dgaultiere
Member
Can anyone report if there are any energy-use concerns with these after market lights? I know LEDs are generally very efficient, but why would Tesla spec the car with such low-lighting?
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I ran into some of the same challenges as you, although I had seen a video prior to my installation, where I knew you had to make sure the wires didn’t retract into the door. My rear doors were particularly tight (no slack), but I gently tugged until there was enough room to unsnap the connector.I ordered these 2 days ago and installed them today. (Hooray for Amazon Prime, basically no waiting.) They came out to $11/light with no tax, so comparable to AO and RPM (non-discounted). I originally wanted to upgrade the 4 puddle lights, 2 trunk lights, and the frunk light. Turns out the frunk light is totally different and integrated into the release switch, so the package of six lights turned out to be perfect.
The installation was more difficult than I thought it would be. At least in my car, the wires connecting the puddle lights barely had any slack. I was trying to avoid pulling too hard on the wiring because the last thing I want is another service center trip. With such little slack, it wasn't easy to detach the old lights, and even harder to put on the new ones. In one of my doors, tugging on the wire just to detach the light created an recoil where the connector retracted into the door panel after slipping through my fingers. I spent about 5 minutes trying to fish it back out and even started thinking about how I'd have to removing the door panel completely.
Really important: When you disconnect the puddle light, it makes the car think the door is closed and the window goes all the way back up. I was startled when this happened on the first door and thought I broke something. I didn't check to see if power to the door release switch is also lost, so don't chance closing the door without installing the light first.
The trunk lights were much easier, but required getting behind the fabric trim by pulling out a plastic fastener. That's because there's a plastic bracket that secures the light to the fabric that fits over the back of the light. Looking at the back of the RPM lights in the video at 2:26, I don't see how the bracket would even fit over it as it doesn't seem to have the right shape. He kind of shows how the installation works on a Model S at 7:02 by wedging it into the fabric/carpet. You could do that in the trunk of the Model 3, but it wouldn't be as secure as with the bracket snapped in place. Maybe someone who used the RPM lights in the trunk can clarify how they were secured. Otherwise, probably best to stick with AO or other 3rd parties that have lights the same size as OEM.
Oh, and I believe the lights you got are exactly the same size as the model 3 lights, so they should fit into the trunk bracket the same way. I didn’t have to undo any plastic fasteners for the liner, either — just freed up the liner from under the rubber weatherseal gasket around the trunk opening.
Oh, I think maybe you’re right, that the depth of the module may be slightly greater. I just meant that the length and width are the same, so the plastic bracket in the trunk fits fine.That's interesting. Are you sure that RPM sent you the lights they claimed to send you? Their video specifically shows and the guy talks about how the RPM LED module is larger than the OEM, justifying it as because it's brighter and better. I know the AO ones and the no-name ones I got from Amazon are the exact same size as the OEM.
How do these compare to abstract ocean and RPM in terms of size and brightness?I ordered these 2 days ago and installed them today. (Hooray for Amazon Prime, basically no waiting.) They came out to $11/light with no tax, so comparable to AO and RPM (non-discounted).
I don’t think the size makes any difference in the difficulty. To be honest, the hardest part (which isn’t hard at all), is removing the OEM light. Once you’ve done that, popping the new light in is super simple.I rather have an easier install than needing the brightest.
I ran into some of the same challenges as you, although I had seen a video prior to my installation, where I knew you had to make sure the wires didn’t retract into the door. My rear doors were particularly tight (no slack), but I gently tugged until there was enough room to unsnap the connector.
I initially tried to use a plastic spludger to pry the old lights out, but quickly switched to a metal flat head screwdriver, covered in masking tape, to avoid scratches. This worked much better.
The trunk lights were a bit tricky, but by freeing up the liner (pulling it out of the weather stripping gasket), I was able to get my hand behind the liner to snap the new light into the rectangular plastic bracket. The trick is just angling one end of the bracket into place, first, and then snapping the other end up. Then replace the liner behind the weather stripping.
The RPM lights are considerably brighter. Here’s a photo where you can see the reflection of the front door RPM light, vs. the OEM light in the rear door:
View attachment 298045
How do these compare to abstract ocean and RPM in terms of size and brightness?
I rather have an easier install than needing the brightest.