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Draw-Tite Aftermarket Receiver Package

Discussion in 'Model X' started by ohmman, Jul 15, 2017.

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  1. qadaemon

    qadaemon Member

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    That may be the way to go. The door locking nub on the trailer wiring is probably easier to get correct that way. It might look funky when nothing is attached, but if you are like me, practicality wins. I wonder if the screws are in a perfect square so I could just rotate it if I find it to be difficult?

    I'm still waiting on a test tow. The "sunroof" over the shower cracked & was leaking, which required removing old lap sealant (dicor) and re-caulking. Now I'm waiting 48 hours for 80% cure. Certainly not one of my favorite repairs, and now has me second-guessing the idea of updating the roof vents to fan-tastic fans and louvers. The airstream upgrade looks better every time I fix something...
     
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  2. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    OK, I've got a solution in place for now. I had to use my extra v2 hitch cover door on my v1 bottom panel, which meant a bunch of annoying and half-successful modifications. One of which was using two self-tapping screws to hold the corners in place. Not ideal, but it's a lot more covered than it was before. I still have a little grommet work to do in the back but it looks much better. Big thanks, @qadaemon, for your inspiration here. I'm happy with my wiring mount.
    IMG_4496.jpg
     
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  3. qadaemon

    qadaemon Member

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    Just out of curiosity, the v2 panel is the same dimension, just with the attachment points changed, correct?
     
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  4. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    The v2 cover has two tabs on each side that insert into slots on the bottom panel. v1 has one tab on each side, and of course it's not in the location of the other two. Additionally, v2 has two connection points at the rear which also don't align with anything on the v1 panel. And finally, it's slightly deeper so it took a little work to make it not bow out tremendously. I wouldn't suggest anyone else trying the same thing. It wasn't worth it for the final result. I'm glad it's in place, but a v1 panel or something makeshift would have been better. I may replace the entire bottom panel and cover with a new v2 system eventually.
     
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  5. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    I went through the steps to readjust my Equal-i-zer hitch with the new draw-tite yesterday. No adjustments were necessary to reload 50% back to the front wheels. The nose is slightly up on the camper, which I do not like, but I'm on the bottom rung of the L shank so I have limited options there. It's less than an inch front to back but I'd like it to be perfectly level.

    On a related note, I had to replace my shank because of the modification I did to shorten it for the Bosal. The shorter shank would not reach back to the hitch pin hole on the new receiver. Sigh. Well, I've got a nice doorstop!
     
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  6. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    I have returned from a 400 mile towing trip with the new receiver. I'm very happy with the performance so far. It was stable and silent. I really appreciated the improved accessibility and added space on the safety chain hooks, as I unhitched at all four of my Supercharger stops (two out, two back), and at the campsite.

    I had a neighbor at the campsite who had also purchased a Draw-Tite bar from etrailer.com. He mounted his on a Honda Odyssey and said he was very happy with it.

    Next up - a new utility trailer.
     
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  7. JimVandegriff

    JimVandegriff Member

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    [QUOTE="ohmman, post: 2248823, member: 21484" as I unhitched at all four of my Supercharger stops (two out, two back)
    .[/QUOTE]
    Which superchargers did you use? Glad to hear about your successful trip.
     
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  8. rhumbliner

    rhumbliner Member

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    Because the ECO Hitch comes in a 2" version which I need for my bike racks. The racks are the ultra lightweight aluminum type and need to be 2" for strength.
     
  9. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    Vacaville, Corning.
     
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  10. Xenoilphobe

    Xenoilphobe Active Member

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    I have an adapter. The goes from 1 1/4 to 2 just for this purpose. Alll my racks are 2 inch unfortunately my Miata and Ford Fusion have 1 1/4 too so solved this years ago.
     
  11. 365gtb4

    365gtb4 Member

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    Ohmman, thanks for the great writeup. Is the 12v pin on your setup hot all the time or is it off when the car is off?
     
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  12. Xenoilphobe

    Xenoilphobe Active Member

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    I have a couple of different types. I haven't tried it on the Tesla yet because I haven't installed the new DT hitch. It works great on both my Miata and Fusion. Once installed I will post pictures
     
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  13. qadaemon

    qadaemon Member

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    I had the same problem, but I just drilled out the 1/2" pin hole to 5/8 since I'll never use it, which gave plenty of room.

    We just got back from our first camping trip with the draw-tite. Much better than the bosal one. Well worth the upgrade if you tow a lot.
     
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  14. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

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    I considered doing this but was concerned I'd run into the same situation where I decided I wanted a J-pin but had drilled out the 1/2". I also wanted the shank to go deeper into the receiver. I'm glad you had the same results I did. Hope you had a fun trip.
     
  15. qadaemon

    qadaemon Member

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    Had a great time; thanks. Lots of people asked about the x and are very surprised it can tow, so it's fun to get the info out there.

    Yeah I had an "anti rattle" J pin or whatever those are called some time back and hated it so I had irrational pleasure drilling out the hole. :)
     
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  16. Rossy

    Rossy Member

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    I had a similar issue with a Toyota Sienna minivan. There is an aftermarket bracket that bolts onto the receiver you can mount the receptacle to. It's kind of ugly, but if the receptacle ever comes loose wal-Mary an RV shops should have it.
    Curt Easy Mount Bracket for 4- or 5-Way Flat and 6- or 7-Way Trailer Connectors - 2" Hitch Curt Accessories and Parts C58000
     
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  17. AustroTom

    AustroTom Member

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    Hello All,

    Whether one would replace the Tesla OEM tow hitch or install one for the first time, what is the procedure to have it programmed to the car and what are the charges?

    Thanks,
    Thomas
     
  18. qadaemon

    qadaemon Member

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    Tesla charges $1250 retail, but that includes the Bosal hitch. I think you'd have to call the service center to find out how much to enable the software if you're installing your own hitch. If I had to guess: $750. The software is enabled through the service port under the display, so it shouldn't take long.
     

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