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Ear pain/Pressure help

polyphonic54

Member
Aug 29, 2019
249
187
USA
In case this is of interest:

Edmunds on ID.4 "Impact harshness is kept at bay, and there's no floaty rebounds either. In the absence of a conventional gasoline engine, some EVs suffer from this boomy sounding interior, but that's not the case with the ID.4. It remains blissfully quiet, even on the roughest of surfaces"

As an Audi e-tron owner, this has my attention. I LOVED the Model Y test drive, but like with e-tron the Body Boom is a dealbreaker for me. My second Model Y test vehicle was only marginally better than e-tron for booming.
 
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MY-Y

Member
Mar 4, 2020
823
871
MD
I second what @MY-Y says about the buffeting, at least for my car, making sure the catch is lowered (mine was already low but was able to adjust for a few more mm) and adjusting the 4 stops.

What was harder to address was the booming coming from the back. I ordered sheets of Noico from Amazon some time ago, and got to do this today:
Butyl sheets: https://amzn.to/2NH3sCK
PE foam sound deadener: https://amzn.to/3sC6qqY
roller: https://amzn.to/3q43IZA

I had been experimenting by putting very heavy books in the rear subtrunk area and noticed how weighing down that area reduced unwanted noise. I suspect that repeated contact with the foam board and the bottom of the semi-rigid subtrunk liner was producing a pounding noise. Weighing down the subtrunk likely reduced movement and unwanted banging and the additional mass also reduced noise.

This is the first time I've applied sound deadener to a car, but after repeatedly driving our Model 3 and the Y, it was clear that the Y produced too much noise from the back, even though I've already changed tires and to MPP comfort coilovers. I also have used the butyl sheets for my home theater to reduce vibrations in some aluminum shelves and window roller shade facia covers that would become distracting on loud movies, and have noticed the big improvements from using these sheets. I'll probably use extra sheets for my washer/dryer.

This is just DIY, so it's an amateur application, though I did my best to roll each sheet with multiple passes as well as I could; it's going to be a workout and would cost about $130 in amazon supplies. It took me about 3 hours to do all of these today.

First applying the thinner, but heavy butyl sheets. Need to use a roller with this. Wear gloves, otherwise butyl will stick to your fingers. Used scissors to cut the sheets, but you can also use a knife.

To determine what needed application and how much, I knocked each surface and listened for resonating noise. The metal portions I left alone for the butyl sheets were either sufficiently solid (ex. the diecast structures) or needed to be left exposed for fasteners or potentially ventilation (would not want to introduce further ear pressure issues). I also applied under the smaller sub trunk area (butyl + PE foam), which already has 2 strips of sound material from the factory, but there was still plenty of resonating noise; pretty sure Tesla did not want to expend too much material, time and add weight to the car (and get less range) for comfort improvements.

Afterwards I topped it with the PE foam which can simply be stuck on like a sticker; no roller involved. I made sure to especially apply this thoroughly in the subtrunk area as I suspect that's where most of the booming sound is coming from. As I was applying this and continued pounding the panels, I noticed less and less resonating noise, and the metal pieces were sounding much more substantial and solid.

After I took these photos I made a few incisions in the PE foam corners in the subtrunk area to relieve some pressure and allow the subtrunk to be inserted more flush. I probably over-applied and had overlapping PE foam which caused the subtrunk liner to crease a bit after I was done; might revisit that and cut out the overlapping foam another day.

Applying just 2 sheets of butyl to the frame made a surprising sound difference on what is a very rigid metal frame; made this short video clip:

View attachment 640801
View attachment 640805 View attachment 640802 View attachment 640803 View attachment 640804

After a good drive and deliberately driving over rough patches (potholes, rutted portions of road, road reflectors), there's a significant improvement in reduced noise from the back. I'm very happy with the outcome. Can focus more on driving and driving fast than always minding the large increase in noise that usually comes with it.
I ordered the stuff from Amazon you mentioned and did something similar. A few thoughts.

1. I put the foil butyl on the outside of the trunk bucket. It allowed me to cover the bottom as well.
2. I didn't put butyl where you did on the crash supports (shown in your video) because I think it will significantly impact their sliding in during a crash.
3. I put both sound sheets inside the 1/4 panels. I think this was the main benefit.

Overall, the low frequency is a little better. The road noise is quite a bit better - so much that I notice wind noise now. I just ordered the two RPM Tesla kits.

1/4 panel under charge port
20210308_203207.jpg

1/4 panel on passenger's side with sub.

20210308_203141.jpg


Up inside driver's side 1/4. Note, no foam block from Sandy video - quite the echo chamber before I added the material.
20210308_203054.jpg

Butyl on outside of bucket .
20210308_203033.jpg
 
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gundarx

Member
Feb 5, 2020
208
288
Renton, WA
I ordered the stuff from Amazon you mentioned and did something similar. A few thoughts.

1. I put the foil butyl on the outside of the trunk bucket. It allowed me to cover the bottom as well.
2. I didn't put butyl where you did on the crash supports (shown in your video) because I think it will significantly impact their sliding in during a crash.
3. I put both sound sheets inside the 1/4 panels. I think this was the main benefit.

Overall, the low frequency is a little better. The road noise is quite a bit better - so much that I notice wind noise now. I just ordered the two RPM Tesla kits.

1/4 panel under charge port
View attachment 642785
1/4 panel on passenger's side with sub.

View attachment 642786

Up inside driver's side 1/4. Note, no foam block from Sandy video - quite the echo chamber before I added the material.
View attachment 642787
Butyl on outside of bucket .
View attachment 642788

Nice job!

I had trouble removing the subfrunk bucket so just sealed things on the side facing the cabin. Did you also apply sound deadener foam material on top of the styrofoam insulator on top of the bucket? Without that, it might still be adding some low frequency pounding into the cabin, at least that’s what I suspect.

Good point on the crash structure. Might revisit that on mine when I also remove the side panels to apply more butyl/foam.

The MY is actually pretty good on wind noise as-is though need to apply 303 rubber seal conditioner https://amzn.to/3btwPl1 on all doors and the rear hatch rubber every 3 months or so to keep the noise isolation good.
 

MY-Y

Member
Mar 4, 2020
823
871
MD
Nice job!

I had trouble removing the subfrunk bucket so just sealed things on the side facing the cabin. Did you also apply sound deadener foam material on top of the styrofoam insulator on top of the bucket? Without that, it might still be adding some low frequency pounding into the cabin, at least that’s what I suspect.

Good point on the crash structure. Might revisit that on mine when I also remove the side panels to apply more butyl/foam.

The MY is actually pretty good on wind noise as-is though need to apply 303 rubber seal conditioner https://amzn.to/3btwPl1 on all doors and the rear hatch rubber every 3 months or so to keep the noise isolation good.
I haven't added insulation to the top of the Styrofoam; I'll do that. If you ever need to remove the bucket, remove the 4 13mm bolts on the corners, one inverted Torx (I had the socket, but needle nose pliers would work), and the five 10mm bolt that hold the belly pan (from under the car).

Thanks for the idea and inspiration. I think you'll be pleased with the difference treating the 1/4 panels makes. I considered pulling the sub to treat behind it, but didn't. I also didn't treat behind the amp so it wouldn't impact its cooling.

BTW, I never noticed any wind noise before doing this job. I think the tire noise drowned it out. Now that the tire noise is muted, the wind noise is more prevalent.

I did one interesting test while doing this project. I wanted to see how much noise the trunk bucket kept out, so I drove without it. That was very loud, with all kinds of annoying high frequency motor noises. I didn't notice more boominess, although it may have been drowned out by the great increase in road noise without the bucket. That is why I focused on the 1/4 panels. I think the low frequency noise is primarily from hatch movement, but am not certain (yet). For sure, my initial subsonic noise was from incorrectly adjusted hatch stops.

One more thing, I unclipped the rear 3/4ths of the side panels dropped the rear seats, and flexed the panels out of the way. I didn't remove the rear seat belts nor the clips by the rear doors.
 
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ryanjeffords

Member
Dec 19, 2020
199
258
Texas
So I took advantage of the warm weather over the past couple days and spent a bunch of time refining my adjustments of the liftgate stops. I'm pretty sure that previously I had the upper passenger side one adjusted out too far. Here is what I did to get a better adjustment:

1. Adjust all of them in (clockwise) until none of them would hold an envelope placed between them and the liftgate.
2. Adjust them all out until they all applied just a little holding pressure on the envelope. This required several liftgate open/close cycles, and for the stoppers on the bottom of the liftgate I climbed inside the back of the vehicle so I could place the envelope from the inside where it wouldn't contact the liftgate seal (I used the phone app to open/close the liftgate while back there). This is also an important step because if you adjust any one of them out to the point that it is applying firm pressure to the liftgate, it will influence the adjustments of the others and you will be iterating endlessly.
3. Once they were all at a uniform adjustment where each one held the envelope just slightly, I adjusted all of them one quarter turn out (counter clockwise) and re-tested.
4. I then iterated on step 3 until I reached the first position where they all held the envelope firmly. I then backed them all out one additional quarter turn counter clockwise for good measure.

I think the whole process took about 20-30 minutes and a lot of climbing in and out of the back of the vehicle. Watch your head when the liftgate comes down while you're back there!

So now that all four stops are contacting the liftgate firmly and with equal pressure, I'm happy to say that the high speed pulsating ear pressure is gone completely, and the booming when going over bumps is reduced by about 90%. I'm actually a little surprised about that last part, but also relieved. I told my wife that I adjusted it, and after her first drive in it she confirmed that it is no longer causing her any ear problems. This is such a relief because I was seriously wondering if we were going to be able to keep the vehicle before this adjustment. I feel like we're finally accepting our new Model Y into our family and starting to enjoy it after a rough first week. (My Model 3, BTW, continues to be perfect).

I am a bit baffled that these vehicles are escaping the factory this way. I also can imagine that many people will never make these relatively simple adjustments. As a loyal Tesla owner, I have to admit that Tesla really needs to address this situation by fixing their liftgate adjustments at the factory and training their service techs on how to make this adjustment for customers experiencing this problem.
Just wanted to follow up on this. I followed these exact instructions and reset all of my stoppers and then adjusted them out until they were all balanced. I think this got me to about 90% reduction in pressure issues as well. It's not completely gone, but it's drastically improved to the point where I didn't even notice it on a 120-140 mile trip.

What I found was one stopper was definitely not as tight as another...and that may have caused some imbalance in the tightness of the hatch. All 4 stoppers need to have the same amount of contact to work properly to reduce the ear pressure in the cabin.

Thanks again, friend! This was a big win!
 
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Pianewman

Member
Oct 28, 2020
590
324
Fort Worth
Just wanted to follow up on this. I followed these exact instructions and reset all of my stoppers and then adjusted them out until they were all balanced. I think this got me to about 90% reduction in pressure issues as well. It's not completely gone, but it's drastically improved to the point where I didn't even notice it on a 120-140 mile trip.

What I found was one stopper was definitely not as tight as another...and that may have caused some imbalance in the tightness of the hatch. All 4 stoppers need to have the same amount of contact to work properly to reduce the ear pressure in the cabin.

Thanks again, friend! This was a big win!
...and to properly keep the hatch stable. I'm amazed that Tesla QC is so casual about this. The twisting/torquing on the hatch could cause issues: premature wear on the hinges/latches, stress on the glass, for instance.
 
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polyphonic54

Member
Aug 29, 2019
249
187
USA
Absolutely. They’re also losing some number of sales, which is a shame because it’s such a nice driving car. I wish I could drive one of the “fixed” cars to see the potential noise reduction.
 

Pianewman

Member
Oct 28, 2020
590
324
Fort Worth
I have to say, now that I've stabilized the hatch, and the tires/dampers have almost 3k miles, I'm thoroughly enjoying the car. Absolutely ZERO rattles/buzzes in my car, minimal wind noise (ordered the "noise" suppression gasket kits). Yes, the ride is still harsh over lousy pavement, but no more harsh than the various VW/Audis I've owned, with Bilstein dampers.
 

Dan888

Member
Feb 10, 2021
8
4
Huntsville, AL
After driving with the epoxy putty pads I made for a while I believe They have made a significant difference. I took them out without telling my wife and she quickly noticed a difference. The intensity and duration of the boom is less, which seems consistent with the fact that I stopped 1/2 the movement (downward). The hatch can still move up over a bump. I’m also trying to make foam inserts but still working out the process of making them. I’m using expanding spray foam inside of a pouch, letting it expand with the tailgate closed so it forms to the shape of the void.
 

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new-Instance

Member
Dec 17, 2020
9
18
Florida
After driving with the epoxy putty pads I made for a while I believe They have made a significant difference. I took them out without telling my wife and she quickly noticed a difference. The intensity and duration of the boom is less, which seems consistent with the fact that I stopped 1/2 the movement (downward). The hatch can still move up over a bump. I’m also trying to make foam inserts but still working out the process of making them. I’m using expanding spray foam inside of a pouch, letting it expand with the tailgate closed so it forms to the shape of the void.
You guys are right! A major source of the booming is the hatch itself! I was able to take the hatch cover off after watching this video:

Model Y kick sensor install

Once I took the cover and banged on the metal with my hand it was clear to me this could definitely be a potential source of the booming. So, I added the sound proofing materials that gundarx posted and wow! The volume of the booming sound is quite a bit lower! I'm very happy with the result! :) I can enjoy driving the car now without that loud booming sound bothering me on rough roads.

gundarx thank you so much for sharing the sound proofing materials!
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MY-Y

Member
Mar 4, 2020
823
871
MD
A word of caution on soundproofing the hatch. I put butyl and foam on the entire back and just had to pull ~40% of it back out (glad I got it before the butyl become one with the steel). The extra weight prevented the hatch from lifting up automatically.

Treating the hatch did reduce the low frequency noise a lot though. Definitely worth doing IMO.
 
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tibook

Member
Feb 6, 2021
80
41
VA
Would be curious if we can devise an optimum treatment plan, since as you said, adding weight to the hatch will be problematic. I ordered a bunch of soundproofing as well to see what I can do to tighten things up.
 

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