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Door lights upgrade

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I am speculating here but there may be some limitation from the government on how bright they can be. That being said they do not cause any difference in energy consumption. Especially where the majority of them are not on for any longer period of time than opening and closing the doors.
 
I ordered these 2 days ago and installed them today. (Hooray for Amazon Prime, basically no waiting.) They came out to $11/light with no tax, so comparable to AO and RPM (non-discounted). I originally wanted to upgrade the 4 puddle lights, 2 trunk lights, and the frunk light. Turns out the frunk light is totally different and integrated into the release switch, so the package of six lights turned out to be perfect.

The installation was more difficult than I thought it would be. At least in my car, the wires connecting the puddle lights barely had any slack. I was trying to avoid pulling too hard on the wiring because the last thing I want is another service center trip. With such little slack, it wasn't easy to detach the old lights, and even harder to put on the new ones. In one of my doors, tugging on the wire just to detach the light created an recoil where the connector retracted into the door panel after slipping through my fingers. I spent about 5 minutes trying to fish it back out and even started thinking about how I'd have to removing the door panel completely.

Really important: When you disconnect the puddle light, it makes the car think the door is closed and the window goes all the way back up. I was startled when this happened on the first door and thought I broke something. I didn't check to see if power to the door release switch is also lost, so don't chance closing the door without installing the light first.

The trunk lights were much easier, but required getting behind the fabric trim by pulling out a plastic fastener. That's because there's a plastic bracket that secures the light to the fabric that fits over the back of the light. Looking at the back of the RPM lights in the video at 2:26, I don't see how the bracket would even fit over it as it doesn't seem to have the right shape. He kind of shows how the installation works on a Model S at 7:02 by wedging it into the fabric/carpet. You could do that in the trunk of the Model 3, but it wouldn't be as secure as with the bracket snapped in place. Maybe someone who used the RPM lights in the trunk can clarify how they were secured. Otherwise, probably best to stick with AO or other 3rd parties that have lights the same size as OEM.
 
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I ordered these 2 days ago and installed them today. (Hooray for Amazon Prime, basically no waiting.) They came out to $11/light with no tax, so comparable to AO and RPM (non-discounted). I originally wanted to upgrade the 4 puddle lights, 2 trunk lights, and the frunk light. Turns out the frunk light is totally different and integrated into the release switch, so the package of six lights turned out to be perfect.

The installation was more difficult than I thought it would be. At least in my car, the wires connecting the puddle lights barely had any slack. I was trying to avoid pulling too hard on the wiring because the last thing I want is another service center trip. With such little slack, it wasn't easy to detach the old lights, and even harder to put on the new ones. In one of my doors, tugging on the wire just to detach the light created an recoil where the connector retracted into the door panel after slipping through my fingers. I spent about 5 minutes trying to fish it back out and even started thinking about how I'd have to removing the door panel completely.

Really important: When you disconnect the puddle light, it makes the car think the door is closed and the window goes all the way back up. I was startled when this happened on the first door and thought I broke something. I didn't check to see if power to the door release switch is also lost, so don't chance closing the door without installing the light first.

The trunk lights were much easier, but required getting behind the fabric trim by pulling out a plastic fastener. That's because there's a plastic bracket that secures the light to the fabric that fits over the back of the light. Looking at the back of the RPM lights in the video at 2:26, I don't see how the bracket would even fit over it as it doesn't seem to have the right shape. He kind of shows how the installation works on a Model S at 7:02 by wedging it into the fabric/carpet. You could do that in the trunk of the Model 3, but it wouldn't be as secure as with the bracket snapped in place. Maybe someone who used the RPM lights in the trunk can clarify how they were secured. Otherwise, probably best to stick with AO or other 3rd parties that have lights the same size as OEM.
I ran into some of the same challenges as you, although I had seen a video prior to my installation, where I knew you had to make sure the wires didn’t retract into the door. My rear doors were particularly tight (no slack), but I gently tugged until there was enough room to unsnap the connector.

I initially tried to use a plastic spludger to pry the old lights out, but quickly switched to a metal flat head screwdriver, covered in masking tape, to avoid scratches. This worked much better.

The trunk lights were a bit tricky, but by freeing up the liner (pulling it out of the weather stripping gasket), I was able to get my hand behind the liner to snap the new light into the rectangular plastic bracket. The trick is just angling one end of the bracket into place, first, and then snapping the other end up. Then replace the liner behind the weather stripping.

The RPM lights are considerably brighter. Here’s a photo where you can see the reflection of the front door RPM light, vs. the OEM light in the rear door:

D9E44FE5-38B0-4CA4-AA8D-D709A40BEC6C.jpeg
 
Oh, and I believe the lights you got are exactly the same size as the model 3 lights, so they should fit into the trunk bracket the same way. I didn’t have to undo any plastic fasteners for the liner, either — just freed up the liner from under the rubber weatherseal gasket around the trunk opening.
 
Oh, and I believe the lights you got are exactly the same size as the model 3 lights, so they should fit into the trunk bracket the same way. I didn’t have to undo any plastic fasteners for the liner, either — just freed up the liner from under the rubber weatherseal gasket around the trunk opening.

That's interesting. Are you sure that RPM sent you the lights they claimed to send you? Their video specifically shows and the guy talks about how the RPM LED module is larger than the OEM, justifying it as because it's brighter and better. I know the AO ones and the no-name ones I got from Amazon are the exact same size as the OEM.
 
That's interesting. Are you sure that RPM sent you the lights they claimed to send you? Their video specifically shows and the guy talks about how the RPM LED module is larger than the OEM, justifying it as because it's brighter and better. I know the AO ones and the no-name ones I got from Amazon are the exact same size as the OEM.
Oh, I think maybe you’re right, that the depth of the module may be slightly greater. I just meant that the length and width are the same, so the plastic bracket in the trunk fits fine.
 
I rather have an easier install than needing the brightest.
I don’t think the size makes any difference in the difficulty. To be honest, the hardest part (which isn’t hard at all), is removing the OEM light. Once you’ve done that, popping the new light in is super simple.

I recommend using a flat head screwdriver wrapped in masking tape to remove the OEM lights. I thought I could use a plastic spudger, but it flexed too much.
 
I ran into some of the same challenges as you, although I had seen a video prior to my installation, where I knew you had to make sure the wires didn’t retract into the door. My rear doors were particularly tight (no slack), but I gently tugged until there was enough room to unsnap the connector.

I initially tried to use a plastic spludger to pry the old lights out, but quickly switched to a metal flat head screwdriver, covered in masking tape, to avoid scratches. This worked much better.

The trunk lights were a bit tricky, but by freeing up the liner (pulling it out of the weather stripping gasket), I was able to get my hand behind the liner to snap the new light into the rectangular plastic bracket. The trick is just angling one end of the bracket into place, first, and then snapping the other end up. Then replace the liner behind the weather stripping.

The RPM lights are considerably brighter. Here’s a photo where you can see the reflection of the front door RPM light, vs. the OEM light in the rear door:

View attachment 298045


Having done a number of installs including my own car I've come to a couple of conclusion that are similar to what you found. The factor door harnesses are very tight. I had my version of the lights designed with an OEM pigtail (2 inches of wire and connector) on them so that this isn't an issue. My lights are very similar in terms of brightness and output to the AO lights. I have also started making extension harnesses (factory connector on both ends) for if you want to use another brand of light in your car. I have also found that the plastic brackets in the trunk do not matter. The light will stay in regardless of whether you use that bracket or not at least for my brand of light. They are very similar in size to the originals and just snap into the molded carpet.

So either way you should have an easier time with installing either my lights or AO RPM or no name brand lights in your car.
 
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How do these compare to abstract ocean and RPM in terms of size and brightness?

I rather have an easier install than needing the brightest.

I haven't thought about this in a couple months, but from what I remember, the lights I linked on Amazon and the AO lights were basically the same. The RPM ones are brighter, but also physically larger (thicker), which may make the installation a little more difficult.
 
I realize this thread is a few months old but thought I’d chime in. I ordered the puddle lights and the 5 pack of replacement lights. The order was placed on 5 July. I was sent an email stating that it would be 1-2 weeks since they were very busy. I received my items today, 7 July. Granted I’m located in California, as is RPM, but still impressive.
Light installation was simple. Watched their online video and it took maybe 3 minutes per light. Huge difference in the amount of light output. Also love the Tesla logo puddle lights. Quite happy with my experience.
 
Just installed the RPM Tesla LEDs, so I thought I’d add some thoughts and dispel some of the speculation earlier in the thread:

The part is the same size as the original, just more LEDs internal to the plastic housing. Because of that, they click in the same way the originals do.

I ordered 2x 5-packs for a total of 10 replacements and here’s what was swapped:

4x Door Puddles (Front & Back)
2x Trunk
2x Ambient Light in Footwells
1x Glovebox
1x Center Console Rear Compartment

The hardest swap was the center console light because its location is upside down and too close to the side wall to get a screwdriver in there to pop it out, so I had to take a wide head screw and pull straight down to pop it out. Took a few tries but ultimately came out.

Trunk lights were second hardest because I could barely get my fingers through the vent holes holding the LEDs in place. On top of that, the plastic rectangular clip that holds the light in place is a bit tricky to click into place. I almost resigned to just leaving it without the rectangular clip, but it just wouldn’t stay in place very well, so I persisted and finally got both clipped in.

The driver side rear door was the third hardest as there wasn’t a lot of slack in the wires. I didn’t want to stress them too much, but I had to tug a bit to get enough room to click in the replacement.

All the other ones were super easy and I really like the brightness, even the foot wells.

Now only if there was an option to upgrade the dome lights!