I might escalate this, as I've read elsewhere on TMC that Tesla warrants its parts replacements for one year.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
KidDoc
Member
My out of warranty vehicle has the issue on the passenger rear door where it presents but doesn't work. You can open the door from inside no problem. Has anyone had any luck getting the service center to repair instead of replace? It seems like their default answer to any problem is just costly replacement instead of actually fixing it.
I had issues with bugs in my tail-lights and instead of blowing them out and resealing them they want to replace both lights for a cool $1k. Seems insane.
Is there any way to get a Tesla repair manual? I have a local shop that wants to work on it but they cannot get access to a repair manual.
I had issues with bugs in my tail-lights and instead of blowing them out and resealing them they want to replace both lights for a cool $1k. Seems insane.
Is there any way to get a Tesla repair manual? I have a local shop that wants to work on it but they cannot get access to a repair manual.
IMHO this is a well known design flaw and they should cover these failures as goodwill.
Failure to present can also be caused by alignment of the handle on the current version. The original version extended quite forcefully; the newer ones do not. So if they are rubbing they will not extend.
Mine is passenger rear left as well. Your local shop can maybe use this as reference?
Fix your door that won't open
KidDoc
Member
I emailed Tesla service and received this response:
I have forwarded your door handle concern over to our Mobile Service team reach out and get you scheduled with a mobile service appointment. We’ll send out a mobile tech to you to have the door fixed on-site at home or work and save you a trip in to the Service Center.
As to your repair question, they can provide both quotes to replace just the micro-switches along with the whole door handle assembly.
Thank you,
Jason Praksti | Service Advisor, Tesla Motors, Inc.
I have forwarded your door handle concern over to our Mobile Service team reach out and get you scheduled with a mobile service appointment. We’ll send out a mobile tech to you to have the door fixed on-site at home or work and save you a trip in to the Service Center.
As to your repair question, they can provide both quotes to replace just the micro-switches along with the whole door handle assembly.
Thank you,
Jason Praksti | Service Advisor, Tesla Motors, Inc.
Just had another handle failure. Rear door this time. Repaired under warranty. I'm going to keep using warranty over and over in hopes it helps convince Tesla to come up with a more permanent fix. I'll start fixing it myself in a more robust way when warranty runs out.
Kipernicus
Model S Res#P1440
Got my first door handle problem in over 5 years - and it was 2 at the same time!
Drove to Tahoe this weekend and when picking up the car on Sunday the front right presents but doesn't light up or open, and the back left does not present (or goes "clunk" and comes out halfway).
Out of warranty so I have to pay $200 deductible on the extended warranty. Throwing in a request for 17" screen replacement due to bubbles that I've been living with for over a year now but felt it wasn't worth paying the deductible for just one thing.
Drove to Tahoe this weekend and when picking up the car on Sunday the front right presents but doesn't light up or open, and the back left does not present (or goes "clunk" and comes out halfway).
Out of warranty so I have to pay $200 deductible on the extended warranty. Throwing in a request for 17" screen replacement due to bubbles that I've been living with for over a year now but felt it wasn't worth paying the deductible for just one thing.
KidDoc
Member
Heard back from Texas mobile service and right now they do not charge extra for mobile service. However they are quoting an entire replacement with $575 in parts + 150 labor so $775 for a door handle that likely has a broken wire. I emailed back asking if they ever repair these instead of replacing a part that is likely not broken.
KidDoc
Member
Yeah I watched the youtube of some door repairs and that looks way beyond my skill level. I tend to just cuss and break things when trying to fix them so I learned years ago to just bite the bullet and hire people.
KidDoc
Member
Today the door handle started to work again for some reason. I'm guessing the wire still has some integrity and it kinked back into connection for some reason.
Now I've got the issue where the door opens itself when the handles extend. Glad I had the opportunity to experience this unique feature.
The good news is the Model 3 should be immune from most of these issues.
The good news is the Model 3 should be immune from most of these issues.
On my handles there is a set screw for adjusting the strike height of one of the microswitches.. that, when pressed, does the opening actions.
You could try tightening that set screw so as to make more clearance between the strike surface and the microswitch leaf spring on its plunger.
Something else to check while you're in there: This change in behavior might be a signal of the paddle pusher gear wearing or breaking away at its pivot point, allowing the handle to reach out further than it should when presented.
In a very quiet garage... with the car locked and no key around..
Pull out a door handle slowly (using a credit card to pry it out and get a grasp on it)... and listen as you pull slowly... when it's nearing the end of its travel (nearly fully extended) you're hear a microswitch go "click" then keep pulling slowly you'll hear another microswitch go "click".
The fist click is the microswitch that tells the car the handle has presented and is waiting for a tug.
The second click is the microswitch that tells the car you have pulled.
If your door opens itself, odds are the second click is happening as part of the presentation of the handle.
Pull out a door handle slowly (using a credit card to pry it out and get a grasp on it)... and listen as you pull slowly... when it's nearing the end of its travel (nearly fully extended) you're hear a microswitch go "click" then keep pulling slowly you'll hear another microswitch go "click".
The fist click is the microswitch that tells the car the handle has presented and is waiting for a tug.
The second click is the microswitch that tells the car you have pulled.
If your door opens itself, odds are the second click is happening as part of the presentation of the handle.
My right rear door will not open on my 2017 Model S. It presents but when you pull it, you have to pull really hard to get the door to open. The ranger came to replace it a few weeks ago and they gave him the wrong version. I think it was 2.0 and he said mine was 2.5. I believe he said the 2.0 did not have a hard plastic cover over the assembly. It had that flimsy plastic with the putty holding it on. My cover was a hard plastic that was screwed on. He said they are no longer making the 2.x style and can only order the 3.0 assembly which requires another component to be attached to the inside of the door. The ranger said they should be able to find a 2.5 assembly from another dealer. They did and after replacing the entire assembly today, it still does not open without really pulling hard on the handle. The only part that was reused was the chrome handle. He connected his laptop and re-calibrated the handles by plugging into the Ethernet connection under the cubby. He also downloaded and installed the new 2018.16 eac88a7 software. Neither resolved the issue. It did speed up the browser.
SabrToothSqrl
Active Member
Guesses:
- pusher paddle is sticking in out position because it's breaking on its hinge, one side, causing it to go askew
- alignment of pieces, something catching on something else preventing retraction
- lack of lube on moving parts, friction sticking
If you're off warranty, keep the broken part (if replacement called for), open it and diagnose for us!
SabrToothSqrl
Active Member
Similar threads
