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Door Handle Failures

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I had my 3rd door handle break recently in 6 months! First 2 were under warranty. The third was out of warranty by 2k miles and 3 weeks. Our local service tech was stopped by and fixed it under goodwill. Since it was technically out of warranty he was not able to replace the entire assembly but rather replaced just the paddle gear. I was told that Tesla is phasing out these door handles (another new design I'd guess). I pried for details but he wasn't privy to the specifics.
 
I had my 3rd door handle break recently in 6 months! First 2 were under warranty. The third was out of warranty by 2k miles and 3 weeks. Our local service tech was stopped by and fixed it under goodwill. Since it was technically out of warranty he was not able to replace the entire assembly but rather replaced just the paddle gear. I was told that Tesla is phasing out these door handles (another new design I'd guess). I pried for details but he wasn't privy to the specifics.

Everything is getting changed to the Hall effect sensor gen 3 type. They’re using the older style plastic frame but using updated electronics. The gears are still cast and the new modules are less reliable.
 
I really hate to keep harping on this, but it is what it is. Today my left rear door handle stopped working. I've literally lost count of how many door handle failures I have had. How many? I honestly don't know how many. That's how many. I love Tesla, but they need to offer a handle overhaul for the Model S; maybe they could partner with a group like EV Tuning Solutions or other 3rd parties that have worked to provide better alternatives.

EDIT: Assuming my original count was correct (apparently I started this thread), I'm now up to 7.5 handle replacements in 2.5 years. The 0.5 handle is for the adjustment error that was causing the door to open itself when it would present. Extrapolating out, my car should need 3 new door handles every year. Replacing all 4 door handles shouldn't be a yearly maintenance item.
 
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I really hate to keep harping on this, but it is what it is. Today my left rear door handle stopped working. I've literally lost count of how many door handle failures I have had. How many? I honestly don't know how many. That's how many. I love Tesla, but they need to offer a handle overhaul for the Model S; maybe they could partner with a group like EV Tuning Solutions or other 3rd parties that have worked to provide better alternatives.

EDIT: Assuming my original count was correct (apparently I started this thread), I'm now up to 7.5 handle replacements in 2.5 years. The 0.5 handle is for the adjustment error that was causing the door to open itself when it would present. Extrapolating out, my car should need 3 new door handles every year. Replacing all 4 door handles shouldn't be a yearly maintenance item.

Some real irony in that I worked for Tesla for 4.5 years lol. I’m happy to provide what the OEM won’t and keep addressing the problem.
 
Everything is getting changed to the Hall effect sensor gen 3 type. They’re using the older style plastic frame but using updated electronics. The gears are still cast and the new modules are less reliable.

I have gen 1 handles on a 2013 Model S. One door handle finally failed. Rear right. At first it was intermittently opening. The it stopped opening. Then stopped presenting.
I decided to buy 4 gen 3 handles on eBay and get the local mobile tech to put them all in. (Save on parts cost and avoid putting problematic gen 2 into the door) One of them said it would work.
Today, another tech says that the gen 3 handles won't mount on to the gen 1 mounting holes. Is that right?! Do I have to return all the gen 3 handles??:eek:
 
I have gen 1 handles on a 2013 Model S. One door handle finally failed. Rear right. At first it was intermittently opening. The it stopped opening. Then stopped presenting.
I decided to buy 4 gen 3 handles on eBay and get the local mobile tech to put them all in. (Save on parts cost and avoid putting problematic gen 2 into the door) One of them said it would work.
Today, another tech says that the gen 3 handles won't mount on to the gen 1 mounting holes. Is that right?! Do I have to return all the gen 3 handles??:eek:
That is correct there is another version of the handle that has gen 3 guts but is a gen1/2 housing. You’ll need to get these. BUT gen 3 isn’t without it’s issues. The modules short out and the whole thing doesn’t work then.
 
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That is correct there is another version of the handle that has gen 3 guts but is a gen1/2 housing. You’ll need to get these. BUT gen 3 isn’t without it’s issues. The modules short out and the whole thing doesn’t work then.
Thanks for the help. So in my case. Gen 1 door handles, 1 failed and others slowly failing (especially in heat),
..without requiring Tesla service..
the best option is switching to Gen 2.1 handles with your upgraded harness? Is that the most reliable solution long term for all the Gen 1's that fail? Is this solution plug and play and does not require any firmware updates/calibration (gen 3)?
If you have any lying around for rear right door. Let me know.
 
Thanks for the help. So in my case. Gen 1 door handles, 1 failed and others slowly failing (especially in heat),
..without requiring Tesla service..
the best option is switching to Gen 2.1 handles with your upgraded harness? Is that the most reliable solution long term for all the Gen 1's that fail? Is this solution plug and play and does not require any firmware updates/calibration (gen 3)?
If you have any lying around for rear right door. Let me know.
I have plenty of them that I can rebuild with all our updates. It’s $350 fully rebuilt. Plug and play for your car and already available on the site. Model S Door Handle Rebuild Kit/Service I will have to add a drop down for specifying which door.
 
Hmm. I just had my front passenger door handle go bad. The door would open itself. But they told me that they recalibrated it rather than replaced it. I got it back two days ago. The car is one year old. Its rear driver side door handle was also recalibrated last March, but its problem was simply not opening the door. It hasn't had any problems since then.
 
I've done all four doors microswitch wire mods and that's been lasting for years, but just had my first paddle gear go on Boxing Day. I was antcipating this, so had preordered several gears and had them on hand ... just spent some quality time with my S again in the heated garage. Getting good and fast at taking those handles out.

Regular maintenance, Tesla style. Ha!

At least I'm not crawling under the car having to pull oil pan drain plugs and filters every 5000km.

The gears are cheap and microswitch fix free if you know how to solder. So all these handles just amount to my time and labor. But its a labor of Love because I'm a Car Guy anyway. Each time I learn another trick for speed and efficiency... like getting the door panel off ...Hot tip: pull off the speaker grill, fingers around bottom edge and yank. THEN this opens up places to put your fingers into the panel to yank it off the door... do this instead of inserting pry tools around the door card and door metal.

Give me 4 minutes and the door panel is off unharmed. Haven't broken even one clip yet.
 
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Hmm. I just had my front passenger door handle go bad. The door would open itself. But they told me that they recalibrated it rather than replaced it. I got it back two days ago. The car is one year old. Its rear driver side door handle was also recalibrated last March, but its problem was simply not opening the door. It hasn't had any problems since then.
You have gen 3 handles with Hall effect sensors. Your weak points are the control module and paddle gear. You don’t have microswitches.
 
You have gen 3 handles with Hall effect sensors. Your weak points are the control module and paddle gear. You don’t have microswitches.
Good to know. So how does it go out of calibration and what is it they adjust? Do you know if going out of calibration again is more likely after it happening to a handle once? Is calibration of the door handles something they can check easily at the yearly service, or do they have to take it apart?
 
Good to know. So how does it go out of calibration and what is it they adjust? Do you know if going out of calibration again is more likely after it happening to a handle once? Is calibration of the door handles something they can check easily at the yearly service, or do they have to take it apart?
It loses its memory of where “in” and “out” and “request to open” are. They just run a recalibration test with toolbox (in-house diagnostic software) and it learns those points again. There is no real rhyme or reason to when or why it happens. Could be after a firmware update or something random. It isn’t checked during annual services because it either works or it doesn’t it isn’t a gradual thing. When it happens it takes less than 5 mines to fix it.
 
It loses its memory of where “in” and “out” and “request to open” are. They just run a recalibration test with toolbox (in-house diagnostic software) and it learns those points again. There is no real rhyme or reason to when or why it happens. Could be after a firmware update or something random. It isn’t checked during annual services because it either works or it doesn’t it isn’t a gradual thing. When it happens it takes less than 5 mines to fix it.


Gen 2x rocks with physical microswitches that can be DIY fixed and no toolbox recalibrate required. Personally, I'd skip the Gen3 with what sounds like a flakey controller and "forgetting" its calibration periodically.

Actually, there is a little screw-down strike pad for one of the microswitches that informs when the presented handle is fully fully extended. So you can calibrate this if you have to with a screwdriver... but that's all the adjustments there are.

"Fully fully extended" is a thing, it's my term for when you tug on a handle to open the door the handle spurts out another little bit, maybe 1/8" so the color matched backplate behind the chrome handle is now flush with the door metal. In this position, the microswitch with the adjustable strikeplate has tripped.

Tesla could have gotten the handles more right simply by mounting the microswitches to the non-moving parts and have the moving parts strike them. Then, none of this microswitch wire fatigue breakage would have ever happened. However, the paddle gear thing is an enigma of its own... my theory there is door slamming really does harm it by the shock of handle mass being backstopped by the paddle gear for each door shut. If you have heavy slammers in your family then probably go through more paddle gears.
 
Lol that’s what you think. They have their own quirks. Freeze in the closed position, the hinge goes out of adjustment and it starts scraping the door, the sensor breaks. It’s just a different pig with the same lipstick. Lol

For the love of God please tell me Tesla didn't mount the model 3 door sensor on the moving part, again.

Since I own a 3 as well, and live in Canada, I'm looking forward to the day it freezes shut... but I've also seen the Canadian solution of unfreezing a 3 handle with a nice little sharp blow to the thumbie part of the handle. Good thing steel doors not aluminum, because the sheet metal flexes better ... I'd be too afraid to try this if they had used Al for the model 3 door skins. But I practiced and showed my wife in case she finds herself frozen out in some parking lot some day.
 
Lol that’s what you think. They have their own quirks. Freeze in the closed position, the hinge goes out of adjustment and it starts scraping the door, the sensor breaks. It’s just a different pig with the same lipstick. Lol
Dammit! Always a catch.

What’s so wrong with normal car door handles? They pull a cable and the door opens. My 09 Tahoe handles operate just fine for 10+ years now.

Someone needs to make an aftermarket normal handle. Goldmine.