Ear pain/Pressure help

[insaneoctane]

@ilovecoffee ... wouldn't it be easier to just pull the seal off and insert it then reinstall the seal? This way you can sort of straighten up the seal to make the tube slide in easier.

It probably depends on whether or not the seal is afixed to the body with any adhesives or not. My experience is they generally have something in use to keep them in place.

 

[PecuniaNonOlet]

It is also getting warmer in the northern hemisphere which causes many materials to expand which will tighten up the body leaving less room for vibration. Speaking from personal experience, it makes a difference. I thought I had the situation under control until the next winter came.

 

[dupeks]

@ilovecoffee Thanks for the info on the fix. Obviously I have not done it yet, but regarding inserting the vinyl tubing, wouldn't it be easier to just pull the seal off and insert it then reinstall the seal? This way you can sort of straighten up the seal to make the tube slide in easier.

Having inserted 5/16 tubing, removed it, inserted 3/8 tubing, removed it, and re-inserted 5/16 tubing I would say it's easy enough (5-10min each time) to do with a little bit of silicone spray (little holes clutch) and massaging. Removing and re-seating the seal seems like more work, but if you opt to do it would be curious for you to report back your experience.

Can anyone offer a thought as to if reducing the pressure on the stops to where the envelope pulls out (with force) would help the problem? Didn't make sense to me, so didn't bother loosening them, but thought I'd give the forum a chance to suggest maybe I should of thought about it differently...

If your stops are unevenly tight that may cause weird tension and make your hatch resonant in unexpected ways? If the fit is very tight but uneven then your hatch may kind of wobble over rough road surfaces as it absorbs the energy. Kind of a stretch, and I generally agree that a tighter fit should help the problem not hurt it. Did you try adjusting the plastic stoppers on the side to ensure that the contact of the hatch stop is nice and complete circle?

 

[ilovecoffee]

@ilovecoffee Thanks for the info on the fix. Obviously I have not done it yet, but regarding inserting the vinyl tubing, wouldn't it be easier to just pull the seal off and insert it then reinstall the seal? This way you can sort of straighten up the seal to make the tube slide in easier.

One person did this according to the comments on the YouTube video and claimed it was easier.

I don't know but it's extremely easy to put the 5/16” OD tubing in without removing it...

 

[ilovecoffee]

@ilovecoffee or anyone else who successfully fixed the hatch booming....I'm a new owner of a 2023 MY and have almost immediately noticed the booming/resonance over rough roads. Like, WOW. This vintage comes with the parcel shelf already installed. Anyway, I figured I'd start with adjusting the stops to see if that might make an improvement. I used an envelope and pulled the upper from outside the car to avoid the weather stripping from influencing the results and then pulled the lower stops from within the trunk. All 4 were super tight....as in I couldn't pull the envelope out. I didn't rip it, but am confident it would have torn before slipping out. This seems like the ideal situation if rigidity is the goal, yet my car booms. Can anyone offer a thought as to if reducing the pressure on the stops to where the envelope pulls out (with force) would help the problem? Didn't make sense to me, so didn't bother loosening them, but thought I'd give the forum a chance to suggest maybe I should of thought about it differently...

I've adjusted them maybe 60 or 70 different times LOL before every drive for a while trying to understand if it's some magic millimetre precision I might stumble upon. I never got good results from it being looser. Being comically over extended did help but wasn't a solution either (found that out the hard way in the car wash).

 

[cab]

For those with a the "angry" hatch pop (aka from being too tight) after inserting the tubing in the hatch seal, is the hatch latch adjustable on the Model Y? When I went through all of this years before you guys did (on my 2013 Model S - note: replaced rubber hatch adjusters with firmer rubber as my "closest thing to a cure" back then), I messed with the hatch latch height quite a bit (the holes were oblong and allowed for a lof of adjustment). Sorry if that has already been covered!

 

[Myles.]

I'll also add that as far as pressure goes, this was a meaningful to silver bullet solution for me. Vinyl tubing + hatch stop calibration didn't do the trick, but turning the left plastic cap clockwise and the right plastic cup counter clockwise did. I'm inclined to believe that the combination of all these steps was necessary.

Unfortunately for me the boominess of the cabin is truly a separate issue. Putting a 12lb. sound blanket into the under trunk storage area helped a bit, and laying it over the entire rear trunk area helped but not quite as much. Either way it's quite clear that the boominess is not an issue isolated to the rear hatch or trunk areas. Indeed putting down the sound blanket made me realize how much of the sound actually comes from the front of the car.

I'm quite interested to try to front wheel well noise insulation though I can't imagine it'll offer much more than a decibel improvement. There is something fundamental and almost mystical about the low frequency sounds that run through this vehicle.

As a followup on this I just took a major roadtrip with a full trunk, and the deep resonant sound was completely eliminated. So to summarize:

• The pressure issue and the boominess are separate problems.
• The pressure issue can be fixed with tubing, hatch stop adjustments, and rotation of the bottom hatch stops.

Which leaves the broader problem of deep resonant frequencies. Given that a double layered 12lb. sound blanket over the trunk does very little, though a bit more when placed in the underfloor storage area...I'm inclined to believe that the sound isn't originating from the trunk area, but rather traveling to that area and bouncing around in it. This would explain why no amount of sound proofing measures, butyl installation, etc. anyone has taken have cured the problem.

Now I'm wondering if there's somewhere else in the cabin we can target. For now I feel like sound blanket or similar in the under floor storage area, plus the parcel shelf, is about as good as you're going to get while keeping your trunk mostly usable for daily life.

 

[WADan]

As a followup on this I just took a major roadtrip with a full trunk, and the deep resonant sound was completely eliminated. So to summarize:

• The pressure issue and the boominess are separate problems.
• The pressure issue can be fixed with tubing, hatch stop adjustments, and rotation of the bottom hatch stops.

Which leaves the broader problem of deep resonant frequencies. Given that a double layered 12lb. sound blanket over the trunk does very little, though a bit more when placed in the underfloor storage area...I'm inclined to believe that the sound isn't originating from the trunk area, but rather traveling to that area and bouncing around in it. This would explain why no amount of sound proofing measures, butyl installation, etc. anyone has taken have cured the problem.

Now I'm wondering if there's somewhere else in the cabin we can target. For now I feel like sound blanket or similar in the under floor storage area, plus the parcel shelf, is about as good as you're going to get while keeping your trunk mostly usable for daily life.

I agree that the noise seems to be coming from the front (tires).
I had mention in one of my previous post that after I covered the rear wheel wells with butyl, both my wife (which has extremely good hearing) and I thought that is where the noise originates from.

 

[cab]

In my older Model S, I had a sunshade covering the front and rear glass (it was two sections back then). Between the shade and the glass I had a sheet of melamine foam. I did so many things, I can't say for sure it helped, but any ideas to control the sound reflections might help. If I were to try that again, I would use some 3M thinsulate instead.
As a side note, my wife and I recently test drove a Model Y on our "booming/buffeting test road". VERY surprisingly, at one point she was riding in the back and when I was hearing the booming from the front, she said she wasnt. We then swapped places, and sure enough, I wasn't hearing it back there. I heard the tire thwaks and felt the vehicle movement, but no boom! I'm not sure what to make of that so take it for what it is worth.

 

[dupeks]

I agree that the noise seems to be coming from the front (tires).
I had mention in one of my previous post that after I covered the rear wheel wells with butyl, both my wife (which has extremely good hearing) and I thought that is where the noise originates from.

This aligns with my experience -- after sound deadening the trunk and rear wheel wells, adding door seals, putting in trunk hatch vinyl tube, and adjusting stoppers it felt like most of the remaining noise was coming from the front.

Went back to add sound deadening on front wheel wells and it helped. There is still some road noise but it's softer and it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from -- it's relatively even throughout the body. There is still a little bit of boominess over rough surfaces, but no pressure/buffeting.

I'm considering adding a roof shade, which may possibly help with boominess (or not). I would imagine it may be better if the trunk was loaded or I added a parcel shelf. Will report back if I experience any of those.

 

[Myles.]

I agree that the noise seems to be coming from the front (tires).
I had mention in one of my previous post that after I covered the rear wheel wells with butyl, both my wife (which has extremely good hearing) and I thought that is where the noise originates from.

Are you saying that the rear wheel well butyl did *not* help with the deep resonate sounds, or that it did but some amount more of the noise you believe to becoming from the front wheels?

 

[dupeks]

Are you saying that the rear wheel well butyl did *not* help with the deep resonate sounds, or that it did but some amount more of the noise you believe to becoming from the front wheels?

The latter -- rear sound deadening (and doors, which I did at the same time) helped with deep resonant sounds but some still remained. Deadening the front wheel wells helped further and also cut road noise (noticeable to my family members, but haven't taken measurements yet).

Overall things are a *lot* quieter than when I started, and what remains is a bit of boominess which comes in over rough surfaces at low-ish speeds (20-30mph). Maybe that remaining boominess could be quieted down if I add a roof shade (reduce sound reflections), parcel shelf (isolate trunk further), or packed the trunk (absorb noise).

 

[Noflash]

I'm considering adding a roof shade, which may possibly help with boominess (or not). I would imagine it may be better if the trunk was loaded or I added a parcel shelf. Will report back if I experience any of those.

Roof shade did not help me.

Are you saying that the rear wheel well butyl did *not* help with the deep resonate sounds, or that it did but some amount more of the noise you believe to becoming from the front wheels?

Rear wheel well butyl and foam did not help me.

Anyone try the other RPM noise reduction products? Insulated skid plated, wind noise reduction kit...
Model Y Noise reduction kits

 

[plastus]

Roof shade did not help me.

Rear wheel well butyl and foam did not help me.

Anyone try the other RPM noise reduction products? Insulated skid plated, wind noise reduction kit...
Model Y Noise reduction kits

Roof shade had a minimal impact for me (slightly less reflection of sound). The door seal kit was absolute garbage from a quality and improvement standpoint. Aside from making the door feel a bit more solid closing, they did not improve sound whatsoever. The roof gasket/seal did help my car; a noticeable decrease in wind/whistling noise near the roof line.

 

[JonB65]

Roof shade did not help me.

Rear wheel well butyl and foam did not help me.

Anyone try the other RPM noise reduction products? Insulated skid plated, wind noise reduction kit...
Model Y Noise reduction kits

I added the RPM noise reduction and the wind noise reduction.

Additional seals around the doors may have helped a bit. But they definitely aren't totally sealing the area because I can see dirt behind the seal at the bottom of the door.

The rubber band around the glass probably has helped with wind noise.

My next thing is butyl on the front wheel wells once it warms up enough to mess around outside again.

I find my car to be nicely quiet and fortunately have not had any of the boominess issues. I'm just doing this as a fun project to see how quiet I can get the car.

 

[bigboi]

For me I’ve felt this weird pressure right after getting in the car prior to driving and I feel this buzz when sitting in the car while supercharging. Not sure if they’re all related. Not terrible but definitely irritating

 

[Myles.]

The latter -- rear sound deadening (and doors, which I did at the same time) helped with deep resonant sounds but some still remained. Deadening the front wheel wells helped further and also cut road noise (noticeable to my family members, but haven't taken measurements yet).

Overall things are a *lot* quieter than when I started, and what remains is a bit of boominess which comes in over rough surfaces at low-ish speeds (20-30mph). Maybe that remaining boominess could be quieted down if I add a roof shade (reduce sound reflections), parcel shelf (isolate trunk further), or packed the trunk (absorb noise).

That's good to hear, I'm onto the butyl next!

Lately I've taken to driving around with a 12lb. sound blanket in the under trunk compartment and using the parcel shelf. That combination is by far the most dramatic reduction I've gotten, like at least 80%. So if the butyl or front wheel well insulation chip in as much as it sounds like they do, that sounds likely to be a comprehensive elimination of all these low frequency sounds.

 

[ilovecoffee]

The latter -- rear sound deadening (and doors, which I did at the same time) helped with deep resonant sounds but some still remained. Deadening the front wheel wells helped further and also cut road noise (noticeable to my family members, but haven't taken measurements yet).

Overall things are a *lot* quieter than when I started, and what remains is a bit of boominess which comes in over rough surfaces at low-ish speeds (20-30mph). Maybe that remaining boominess could be quieted down if I add a roof shade (reduce sound reflections), parcel shelf (isolate trunk further), or packed the trunk (absorb noise).

Can you share some pics of where you put it on the front wheel wells?

Looking in the frunk, I couldn't find a place where they were exposed enough like they are in the rear.

 

[randomwalk101]

What's butyl? Like Dynamat stuffs? Is there a specific brand/product recommended? Thanks

 

[Noflash]

That's good to hear, I'm onto the butyl next!

Lately I've taken to driving around with a 12lb. sound blanket in the under trunk compartment and using the parcel shelf. That combination is by far the most dramatic reduction I've gotten, like at least 80%. So if the butyl or front wheel well insulation chip in as much as it sounds like they do, that sounds likely to be a comprehensive elimination of all these low frequency sounds.

Have a link to the "sound blanket"?