Connector enables charging at up to 48 amps (requires a 60 amp circuit) so it would the fastest home charging solution for the Tesla Model Y. If your electrician tells you that your current electrical panel and service will not support an additional 60A circuit you can also install the Wall Connector and the unit can be set for use on a 50A, 40A, 30A or even 20A circuit (60A, 50A and 40A are probably the most common circuits used with the Wall Connector.)

Careful consideration must be given for the location of the 240V receptacle or for the Wall Connector installation as the Tesla charging cord is 18.5 ft in length, not longer. Make sure that the charging cord can reach the charging port on the Tesla vehicle (the charging port on the Tesla vehicle is located at the left rear quarter panel of the Tesla vehicle by the turn signal.)
I park on the left side of my 2-car garage and the breaker panel is directly in front of my car. I could literally have a 14-50 outlet installed directly next to the panel and it would easily reach the left rear panel of the car.
 
I park on the left side of my 2-car garage and the breaker panel is directly in front of my car. I could literally have a 14-50 outlet installed directly next to the panel and it would easily reach the left rear panel of the car.
It seems straight forward. If you decide to use the Tesla Mobile Connector with a 240V circuit 14-50 receptacle you will need to purchase the NEMA 14-50 plug adapter ($45) from the Tesla store. Also consider the Tesla Cable Organizer ($35) or similar mounting hardware for the Mobile Connector chassis and the charging cable. This is important as the Mobile Connector should not be left to hang supported by the receptacle and the power plug adapter. The receptacle and the power plug are not designed to support the weight of the Mobile Connector chassis and charging cord and over time the plug connection can get stretched and fail.

Cable Organizer

If you install the Wall Connector you can hang the charging cord from the Wall Connector. The Wall Connector has a built in holder for the charging connector.
 
I had to research this on my own. Many so called “long time members” on here who claim to know it all NEVER brought up a 6-20. Weird.
It's not weird if you realize the context. The very early Tesla buyers were almost all spending over $100,000 for the cars and had these gigantic houses with 400A electrical service and tossed off comments like, "Just put in two extra 100A subpanels on both sides of your four car garage--no big deal." It has taken a while for more recent middle class buyers to have to discuss things like fitting in a 15 or 20 amp circuit because they may not have a lot of extra electrical capacity. And yeah, that has frustrated me for a long time too.
 
So far with my brand new MY I've been using the 20A/120V outlet in my garage just fine. I did have a random question - in the Tesla app when charging is active, I see it reporting 16 of 16A * 115V * 2 kW during the charging cycle and below that where you can slide the Charge limit it has it maxed out at 16A. Sometimes when I exit the app and check back later, the limit goes down to 15A. I have to hit the up arrow to go back to 16A. Is this a software bug or an actual reason it went a step down in amps (perhaps the Mobile Connector being smart and preventing the outlet/circuit from overheating?). I have nothing else plugged in on the same circuit.
 
So far with my brand new MY I've been using the 20A/120V outlet in my garage just fine. I did have a random question - in the Tesla app when charging is active, I see it reporting 16 of 16A * 115V * 2 kW during the charging cycle and below that where you can slide the Charge limit it has it maxed out at 16A. Sometimes when I exit the app and check back later, the limit goes down to 15A. I have to hit the up arrow to go back to 16A. Is this a software bug or an actual reason it went a step down in amps (perhaps the Mobile Connector being smart and preventing the outlet/circuit from overheating?). I have nothing else plugged in on the same circuit.
It's a software bug in the mobile app. It doesn't do that if you change the amps from the screen in the car. Here's a thread that's been talking about it for a while.
 
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