Wow, I’m running 267 over 20k and did 250 something with my m3 before.Similar thread here.
Here's my response.
Why my Wh/mi so bad?
Hi Guys, so I recently received my model y long range. It’s a 7 seater with laminar wheel cover from Rimetrix. I’ve been mostly driving local with AC set to 68-70 with only 1 passenger. I dunno why my wh/mi so bad. Any idea? Speed was mostly within 30-45.teslamotorsclub.com
Why my Wh/mi so bad?
OR... you live in NYC... so maybe sitting in traffic with the A/C on.
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Driving Range less than expected with new MY-LR
- Thread starter Ron J.
- Start date
Over the "winter" here in FL my wife with her daily driving was easily hitting the EPA wh/mi and regularly exceeding it. Now that it's into the 90s almost every day with the AC working much harder we're seeing 300+ wh/mi on the same drives. Every time you stop and get out for any period of time the AC has to cool the car down 60-70 degrees when you get back in and work that much harder to maintain a reasonable temperature. She is also a big fan of setting the climate control to active when going into the store or other errands. This is a big advantage of an EV so why the heck would she not use it to make her life more comfortable/enjoyable?
We still only have to plug in and charge to 80% every three days normally. When we can recoup daily driving battery usage at home before we even go to bed then wh/mi is really the last thing on our minds.
We still only have to plug in and charge to 80% every three days normally. When we can recoup daily driving battery usage at home before we even go to bed then wh/mi is really the last thing on our minds.
Funny you say this because it is obviously 100% true but we have about 5,000 miles of road tripping since picking up our MYLR last November and we have past more superchargers than we have stopped at by a lot. I guess double that number if you throw EA in there. Our range anxiety was squashed the moment we started flying past chargers lol.
Thanks for the inputs, from a fellow SW FL resident. BTY do you know Larry Chanin (Sarasota resident and former founder/President of the Florida Tesla
Enthusiasts Club)?
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
I sometimes forget how pedantic you have to be around here given peoples’ defensiveness and need for confirmation bias.
Yes, I too can come up with a trip that meets or exceeds EPA range. Hell, there’s a 40 mile trip I can take that terminates at my home and uses less than 50 wh/mi. Sure, there’s 4500 feet of elevation decline, but hey, it’s possible to exceed EPA range!
Refining my statement for the pedants: it is essentially impossible to get EPA rated range in any modern Tesla over any significant period of time and variable driving conditions, specifically as compared to other EVs. This is deliberate and by design as Tesla has learned to aggressively game the EPA cycle and decided that advertising big numbers is more important than actually delivering them.
That doesn’t make the number a “lie” - they’re clearly following the letter of the law if not the spirit of it. However it does make them an outlier and wrecks the ability to conduct relative comparisons, which is what EPA ratings SHOULD enable. Given identical conditions, a Tesla will nearly always use more rated range miles to cover a given distance than pretty much any other EV on the market.
sleepydoc
Well-Known Member
Umm, yeah. I guess I'm being pedantic, but there's a significant difference between those two statements. Sorry if I pissed you off by answering what you wrote the first time, but if you can't write what you mean then don't expect people to answer what you meant. Actually, I take that back, I'm not being pedantic. You wrote a very black and white statement that was false and I showed you it was false.
150 miles is not a significant enough period of time? (FYI - I looked up the elevation change for my trip. It was just under 300 feet over 150 miles)This was about as real world as you can get - I hopped in my car and drove it home from the cabin. Northern Wisconsin to Minneapolis. Real traffic, real weather, real driving.
I don't disagree that the EPA should have more consistent guidelines for the ratings but quite honestly, as long as they're playing by the rules the EPA sets forth the fault lies with the EPA, not Tesla.
mangrove79
Member
No, I don't. But thanks for the info, I'll look up the club here.
BTW, one way to improve your summer numbers is to tint your windows AND get good sunshades for windshield/roof, if you haven't already. If you don't mind the stiff suspension, you can also increase your tire pressure. I keep mine at 42 cold. The last (extreme) thing you can do is turn off Cabin Overheat Protection if your car is always garaged, but again that's too extreme for me.
It is indeed possible to get the EPA range in real world driving conditions. It does require effort, though. Below is a screenshot of my 'Trips' page. Over 25,000 miles I have averaged 242 Whr/m, and that includes the recent high speed (speed limit + 5 to 7 mph) round trip to San Diego (with extensive AC use) as well as other not so recent long distance trips. Keep your Tesla in Chill Acceleration mode and drive gently (doesn't mean drive slow, necessarily, just avoiding rapid acceleration and anticipating traffic lights or other slowdowns ahead). The less you use your brakes, the lower your Whr/mi will be.
Just turn off the AC on the overheat protection, not the fan. And use your phone app to cool your car for a few before getting in.
mangrove79
Member
Wow, 6K mile trip to SD, impressive. You must have been in the low 230s before the trip. That's crazy considering NC winter gets pretty cold.
sleepydoc
Well-Known Member
No, you're clearly making it up. It's impossible to get that kind of range in real world driving. Impossible, I tell you! An the acceleration doesn't matter. It's elementary physics. you can stomp on the accelerator and it won't make any difference! /s
@ZenRockGarden
Nice stats - and a great example for others. Lo and behold, many of the principles that apply to ICE cars also apply to EVs - conservative driving is easier on the car and easier on the pocketbook.
At 70 mph a lot of the energy is used in pushing air out of the way. As far as A/C goes, I parked my S on a hot asphalt parking lot all day waiting for an eclipse. running the A/C set to 72 degrees F gave my daughter a cool place to feed her baby. I lost about 8 miles of range for each hour I ran the A/C. That was a lot less than I’d expected.
If you turn on the A/C in a hot car, there will be additional power consumption as the interior is cooled to the set temperature. That means you won’t want to take the energy consumption data from the first few miles of a trip. It’s the same in winter with running the heat, that largely increases displayed energy consumption, especially with short trips.
Since air is a fluid, air resistance goes up as the square of the velocity. That’s for laminar flow. But the car would be silent (almost) if the air flow was laminar. You have wind noise, that’s an indication of turbulent air flow and for turbulent flow the air resistance goes way up with increasing velocity.
There’s also some drag from your tires. All that tire noise is energy use. If you have the performance option with the larger wheels, there will be enough additional rolling resistance that Tesla calculates a different maximum range for the vehicle based on that alone.
Anyway the most effective thing you can do to increase range is to slow down, that and keep the tires inflated to the maximum allowed.
Other things that will affect your power consumption are hills, winds, altitude, and air temperature. You might think not running the A/C and keeping the windows open would be good. It isn’t, at highway speeds open windows increase drag to use far more energy than the A/C consumes, so opening windows actually increases power use.
The displayed range is more for comparison than anything else, it allows you to compare one car configuration to another. How much range you actually get depends a lot on your driving.
Range isn’t really all that important anyway. No one drives until the battery is completely exhausted. Most of us don’t charge above 80-90 percent of capacity to preserve our long term battery health. So you are now looking at using something around 60-70% of the published available range, not always using that full published mileage range.
Enjoy the car, it’s amazing. Try not to worry too much about range and power consumption unless you really need to. Now if this range thing is a real bugaboo for you, try fully inflating the tires, shut off everything that uses additional power, reduce the weight to a minimum, pick a windless day, and drive on flat ground at 45 mph for an hour or so. That will tell you how much power the car actually uses to push itself along. It won’t help you, though, since none of us drive that way. Still bugaboos sometimes need to be squashed.
Best,
David
If you turn on the A/C in a hot car, there will be additional power consumption as the interior is cooled to the set temperature. That means you won’t want to take the energy consumption data from the first few miles of a trip. It’s the same in winter with running the heat, that largely increases displayed energy consumption, especially with short trips.
Since air is a fluid, air resistance goes up as the square of the velocity. That’s for laminar flow. But the car would be silent (almost) if the air flow was laminar. You have wind noise, that’s an indication of turbulent air flow and for turbulent flow the air resistance goes way up with increasing velocity.
There’s also some drag from your tires. All that tire noise is energy use. If you have the performance option with the larger wheels, there will be enough additional rolling resistance that Tesla calculates a different maximum range for the vehicle based on that alone.
Anyway the most effective thing you can do to increase range is to slow down, that and keep the tires inflated to the maximum allowed.
Other things that will affect your power consumption are hills, winds, altitude, and air temperature. You might think not running the A/C and keeping the windows open would be good. It isn’t, at highway speeds open windows increase drag to use far more energy than the A/C consumes, so opening windows actually increases power use.
The displayed range is more for comparison than anything else, it allows you to compare one car configuration to another. How much range you actually get depends a lot on your driving.
Range isn’t really all that important anyway. No one drives until the battery is completely exhausted. Most of us don’t charge above 80-90 percent of capacity to preserve our long term battery health. So you are now looking at using something around 60-70% of the published available range, not always using that full published mileage range.
Enjoy the car, it’s amazing. Try not to worry too much about range and power consumption unless you really need to. Now if this range thing is a real bugaboo for you, try fully inflating the tires, shut off everything that uses additional power, reduce the weight to a minimum, pick a windless day, and drive on flat ground at 45 mph for an hour or so. That will tell you how much power the car actually uses to push itself along. It won’t help you, though, since none of us drive that way. Still bugaboos sometimes need to be squashed.
Best,
David
Additionally, one cannot apply elementary physics in all situations. If one stands outside, arms outstretched, with a bucket of sand held in each hand, and you keep the buckets level, elementary physics tells us you are doing no work at all. Elementary physics forces us to ignore a lot. Wind resistance, friction, tire drag, turbulent air flow, boundary layers, and any number of other factors.
sleepydoc
Well-Known Member
SkyDog
Member
SkyDog
Member
I use the HVAC like I always did with any other car. I got the MY in February so I definitely used the heat a lot. There have only been a few really hot days here so I haven't used the AC much yet - I like to keep the windows open when on smaller 45 mph country roads, which is the majority of my driving.
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