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Draw-Tite Aftermarket Receiver Package

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That may be the way to go. The door locking nub on the trailer wiring is probably easier to get correct that way. It might look funky when nothing is attached, but if you are like me, practicality wins. I wonder if the screws are in a perfect square so I could just rotate it if I find it to be difficult?

I'm still waiting on a test tow. The "sunroof" over the shower cracked & was leaking, which required removing old lap sealant (dicor) and re-caulking. Now I'm waiting 48 hours for 80% cure. Certainly not one of my favorite repairs, and now has me second-guessing the idea of updating the roof vents to fan-tastic fans and louvers. The airstream upgrade looks better every time I fix something...
 
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OK, I've got a solution in place for now. I had to use my extra v2 hitch cover door on my v1 bottom panel, which meant a bunch of annoying and half-successful modifications. One of which was using two self-tapping screws to hold the corners in place. Not ideal, but it's a lot more covered than it was before. I still have a little grommet work to do in the back but it looks much better. Big thanks, @qadaemon, for your inspiration here. I'm happy with my wiring mount.
IMG_4496.jpg
 
OK, I've got a solution in place for now. I had to use my extra v2 hitch cover door on my v1 bottom panel, which meant a bunch of annoying and half-successful modifications. One of which was using two self-tapping screws to hold the corners in place. Not ideal, but it's a lot more covered than it was before. I still have a little grommet work to do in the back but it looks much better. Big thanks, @qadaemon, for your inspiration here. I'm happy with my wiring mount.
View attachment 239533
Just out of curiosity, the v2 panel is the same dimension, just with the attachment points changed, correct?
 
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Just out of curiosity, the v2 panel is the same dimension, just with the attachment points changed, correct?
The v2 cover has two tabs on each side that insert into slots on the bottom panel. v1 has one tab on each side, and of course it's not in the location of the other two. Additionally, v2 has two connection points at the rear which also don't align with anything on the v1 panel. And finally, it's slightly deeper so it took a little work to make it not bow out tremendously. I wouldn't suggest anyone else trying the same thing. It wasn't worth it for the final result. I'm glad it's in place, but a v1 panel or something makeshift would have been better. I may replace the entire bottom panel and cover with a new v2 system eventually.
 
I went through the steps to readjust my Equal-i-zer hitch with the new draw-tite yesterday. No adjustments were necessary to reload 50% back to the front wheels. The nose is slightly up on the camper, which I do not like, but I'm on the bottom rung of the L shank so I have limited options there. It's less than an inch front to back but I'd like it to be perfectly level.

On a related note, I had to replace my shank because of the modification I did to shorten it for the Bosal. The shorter shank would not reach back to the hitch pin hole on the new receiver. Sigh. Well, I've got a nice doorstop!
 
I have returned from a 400 mile towing trip with the new receiver. I'm very happy with the performance so far. It was stable and silent. I really appreciated the improved accessibility and added space on the safety chain hooks, as I unhitched at all four of my Supercharger stops (two out, two back), and at the campsite.

I had a neighbor at the campsite who had also purchased a Draw-Tite bar from etrailer.com. He mounted his on a Honda Odyssey and said he was very happy with it.

Next up - a new utility trailer.
 
I went through the steps to readjust my Equal-i-zer hitch with the new draw-tite yesterday. No adjustments were necessary to reload 50% back to the front wheels. The nose is slightly up on the camper, which I do not like, but I'm on the bottom rung of the L shank so I have limited options there. It's less than an inch front to back but I'd like it to be perfectly level.

On a related note, I had to replace my shank because of the modification I did to shorten it for the Bosal. The shorter shank would not reach back to the hitch pin hole on the new receiver. Sigh. Well, I've got a nice doorstop!
I had the same problem, but I just drilled out the 1/2" pin hole to 5/8 since I'll never use it, which gave plenty of room.

We just got back from our first camping trip with the draw-tite. Much better than the bosal one. Well worth the upgrade if you tow a lot.
 
I had the same problem, but I just drilled out the 1/2" pin hole to 5/8 since I'll never use it, which gave plenty of room.
I considered doing this but was concerned I'd run into the same situation where I decided I wanted a J-pin but had drilled out the 1/2". I also wanted the shank to go deeper into the receiver. I'm glad you had the same results I did. Hope you had a fun trip.
 
I considered doing this but was concerned I'd run into the same situation where I decided I wanted a J-pin but had drilled out the 1/2". I also wanted the shank to go deeper into the receiver. I'm glad you had the same results I did. Hope you had a fun trip.
Had a great time; thanks. Lots of people asked about the x and are very surprised it can tow, so it's fun to get the info out there.

Yeah I had an "anti rattle" J pin or whatever those are called some time back and hated it so I had irrational pleasure drilling out the hole. :)
 
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For those who have been following my posts, you know that I've had some issues with my trailer rig and the stock Bosal hitch adapter. I decided to replace it with this Draw-Tite fixed/welded hitch.

Before, without hitch adapter inserted:
View attachment 235788

I won't bother reproducing my own version of the manufacturer's instructions. They're quite detailed and easy to follow. I'll just show some photos of how it progressed for me.

After removing some bolts under the body and a few clips around the edges, I was able to remove the bumper fascia. It took about 20 minutes total to reach this point. Note the iPad where I followed along with the instructions.

View attachment 235789

The Bosal hitch bar in all its glory. I don't think we have a good photo of it on TMC, so if anyone's wondering how it looks under there, here's a good shot. Excuse the dust.

View attachment 235790

Just had to disconnect a wiring harness and unbolt the stock bar.

View attachment 235791

View attachment 235792

View attachment 235793

Here's a closer shot of the left side mounting point.

View attachment 235794

The Draw-Tite hitch requires 42 lb-ft of torque. My click torque wrench, dialed in.

View attachment 235795

Easy enough to mount.

View attachment 235796

At this point, I realized that there isn't a mount for the 7-pin connector. The harness has to be clipped to the X body, but what to do with the termination socket? While I finished installation, I just put it on one of the safety rungs.

View attachment 235797

..continued..
I had a similar issue with a Toyota Sienna minivan. There is an aftermarket bracket that bolts onto the receiver you can mount the receptacle to. It's kind of ugly, but if the receptacle ever comes loose wal-Mary an RV shops should have it.
Curt Easy Mount Bracket for 4- or 5-Way Flat and 6- or 7-Way Trailer Connectors - 2" Hitch Curt Accessories and Parts C58000
 
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Hello All,

Whether one would replace the Tesla OEM tow hitch or install one for the first time, what is the procedure to have it programmed to the car and what are the charges?

Thanks,
Thomas
Tesla charges $1250 retail, but that includes the Bosal hitch. I think you'd have to call the service center to find out how much to enable the software if you're installing your own hitch. If I had to guess: $750. The software is enabled through the service port under the display, so it shouldn't take long.