Dreaded "Vehicle may not restart" error

[thewallaby]

update. Tesla shop put in a new updated current drive unit in one day. (one day!) Signs point to a random failure in the inverter and they will send the unit back to Freemont for examination. They also flushed the coolant, washed, and vacuumed the little beauty. No paperwork. It drives great, maybe better than before. I guess the analogy would be a short in your coil packs. I freaking LOVE Tesla service. Thank you Tesla.

I am happy you got this fixed but i am really sceptic if that ever happened to a new model 3 and they swapped the DU with a used one that has mileage on it... It used to be that people demanded new ICE engines when their new one blew. Tesla reinvented the kit-car....

 

[pipestem]

They just texted me to drop my vehicle at the SC. I got a loaner Model S as they expect it to take 2-3 days in the shop and he told me there are some recalls too. If any is still interested and I am not talking to myself here, I can post an update on the fixes they did once they are done with it.

They just texted me to drop my vehicle at the SC. I got a loaner Model S as they expect it to take 2-3 days in the shop and he told me there are some recalls too. If any is still interested and I am not talking to myself here, I can post an update on the fixes they did once they are done with it.

yeah I’d like to know what happens. Thanks

 

[Vegaforce]

yeah I’d like to know what happens. Thanks

So I just got back my car today (took 5 days at the shop). They did a recall on the chargeport pins and fixed the electrical issue reported by the vehicle.

Here is a summary of what they did:

 

[C141medic]

So I just got back my car today (took 5 days at the shop). They did a recall on the chargeport pins and fixed the electrical issue reported by the vehicle.

Here is a summary of what they did:
View attachment 606148 View attachment 606149

Great they were able to diagnose and repair your issue. Curious though why, especially since they removed the drive unit, they just didn’t replace the entire drive unit? Not sure how integral the inverter is with the drive unit?

 

[electricglider]

So, what was the outcome?

Just got an email that Tesla ordered a new 75 kWh battery pack. Googling the part number of the battery pack led me to this service bulletin to replace the high voltage battery pack in which my Model 3 does fit within the affected vehicles within the timeline stated.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148848-9999.pdf

 

[Vegaforce]

Curious though why, especially since they removed the drive unit, they just didn’t replace the entire drive unit? Not sure how integral the inverter is with the drive unit?

What is a drive unit actually? Is it a controller to the electrical motors? No idea

 

[C141medic]

What is a drive unit actually? Is it a controller to the electrical motors? No idea

To my knowledge, the drive unit is synonymous with the motor.

 

[electricglider]

So just got my Model 3 back after Tesla replaced the entire HV battery. Apparently the glycol cooling liquid leaked from its lasagna housing and spilled into the entire battery pack. They have no idea how it happened.

 

[irodbk]

Got this same error message on my 15 S, took it straight to the service center without an appointment. That was 2 days ago still waiting to hear back from them.

 

[Apone]

subscribing

 

[kmg_la]

I received the VCFRONT_a192 error message today. Took delivery on my M3 Feb 2020 and have less than 5k miles on the car. LR AWD.

Made a service appointment and the earliest date is 12/28. Hoping to hear from the SC and get an earlier appointment and a tow to the SC. Can update as I hear back.

 

[jjrandorin]

subscribing

On TMC you can actually do this (watch a thread), without posting in it. Simply click the "watch thread" link near the top of the thread when you are reading one of the pages of the thread you want to watch. No need to post to "subscribe" (watch) a thread. Its one of the nicer features of this site.

 

[kmg_la]

Update: Had my car towed to the service center. They said they ran a full diagnostic test, and that nothing was wrong with the car. Apparently this is a known issue with the model 3 (electrical power reduced error popping up when nothing’s wrong) and it should be resolved with a future firmware update.

 

[digizone]

I have a 2020 MY with less than 4k miles. Received VCFRONT_a192 & BMS_a036 a few days ago. Car was shut down and undrivable. Towed to SC. Got the car back yesterday. Nothing replaced per invoice. I asked them what was the problem. Here's their reply:
"Essentially, we unplugged, reconnected the terminals connected to the battery and retorqued to specification to ensure the system was functioning as designed. No parts were needed to be replaced"
"At this time, after escalating to our Engineering team, it was determined that the check ups done resolved the low power/shutdown concern with the vehicle and no parts were needed to be replaced"

Sounds to me that they don't know the problem so this might come back again

 

[KenC]

I have a 2020 MY with less than 4k miles. Received VCFRONT_a192 & BMS_a036 a few days ago. Car was shut down and undrivable. Towed to SC. Got the car back yesterday. Nothing replaced per invoice. I asked them what was the problem. Here's their reply:
"Essentially, we unplugged, reconnected the terminals connected to the battery and retorqued to specification to ensure the system was functioning as designed. No parts were needed to be replaced"
"At this time, after escalating to our Engineering team, it was determined that the check ups done resolved the low power/shutdown concern with the vehicle and no parts were needed to be replaced"

Sounds to me that they don't know the problem so this might come back again

Which battery? The HV or 12V? Unplugging and reconnecting to terminals sounds like the HV, but retorquing sounds like the 12V.

 

[Phlier]

Which battery? The HV or 12V? Unplugging and reconnecting to terminals sounds like the HV, but retorquing sounds like the 12V.

Probably both. I *think* you need to disconnect both the HV and 12v battery in order to do a complete reset.

 

[KenC]

Probably both. I *think* you need to disconnect both the HV and 12v battery in order to do a complete reset.

So, basically the same routine as changing one’s 12V without actually taking out the 12V.

 

[JCtx]

There shouldn't be a need to 're-torque' the 12V battery. As long as the clamp bolts are tight, they're not going to loosen up by themselves. I just checked them on the new M3 LR, and they're tight. By the way, noticed the red cap over the positive side was loose; it has one of the tabs broken. And also noticed one of the white clips missing from the cover. But more importantly, you cannot engage the darn clips in the middle of the cover, next to the cavity. If you push down harder, you push down the entire plastic. You can hear them clips wanting to engage, but they pop right back. I didn't want to push any harder. Am I the only one with this issue? It's plenty secure with the ones that latch into place, but just want to make sure it's 'normal' . Thank you.

 

[gico]

Hi,
I have read all you comments and I have a similar case but not exactly the same.
2 week ago exactly in the 17th January , I browsed the old notifications in the menu assistance in my Model X and I have found a few errors like yours : “Vehicle may not restart”, but the error codes was different of yours . My error codes was BMS_w150 and BMS_f150. I highlight these notifications wasn't active notifications

Since than I haven’t received no more other errors and my car continuing work fine

I would like to understand what happened exactly in your situation: did you have received only the first notification at the beginning and in the days after no more other notifications before your car stopped suddently ? is it happened in this way ?
sorry if my English is not very clear but It is not my mother language

Hope I have explained well what I need to know because I think is quite strange the car doesn't continue to alert if a problem is in act and it advised ony many days before as happened to me

thanks for your help

 

[MJR-VR]

There shouldn't be a need to 're-torque' the 12V battery. As long as the clamp bolts are tight, they're not going to loosen up by themselves. I just checked them on the new M3 LR, and they're tight. By the way, noticed the red cap over the positive side was loose; it has one of the tabs broken. And also noticed one of the white clips missing from the cover. But more importantly, you cannot engage the darn clips in the middle of the cover, next to the cavity. If you push down harder, you push down the entire plastic. You can hear them clips wanting to engage, but they pop right back. I didn't want to push any harder. Am I the only one with this issue? It's plenty secure with the ones that latch into place, but just want to make sure it's 'normal' . Thank you.

Mine is exactly the same the front edge will not stay clipped in via the white clips.