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Driver seat plastic lower trim keeps popping off
- Thread starter Venomized
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640k
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derichio02
Member
Old thread but I actually had this happen to me today. Was this ever fixed for you? Does anyone have instructions on how to remove this trim to replace any clips?
I'm also having this issue on our 2021 MY.
There is a plastic Rivet that pins the trim piece to the seat frame. Ours is white and round, and missing. I think the flex of the seat side pushed the trim to a point where the rivet popped out. I have a service request in, which is schedule for a month from now. They said they could send mobile service, I asked if I could just pick up a new one, they have to be no more than .50 cents. Street value probably closer to $50. I can't believe they are going to send mobile for this, but we will see.
Tesla Seat Rivet
There is a plastic Rivet that pins the trim piece to the seat frame. Ours is white and round, and missing. I think the flex of the seat side pushed the trim to a point where the rivet popped out. I have a service request in, which is schedule for a month from now. They said they could send mobile service, I asked if I could just pick up a new one, they have to be no more than .50 cents. Street value probably closer to $50. I can't believe they are going to send mobile for this, but we will see.
Tesla Seat Rivet
Oh, look what I just found. There's an animation on this page of the pin that I'm referring to.
Fix Your Tesla
Fix Your Tesla
mtx450
Member
My (May 2021 build) Model Y is also having this same problem. I have the stupid push pin. It seems like the weight of a person in the seat compresses the seat against this trim and the little *sugar* pin is the only thing holding it together, so it just separates.
Phades
Member
I have a similar issue except it's towards the back of the trim where the top and bottom portions of the seat meet. The back keeps popping out. I can push it back in easily enough, but the next time I drive the car it pops right back out. I'm not really sure how to get it to stay in place and it's annoying.
I had the same issue on my 08/21 build MY. Brought it to the service center and they fixed it under warranty. They also accommodated my request to make the repair with a self tapping screw (which was used on earlier MY builds) instead of the currently used pin. That part of the seat has been rock solid ever since.
OP this a poor-design/tall-driver problem.
The bottom of the #5 in pic seat trim tensions against the floor as the seat reaches its lowest position, laterally displacing the bottom edge. Add my 200lb butt pushing on the left seat bolster displacing the top edge and POP, comes out the rectangular large plastic tab fitting into the hole the #7 on the metal frame as seen the above pic.
As for the #9 front tab, mine remains perfectly secured.
Solutions IMHO are:
1. Applying 3M double sided red cover automotive tape on the frame to attach the #5 trim all along, this way only the
top will bend as the bolster keeps pushing it. Shaving off the bottom of this trim piece will prevent it from catching on
the floor, just make sure to smooth it well to avoid tearing up the carpet.
2. Peasant fix by pouring multipurpose silicone on the retaining tab (big one in the middle) before popping it back in, no sitting or max seat lowering for 2 hours. The downside could that several years of daily stress later the tab could break off.
The bottom of the #5 in pic seat trim tensions against the floor as the seat reaches its lowest position, laterally displacing the bottom edge. Add my 200lb butt pushing on the left seat bolster displacing the top edge and POP, comes out the rectangular large plastic tab fitting into the hole the #7 on the metal frame as seen the above pic.
As for the #9 front tab, mine remains perfectly secured.
Solutions IMHO are:
1. Applying 3M double sided red cover automotive tape on the frame to attach the #5 trim all along, this way only the
top will bend as the bolster keeps pushing it. Shaving off the bottom of this trim piece will prevent it from catching on
the floor, just make sure to smooth it well to avoid tearing up the carpet.
2. Peasant fix by pouring multipurpose silicone on the retaining tab (big one in the middle) before popping it back in, no sitting or max seat lowering for 2 hours. The downside could that several years of daily stress later the tab could break off.
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OK, fixed it another way. The lower 1/5 of the seat trim is hard rubber rather than plastic, the design intention is for it to fold under as the seat lower, however this is the part that gets stuck on the carpet tensioning the entire piece.
#11 hobby blade all the way from back to front, fingers carrying the leading edge as I cut to displace cabling for seat controls out of the way. Checked passenger side and issue is not repeatable there, weird. Checked carpets, turns out cabling comes out from under the carpet on left side of both seats looking from behind, that is why carpet is lower passenger door side and no rubbing.
Here seat is fully raised, removed part resting on door sill.
Here seat is fully lowered, no more carpet contact, and no more bending to tension retaining tab, looks a lot better viewed from above.
#11 hobby blade all the way from back to front, fingers carrying the leading edge as I cut to displace cabling for seat controls out of the way. Checked passenger side and issue is not repeatable there, weird. Checked carpets, turns out cabling comes out from under the carpet on left side of both seats looking from behind, that is why carpet is lower passenger door side and no rubbing.
Here seat is fully raised, removed part resting on door sill.
Here seat is fully lowered, no more carpet contact, and no more bending to tension retaining tab, looks a lot better viewed from above.
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Bad news, pops out again. 230lb 6'3", pressure on the upper edge at egress is the real culprit. Next step is 3M double sided tape or JB Weld the pin into the hole (extreme). Below here someone is talking about zipties.
Some ideas from another forum.
Some ideas from another forum.
I have a similar issue with my 2022 MYLR7, except mine doesn't pop off at the pin point, mine *pops outs* towards the middle, leaving a very large and unsightly gap. I can usually pop it back into place, but it's not a tight pop so it pops back out next time I get out of the car. I'm on the heavier side as well. I haven't contacted the SC because I'm worried they're going to tell me this isn't a defect, but I don't see why that piece keeps popping out, even if I am a fat guy.
It’s certainly worth a shot to have them fix it. Worst they can say is “within spec”I have a similar issue with my 2022 MYLR7, except mine doesn't pop off at the pin point, mine *pops outs* towards the middle, leaving a very large and unsightly gap. I can usually pop it back into place, but it's not a tight pop so it pops back out next time I get out of the car. I'm on the heavier side as well. I haven't contacted the SC because I'm worried they're going to tell me this isn't a defect, but I don't see why that piece keeps popping out, even if I am a fat guy.
Got 'R Dawn! For the life of the car hopefully. I pulled, pushed, and sat on the edge, no signs of separation.
The retaining pin has two holes, a large outdoor ziptie fits through each easily.
You don't need to remove the front self-tapping screw (2022 Tesla learned) but only:
-raise the seat pushing the tab back in,
-enter from rear footwell area under the seat and use left hand to
push trim towards seat while passing the front hole tie with right hand under seat, tighten then cut (no wires), then
-rear hole making sure you enter from bottom pointing forward looping around the first ziptie
(no room to loop backwards), cut.
Please make sure you feel with fingers around the cutter so no wires are cut, also before passing tie through loop
ensure no wires have been trapped.
I would have taken interior photos but space is too tight,
work was by feeling and hopefully watching these pics will help.
Here you see the clip, next to the controls housing:
This is just to show how they fit, they will be passed on the interior side of the metal frame once pin and trim assembly have been pushed in.
The retaining pin has two holes, a large outdoor ziptie fits through each easily.
You don't need to remove the front self-tapping screw (2022 Tesla learned) but only:
-raise the seat pushing the tab back in,
-enter from rear footwell area under the seat and use left hand to
push trim towards seat while passing the front hole tie with right hand under seat, tighten then cut (no wires), then
-rear hole making sure you enter from bottom pointing forward looping around the first ziptie
(no room to loop backwards), cut.
Please make sure you feel with fingers around the cutter so no wires are cut, also before passing tie through loop
ensure no wires have been trapped.
I would have taken interior photos but space is too tight,
work was by feeling and hopefully watching these pics will help.
Here you see the clip, next to the controls housing:
This is just to show how they fit, they will be passed on the interior side of the metal frame once pin and trim assembly have been pushed in.
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