Has anyone had their door release start to malfunction? Mine has become very unreliable; mostly when the door has been locked. Sometimes it opens part way and I have to shut it fully and try again, sometimes nothing happens for several tries. It's definitely been getting worse. If I leave the Roadster unlocked it's generally not a problem. I'm hoping that someone has experienced this and knows what part needs replacing. I'm not mechanically inclined, but it would be great if I could tell my SC what part to order in advance, so they don't have my baby sitting there for who knows how long. TIA!
Maybe simply the 12V Battery starts to fail. If this is the case, press door button, wait 20 seconds until roadster gets power from the main battery, try again.
Good idea, but when you unlock with the key fob, that already powers it up. Also, the passenger side is fine.
If you hear a noise when you attempt to open it, your problem is probably that the latch needs lubrication. If you hear nothing when you push down on the switch, then the switch is going bad or the backing plate has bent down too far to allow you to depress it. Since you get a partial opening, it sounds like it just needs some lube.
How difficult is it to adjust the backIng plate? Mine sometime gets trapped when it’s pushed down to open. Do you have references to link/instructions for dyi? TIA
Update: I now have error messages 409, 981, 1067 and 1085. I was grocery shopping, and when I went to leave, I got the messages one after another, and my Roadster would not go into drive. It's now towed to the SC, of course. Does anyone know (as I'm desperately hoping so it won't be megabucks) if this could all be due to a dead 12 V battery? P.S. - The very nice people at Trader Joe's took my groceries and put them into their refrigerator and freezer for me, until I could get back home (happily a 15 minute walk) and come back in my Prius for them.
Probably; seems like nothing is getting voltage; 409 is the tpms I believe and that is not even getting power; seems like dead 12v. you should of tried replacing when your door locks started failing.
Well, Tesla's preliminary diagnosis was the 12V. My original appointment was for the 20th, it just didn't make it that far. I'm just really hoping this is all it is.
I have a rather discouraging update: Tesla has had my Roadster for over two weeks now. They now say that they think it's the PEM. They're STILL "waiting to hear from the engineers" who are in CA. They've now dropped the PEM, and didn't check the SOC before doing so, much less charge it up first. I've never gotten a straight answer as to whether they actually tried hooking up a fresh 12V first. My confidence level in Tesla has dropped close to zero. But who knows - maybe a miracle will happen and they'll figure it out and fix it without letting the SOC go to zero first.
That's why unless it's just changing the tires or trunk struts it's best to take to your car to Carl Medlock or Pete Gruber.
The locking is handled by the VMS, which gets its power from the 12V battery and the APS. Those voltages are easily checked. I dont have a clue what they are doing with the PEM.
Recently I took my car to have wheel alignment done. 2 weeks later I realize my spline tool is missing and my wheel lock is gone as well. I called my SC...they confirmed they have my spline tool but was silent about my wheel lock. And this is the Los Angeles SC that gets more roadsters than any other in the US!
Doesn't matter where you're at (except if you're outside of the USA). Just ship it there one of these guys. And while there you mind as well do the PEM annual cleaning and whatever else you want or need (upgrades, mods, tires, etc).
I'm very sad to give this update: Tesla wants to replace the PEM. Over $9,000! I don't think they even know what's wrong with it. BTW, they wrote the estimate showing it needs a 1.5 PEM. Can't even tell the difference between a 1.5 and 2.5? Wow. It's been a wonderful 7 years for me, but I can't see spending the money. Not to mention that they have virtually zero knowledge of the Roadster, plus the (lack of) parts situation. No telling what could happen next. Too bad they don't know how to repair PEMs. Yes, I could ship it across the country, to one of the companies that could possibly just do a repair instead of replacing, but from what I've read on this forum, that wouldn't be all that much less money, plus there's the cost of shipping back and forth. So, I will see what Tesla offers. I may contact Mr. Gruber or Mr. Medlock to see what they have to offer, but that means paying who knows how much just to get it back from Tesla. So, so unhappy☹️ . Also, thanks so much for being such a supportive and helpful community!
I too had a bunch of error codes. Contact Gruber or Carl. My PEM was rebuilt by Pete and had all the critica parts replaced for $4995. Shipping was $900 round trip from CA to AZ. Definitely cheaper than Tesla's $11,000 estimate.
From the NE to Gruber is over $2k round trip... not something you would do casually. Mine has been there since February for major brain surgery.