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Vendor Door Handle Replacement Parts/Rebuild Services
- Thread starter EVTuning
- Start date
Hi all, so I’m wondering if it’s possible to install a late model handle assembly in an early model S. I found what was advertised as a Gen 2 handle listed online that I was going to use in place of a Gen 1 that failed. I was sent a Gen 3 instead. It’s for the front drivers door and looks similar to what I recall the Gen 1/2s to look like from a bolting pattern perspective, but as I understand it from the post above, they changed the mounting configuration beginning with 2.5. Would I be wasting my time even trying this? I have no problem waiting for the next software update given I’ve already had a non functional handle for some time now, I just want to be sure I can make this work. I know how to be creative if necessary, but I don’t want to spend an entire weekend doing it either.
Btw, I can vouch for the quality of EVTUNINGS replacement paddle gears and microswitches, they work great! If only they had a fix for the pressure switch I’d just have replaced that.
Thanks all!
Btw, I can vouch for the quality of EVTUNINGS replacement paddle gears and microswitches, they work great! If only they had a fix for the pressure switch I’d just have replaced that.
Thanks all!
This is "possible" but not DIY at all. There is more to it than just the handle. There is an adapter harness and an additional module and a plastic door vapor barrier required. Once you have all the parts you then need to have the software configuration changed in the car and initialize the door handle so it knows where in/out/open are otherwise it won't present and it'll only open if you push on it like a Model X door handle works. If you bought it through ebay I'd file a claim and get your money back/return the handle and find the right one.
Thank you so much for the response. It was purchased through eBay and was advertised as Gen 2 handle and even had a sticker applied with a Gen 2 part number printed on it. My other Model S has the Gen 2 handles and recalling your original post when I had to fix that one, the part they sent me looked different. I’m very grateful for both your original post and this reply for saving me the hassle of tearing things apart only to figure this out the hard way! I’ll definitely be filing a claim/return with the seller. Thanks again!!!
This will help with identification
This will help with rebuilding it
This will help with removing it from the front door (rear door video coming soon but it's very much the same)
rothman
Member
Same here - It seems there is not much which can be fixed on gen3, if the motor still works its maybe the sensor (1066379-00-A), but its not sold seperately by Tesla Gen 3 door handle - Replace sensor - if nothing works it could be the sep. controller unit (1069651-00-*) or the motor which is again not sold sep.
This is a calibration issue with the handle. It has to be "taught" where "in, out and open" are which requires toolbox to do this. So you're at the mercy of Tesla. It's possible the paddle gear has broken as the redesigned piece is still cast and still breaks the same way the older version do. Our paddle gear is interchangeable with GEN 3 as well. You now have 2 different modules there is one mounted to the door and one on the handle and both have issues that only Tesla can fix.
You're 100% at tesla's mercy for how to fix this handle. You need to initialize using toolbox to get it to work properly. The paddle gear is the only thing that is serviceable from Evtuning.com
SSonnentag
埃隆•馬斯克
Mine was the same. According to the build dates mine should have been a gen 1 or 2 as well. The gen 3, or whatever is in my car, doesn't have the switches and wires, and already comes with a metal gear piece. Now I have 2 EV Tuning door handle repair kits I can't use.
rothman
Member
Mhm is there definitively no other way arround Tesla Sec? My experience after warranty with them in Germany has been "pretty bad" so far, not even able to unlock my full battery nor AP1 HW while some SeC in US even do it unasekd -_- sry getting OT here...
So for retrofitting Gen3 handles there was a thread saying "wait for the next Software Update" so the car detects/initializes the new version handles itself without SeC visit.
Maybe there is a similar way to get the car to recalibrate the gen3 handles, e.g. like the Telnet Firmware redeploy command via Fakra adapter etc..
rothman
Member
The new auxilliary module that mounts to the door is not weather tight and gets water into it. This is the most common failure. Next would be how the hall effect sensor is attached and the glue can let go. The biggest issue is if it loses its initialization or programming you can't do this yourself or just reset 12v and have it work again.
rothman
Member
The hall sensor is the one mounted in the handle with the magnetic stop sensor? > see attached picture
Seems totally closed with glue, can't see how smth should get into there....
You mean simply disconnect the old 12V battery in the frunk for a minute?
btw. I've recorded the exact behaviour - curiously you can still open the door by pressing it
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I was wondering if Gen 3 doorhandle which us used on < 2016 is compatible with > 2016 Model S cars with special modules?
Personal experience with Gen 2.5 doorhandle:
I have a Tesla Model S P85+ 120k KM.
Both of my rear doorhandles stopped working (Didn't present) and I found out there was multiple problems...
When I opened the doorhandles, I found multiple design flaws and I don't understand what Tesla engineers have been smoking when they designed this doorhandle... Why not just stick to a normal mechanical door handle? We know these have been working for 120 years...
Problem 1:
I found out that both had corrosion that was built inside both cables plugs closest to the doorhandle module. If you want to repair this BS doorhandle check for corrosions. A multimeter is very handy here.
There are three cables between the doorhandle and the car:
1:st goes from the central car to the door,
2:st a cable in middle between the door handle
3st: This cable goes directly to the doorhandle module.
The second problem the switch liver that registers the doorhandle position didn't register after the doorhandle was pulled inn. The gear did not moved back enough to pull the liver.. I had to extend the gear so it actually could make up for that gap.
Personal experience with Gen 2.5 doorhandle:
I have a Tesla Model S P85+ 120k KM.
Both of my rear doorhandles stopped working (Didn't present) and I found out there was multiple problems...
When I opened the doorhandles, I found multiple design flaws and I don't understand what Tesla engineers have been smoking when they designed this doorhandle... Why not just stick to a normal mechanical door handle? We know these have been working for 120 years...
Problem 1:
I found out that both had corrosion that was built inside both cables plugs closest to the doorhandle module. If you want to repair this BS doorhandle check for corrosions. A multimeter is very handy here.
There are three cables between the doorhandle and the car:
1:st goes from the central car to the door,
2:st a cable in middle between the door handle
3st: This cable goes directly to the doorhandle module.
The second problem the switch liver that registers the doorhandle position didn't register after the doorhandle was pulled inn. The gear did not moved back enough to pull the liver.. I had to extend the gear so it actually could make up for that gap.
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