Ear pain/Pressure help

[PhotonMiles]

This works minimally if at all. I pulled back the panels that you are talking about and put sound deadening material there and to fill up the space and no noticeable difference. You have to be very careful, the side window airbags are there and you don’t want to stuff it too much where it would prevent operation. I think at this point the after market coil overs (which I have on order) is the solution, if it can absorb the harsh bumps, it won’t transfer to the car’s frame then to your spine and ears.

Did you line the headliner plastic itself with deadener like Dynamat/ResoNix or did you just put some lightweight closed-cell foam in the cavity? The headliner itself needs to be stopped from resonating.

There's already some foam back there which clearly isn't doing anything because it has no effect on frequencies so low. But perhaps some very dense material directly attached to the headliner plastic could have an effect.

 

[new-Instance]

I think with the dynamat type stuff you only need 25% coverage to meaningfully improve resonances. Do you think that would be possible?

Hard for me to say. I weighed a 19" x 19.5" piece of Noico butyl and it weighs 1.94lbs.

 

[new-Instance]

Did you line the headliner plastic itself with deadener like Dynamat/ResoNix or did you just put some lightweight closed-cell foam in the cavity? The headliner itself needs to be stopped from resonating.

There's already some foam back there which clearly isn't doing anything because it has no effect on frequencies so low. But perhaps some very dense material directly attached to the headliner plastic could have an effect.

I decided to try adding some butyl will a little bit of Norico foam on the back headliner part by the hatch. However, I did not add it to to the liner. I knocked on the frame with headliner partially unclipped and it was booming, so I applied to what I could. I didn't what to take the back rear quarters apart, so I just pulled down the liner, popped the 4 clips and made sure not to pull on the plastic liner to hard. The booming is still there, but the volume does seem to be reduced. Unfortunately, I don't have a good way to measure, like you do. I could probably reduce it more if I tear apart the back of the car, so I can get better access to the back part of the frame underneath the liner.

Also, the foam in the liner is not very dense at all, it feels like that cheap light airy thin foam. If I do end up taking the back part of the car apart, I'm definitely replacing that foam with some Noico red foam.

 

[busyatwork]

Allright, add me to the camp that had the spacers installed, with no effect.

The headliner info seems like a good lead, if only that it reliably reproduces the effect by "bumping" it.

Has anyone else found similar areas that reproduce the effect?

I'm also thinking of trading in my car for a model 3, if I can confirm that the M3 doesn't have the same issue. Has anyone heard of that?

With as many posts of model y ear pressure/buffeting as there are, and the reported videos in China, I'm competely surprised that there's no mention on popular websites (electrek, teslarati, insideevs, etc.).

 

[MyEarHurts]

Allright, add me to the camp that had the spacers installed, with no effect.

The headliner info seems like a good lead, if only that it reliably reproduces the effect by "bumping" it.

Has anyone else found similar areas that reproduce the effect?

I'm also thinking of trading in my car for a model 3, if I can confirm that the M3 doesn't have the same issue. Has anyone heard of that?

With as many posts of model y ear pressure/buffeting as there are, and the reported videos in China, I'm competely surprised that there's no mention on popular websites (electrek, teslarati, insideevs, etc.).

From what I've read, the Model 3 does not have this issue as it has an enclosed trunk.

I decided to try adding some butyl will a little bit of Norico foam on the back headliner part by the hatch. However, I did not add it to to the liner. I knocked on the frame with headliner partially unclipped and it was booming, so I applied to what I could. I didn't what to take the back rear quarters apart, so I just pulled down the liner, popped the 4 clips and made sure not to pull on the plastic liner to hard. The booming is still there, but the volume does seem to be reduced. Unfortunately, I don't have a good way to measure, like you do. I could probably reduce it more if I tear apart the back of the car, so I can get better access to the back part of the frame underneath the liner.

Also, the foam in the liner is not very dense at all, it feels like that cheap light airy thin foam. If I do end up taking the back part of the car apart, I'm definitely replacing that foam with some Noico red foam.

This would not work well as the plastic is not spreading resonance as much as metal, think tapping in your rear quarter panel. The "boom" noise comes from a lot of places to include the plastic on the ceiling, the felt liners on the quarter panels (i've added butyl and noico foam to both sides), the trunk liner (removed the trunk tray, lined that and the liner), under the trunk tray (if you tap the top with your finger you'll hear the boom, I lined that as well by hot gluing). It doesn't help much as mentioned before, it only happens when going over the slightest bumps which I think the whole frame of the car echo's it. I will however stuff the corners of the sealing with insulation to see if it will help with the wind noise. Keep up with the data points for future access.

Also be careful pulling the headliner (the part where the hatch bolts to), now mine won't go back in no because it's warped from pulling on it.

 

[dduffey]

I'm also thinking of trading in my car for a model 3, if I can confirm that the M3 doesn't have the same issue. Has anyone heard of that?

I have this problem on my Y, and not on my 3.

That said I added a noise seal kit for my 3 (including trunk) that did make road noise less but created the low frequency pressure. Still not as bad as the Y. But my stock 3 had no buffering issues.

 

[Stach]

I'm also thinking of trading in my car for a model 3, if I can confirm that the M3 doesn't have the same issue. Has anyone heard of that?

I had a Model 3 for over 1 year and while there was Lots of road noise, on anything but the smoothest roads, there was no boominess whatsoever. I was shocked on my drive home with the Model Y as I felt like I was inside a bass drum. Adjusting the hatch stops helped a lot for the buffeting boominess, but any little crack or bump in the pavement still causes a lot of boom! The Model 3 was definitely more fun to drive, but I'm 6'4" and the Model Y fits me much better and is more versatile with the hatch, but it comes at a very real price, Da Boom!

 

[gundarx]

I looked closely at the VW ID.4 at a mall, particularly with how they’re sealing the hatch. There is soft, flexible rubber on the body side. I believe a Tesla service solution in China in an earlier post had something similar but was much thinner.

I’ve done something similar to my Y which also has the rpmtesla noise reduction kit applied to the rear hatch (highly recommended for all those watching this thread closely). Not just for cabin boom but greatly reduces road noise, traffic noise, and wind. When driving over road texture on highways, it eliminates quite a bit of noise.

After rpmtesla kit, rear hatch boom improved and I thought it was perfectly sealed.

After inspecting my 2020 Y with notable panel gaps on the hatch against the body with a flashlight to check all the seals from the outside, there was still room for improvement from the taillight area and up, where the rpmtesla seals were in contact about just 60% of the length. The rear glass triangle area had no contact with the hatch seals and needed supplemental sealing. I had unused material from my Model 3 door seal kit (this is what I had but there’s probably a better alternative: https://amzn.to/3ucsx8n) and used some of the chunkier pieces so that it would meet with the rpmtesla rubber seals when the hatch closes. This added step made another notable improvement (30% better?) and I believe the buffeting/noise/boom issue purely from the rear hatch is essentially gone and the car feels great. Oh and closing the rear hatch is very quiet now and no longer violent. Have been testing this for over a week and think everyone here can benefit. I’ll take some pics of how this looks later today. Don’t lose your heads putting dampening material in that headliner

 

[busyatwork]

I looked closely at the VW ID.4 at a mall, particularly with how they’re sealing the hatch. There is soft, flexible rubber on the body side. I believe a Tesla service solution in China in an earlier post had something similar but was much thinner.

View attachment 658678View attachment 658679

I’ve done something similar to my Y which also has the rpmtesla noise reduction kit applied to the rear hatch (highly recommended for all those watching this thread closely). Not just for cabin boom but greatly reduces road noise, traffic noise, and wind. When driving over road texture on highways, it eliminates quite a bit of noise.

After rpmtesla kit, rear hatch boom improved and I thought it was perfectly sealed.

After inspecting my 2020 Y with notable panel gaps on the hatch against the body with a flashlight to check all the seals from the outside, there was still room for improvement from the taillight area and up, where the rpmtesla seals were in contact about just 60% of the length. The rear glass triangle area had no contact with the hatch seals and needed supplemental sealing. I had unused material from my Model 3 door seal kit (this is what I had but there’s probably a better alternative: https://amzn.to/3ucsx8n) and used some of the chunkier pieces so that it would meet with the rpmtesla rubber seals when the hatch closes. This added step made another notable improvement (30% better?) and I believe the buffeting/noise/boom issue purely from the rear hatch is essentially gone and the car feels great. Oh and closing the rear hatch is very quiet now and no longer violent. Have been testing this for over a week and think everyone here can benefit. I’ll take some pics of how this looks later today. Don’t lose your heads putting dampening material in that headliner

If so that would be amazing. I've been back and forth regarding trading in the y for a 3, but might just pony up for the sealing kits.

Thanks and I look forward to the pictures

 

[gundarx]

biggest unsealed gap on the rear triangle window after rpmtesla noise reduction kit:

also added supplemental piece to top of hatch to seal against wind, being careful not to overlap on glass portion, to not risk glass failure

hatch gaps have much-improved sealing

added additional longer section along top length of rear fender, to improve sealing against rpmtesla kit

(twin size wool blanket, about 4 lbs.; helps dampen noise from the back)

can see the rubber pieces on top of hatch and on side of fender meet for good seal

 

[yesman686]

biggest unsealed gap on the rear triangle window after rpmtesla noise reduction kit:
View attachment 658806

also added supplemental piece to top of hatch to seal against wind, being careful not to overlap on glass portion, to not risk glass failure
View attachment 658812
View attachment 658811

hatch gaps have much-improved sealing
View attachment 658810

added additional longer section along top length of rear fender, to improve sealing against rpmtesla kit
View attachment 658809
(twin size wool blanket, about 4 lbs.; helps dampen noise from the back)

View attachment 658808

can see the rubber pieces on top of hatch and on side of fender meet for good seal
View attachment 658807

i heard that you can try to lower a bit of air pressure in tires on MY, people said it help. im going to order the sealing kit. as you said the MY kit might not have enough length, should i order two?

 

[gundarx]

i heard that you can try to lower a bit of air pressure in tires on MY, people said it help. im going to order the sealing kit. as you said the MY kit might not have enough length, should i order two?

One kit is more than enough to cover the intended areas as per rpmtesla instructions, however to cover the hatch gaps, having a 2nd kit will do the job nicely; you’ll have lots of extra material

 

[PhotonMiles]

Alright everybody, time for fun with automated translations!

yesman686 posted two links to videos on Weibo, in Chinese, discussing the issue. Well I played a bit on the internet and managed to create some truly horrific translations from the Chinese audio into English text. See if you can parse ANYTHING useful from these And definitely enjoy a good laugh or two in the process

From the first link (weibo link #1)

Hello, everyone. Welcome to the Geographic Information Data Center. I am Dr. Zheng. Why is this number 07? Because when we were planning to shoot the first video, I was suddenly drawn into a car owners rights group outside the Tesla model. In this group, I will analyze the big problem they have encountered recently with all Tesla owners. The problem caused by the external resonance resonance of the Tesla model. This is a very uncommon problem. So everyone is indeed very powerful. Through their own methods, they have found that the sensation that causes their tinnitus is from the frequency of 31 Hz, which is the resonance frequency of 31 Hz. coming. Then let's analyze this matter from the principle. The noise is part of the narrow part of the road. The so-called narrow road is that we usually drive the road on the road. The road surface is rough. These rough particles are the roughness of the wheel. The power is transferred to the car through the price guarantee. Then this is called the road surface. Generally speaking, the car has to go through the test and development of three types of roads, including rough roads, Guanghua roads, cement roads, and roads, during the development process. In the course of these types of road tests, relatively high resonance predictions are generally found to find a way to solve this problem before going on the market. So from this point of view, if we want to optimize this structure, we need to optimize the stiffness of the suspension and at the same time can only optimize the stiffness of the tires and hubs. Then we have some car owners except for a solution that can alleviate this problem is to let go Part of the air reduces the tire pressure. This can indeed reduce the stiffness of the tires, but it will also cause other problems. So I do not particularly suggest that the current base may be further enlarged after entering the car body. The reason is that it comes from the body preparation parts. It is necessary to improve the restraint stiffness of each student’s spare parts, so the restraint stiffness I’m talking about is dynamic. When the car is running, it will have those small deformations and be very small. The width of the unit will not increase and form resonance. Amplify these noises. From this perspective How to increase the width of the tailgate has become a key point to solve the problem. Then we researched and found that its hinge is two very thin two hinges. Now one piece is like a piece, and there are only 3 to 4 places and the locks are also followed. There is no one that can be closed, so from the perspective of solving it is really rare, it should be significantly improved. Because the stiffness and balance force changes the formation, then the hinge stiffness should be increased in the number of positions and the height of the lock. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the hinge of the door to strengthen the hardness and thickness of the rubber block so that when the entire tailgate is covered, the overall rigidity is relatively high, reducing deformation and increasing its frequency, so that it can be further staggered. Then the third method is to install a segmentation in the repair like a Rolls-Royce Curry, which can greatly reduce the sound of the vibration inside the car, because it is blocked by the segmentation in the middle so that most of the sound can be There is only attenuation in the trunk, so this is also a method, but this method is currently only used by Rolls-Royce Curry. Then the last one is because resonance resonance is different for everyone. It is human-sensitive. Then take a look at our country now that the noise of the vehicle is large, how much is caused by the noise of the vehicle passing it. It has national regulations. If it fails, then this car cannot be listed. For the noise in the car, there are no specific regulations to limit the noise. Generally, when the OEM is developing, it will find a way to keep the noise in the car at the same level as competing products. I don’t know why. When the Tesla model was developed externally, it did not make its own noise at a relatively low level or the opposite level of quietness. I suspect that it may be tested on the Guanghua road in the United States and did not respond to the thicker road surface in China. Here I want to say that the cost and time saved in the development process will eventually become the confrontation of customers. It may have caused a lot of problems. So here may be a result that is not worth the loss, so I will gradually learn from the hope that Tesla will be included. All OEMs of momentum-building governance and traditional car-making are able to carry out localized development in addition to localized production in the development process, so that they can truly develop products suitable for the Chinese. Then go on to solve it. In this sensitive news, because some car owners may be more sensitive, he can perceive the depth of the two children, maybe he thinks it doesn’t matter if he can’t feel anything. For more serious car owners, let’s come up with the official solution. Before we can interpret it or bring headphones with active noise reduction to solve this problem, then we quietly wait for the official solution. So here I hope that if there are foreign car owners near Hangzhou, they can send a private message to me. We can work together to study how to change the stiffness of Kay and how to adjust it to solve this problem. Before Tesla's official solution, we can alleviate this problem and promote this method to car owners. If we want to completely solve this problem, we must further optimize the suspension stiffness to the stiffness to continue to run. Various roads are optimized and the rigidity of the shape position of the rubber shape of the hinge must be optimized. The whole tailgate needs to be calculated in a modal, so there is very little that can be done for the owner. For the car owner, we may continue to adjust the position of the rubber block to find some positions. Through some test instruments on my side, we can see where the bottom is to strengthen the rubber block or where to put a piece to plug it. It can also further improve the rigidity of the entire tailgate, which can reduce the 30 Hz market-making frequency. So this part of the owner can only say that it is to alleviate the inability to cure the root cause. In the end, it is necessary to optimize the suspension and the complete set process. It's a long time. I think that Tesla officials may go step by step. Some simple optimizations relative to our side can be enough to ease a little, and then the next step may be to carry out a comprehensive redesign and mold opening for us and then at the same time may transition Suspension and complete stiffness optimization can be completed in one to two years. According to this problem, it may take a few months to optimize for us to solve this problem, so everyone may have to be quiet. A specific solution to be officially released. So what I said at the end is that Dell is willing to vary from person to person at this time. If you are not saying that there are obviously 2 children in this car or driving this car. Some car owners are already obviously going to see a doctor. If not this In this case, I don’t recommend you to do this with Dell, and because Dell will also reduce tire pressure in the future, it will bring other problems. Some say you Dell may cause you to lose your perception of other car horns or other sounds. Not particularly good for driving. Then the driving belt is the same reason, so if you are not particularly serious, I suggest that we can try to alleviate this problem through an alternative plan we will do next and wait for the official solution proposed by Tesla. This solution can finally be completed to solve this problem perfectly. I think this is my opinion on the external resonance of the entire desert for the time being. Thank you for watching. This is the video of the Geographical Data Center. This is the video that is launched urgently. We hope to help car owners. We will launch the first official video in the near future. Welcome everyone to pay attention to. Hello everyone, and welcome to the first phase of the 5th phase of the report in the car through the gradual leasing meeting.

From the second link (weibo link #2)

Hello, everyone, welcome to the Geographic Information Data Center for why. Because before we did a second analysis of LF resonance outside the Tesla Model, including the above, there was a very warm response from a lot of car owners. Well, one of the owners was a car owner from Haining, who drove the car to our side today, first and then together we did an afternoon and one night analysis of the data. Well, first, let me say about this car, this car was produced in early March, and the car the owner was riding the day before, and so far, including counting from Haining, driving only 500 kilometers, the whole car is very, very new and no extra. Any installation then in this case we do some tests this afternoon to get some conclusions then these conclusions I think is for the owner outside this model should have a very big effect. Well, then, let me start with a conclusion. First of all, we can find out that I put this microphone in several locations in the car, one is the driver's seat, two microphones, and then the copilot's right ear microphone, and then the left and right ear in the rear row and look at the whole circle. We can all know that the noise is in two, and one is the total value of the entire band, one is the low frequency resonance, the peak of a single low-frequency resonance. If you look at the trend, the front row is smaller than the back row. In fact, look at the front row is to be smaller than the rear row only 65 dB back row is 66 so for a person his noise is in line with a normal SKP distribution, then this value is about what level it is. In many other cars that we've tested, this value is probably in 1 but a little above the medium level. So this is now this state, but external low frequency resonance, then we have to pay attention to the problem of low frequency. What is the situation of low frequency? In fact, the front row is bigger than the back, the low frequencies, and we have pulled the low frequency peaks out here, after we tested it, and we used to say it was 10 advance forces, that was the owner's test, and our special equipment measured is 30, 2 points, there will be a very obvious one. A peak, basically, is that this peak caused the feeling of low frequency 2, because there are more than 300 peaks in the future, that's what other cars might have, mainly these two peaks, that specific love, or put the results we've tested in. On this screen, you can see that there will be a very high peak in 13 and 30 years. So extract the noise values corresponding to this peak, you can see that it's actually the driver's seat's left and right ear are 50 decibels. Basically can be seen as almost a level, and the rear row of the left and right ear are basically 46 40 and I say 13 14 corresponds to that peak. Well, in this case, you can see the actual low frequency, then the front row is basically bigger than the rear row at 3 12. 4 Hz. 5 to 6 dB Well, this is actually quite obvious, so in the course of my own test drive, I will also find that there is really no sense of oppression in the back of the seated, but the front row is quite obvious, and then with the owner to confirm that he also thinks that it feels, and I drive for a little longer. A little later, I would think that there would be a little hidden pressure on this side of the temple with this slight pain, so this is because it's very low frequency, and we're going to go back to me and say, based on this situation, we did a couple of programs. And these are some suggestions from our owners group, or, according to a video I said, to improve stiffness. First of all, because the trunk cover will have a tailgate cover on top of it, and it's going to have four rubber supports. To adjust the tailgate closed or this state. So in order to confirm the role of these four rubber support, we first put the four boxes all rotation shortened to the above. Of course, before this, we also carried out a collection of the state of the circle, and then we can see that result, and I'll hit it on the screen so there is no difference between the original car and the original car, so we can't count so we're also rotating elongation. Four toward all the scene sequentially, what extent is it a little longer trunk cover through electronic we can't be in. Close up then in this case we tested found that there was almost no change to this place almost no change. So I don't think that rivers' would have to try, because I had already done a try on this car, and found it would not work. So the third solution is that some riers find that the lock down hit a few millimeters of deformation may have a role. His idea is that between the lock and the lock may have a boundary stone causing us to lack of stiffness. Well, after closing the lock down, it will become smaller and improve the stiffness, this is indeed a idea, but because this car is very appreciative of the owner, I don't want to say that the lock is smashed to everyone, so we'll change a way to put the lock thickened. A 3M called thickening family road if you add 3 layers will not keep up with us constantly picking up to pick up about a layer and a half when that layer and a half is able to automatically close the door so this time we go to the experiment will find it The frequency below does decrease, but at 3 points is not on both sides. He turned into two maniacs. He turned out to be like this now turns into two maniacs. In fact, his peak Buddha means almost nothing changed. In this case, I think this solution is questionable, because the subjective feeling may change a little bit, but it's not obvious, then this may be different for different cars, if you're willing to hit yourself a little down a few millimeters, and you're willing to go on. A little destructive attempt may work, but there is no guarantee that at least I'm thickening the buckle. There is no noticeable effect. So I think this is doubtful. So in the end there has been no solution for this. No. I still want to try it so what I said before is the effect is to block all the back, right, it should be effective. So I was surprised to find out that Tesla's trunk touched the outer trunk separator in two pieces, a back-to-back to the outside, which was the whole, his arc was particularly suitable for connecting between the trunk and the rear seat, so we raised the lid up to support it with something. Up and then use new cotton on both sides to fill the gap a little more because the cover can't completely cover the whole back row and then fill it all after I can let you put the picture above and then fill it all after you can see from the intuitive Small gaps outside it the whole effect should still be good. So we went to test in this state on the same road in the same state, and we were surprised to find that we could drop 5 dB in this state. That is, the product can drop 5 5. It's a very large value. We do not think that only 5:5 is a total of more than 50 also called decline. This results in the front and back row may have 1 or 2 back rows without shoots, so these 5 0.5 dB is actually basically like this. If you are not particularly sensitive should be nothing stressful. Of course, it's just a solution, so if some car pressure feels particularly obvious, then I think you can think of turning this probability up relatively fixed in the back and filling the sides up, or adding some other fill in this way, I say it's not clear. The clear clearance rate is too high enough to say that you can block it with some plastic panels, ah, and some things that can block the rapid flow of air, so at least it is effective in terms of my experiments. All of the above experiments are very clear about this car, and I don't guarantee that all cars will work, or all cars are in the same state as him, probably the lower frequency will be more obvious. The relationship then the whole result is as a reference is what it is. Scenario 1 2 is actually amplified may be no effect if some cars have stripes may have effect, then keep this state effective I think the most important program 3 some are to hit it down a few millimeters if you keep it I'm thickening alone, I think this effect is not very obvious without considering that scheme four that have been made is effective, I think it can be a try direction, at least one idea is that you pretend to be a Curry man's rear glass you put this hat outside or Half the bulkhead raised him and filled the filler. What filler did I use? Zhao Benshan, because I can see that I'm using some thicker new sponge, of course, if you can find something better and have a wide gap between the side of the seat and the trunk, then this gap is filled out from bottom to top, then I think. Should still have an effect. This is a test we have this afternoon today, and that next means that my plan is just to give a few more serious owners with a relief, and I always say my own mitigation plan because Tesla has to deal with the whole. The redesign of the redesign is to run all kinds of roads. Actually verify that the peak in the city of Skk can fall down in 30 years, so the final solution is still waiting for Tesla's official solution. Well, before this, I hope you still have to share my plan, so many pits don't have to step on again. And the second is to keep telling Tesla that he has this problem, because I see many Tesla's service centers from inside the group, and he doesn't know it's a problem, and I think it's going to keep reflecting because if I don't react, there's no guarantee of a car coming out of the back. It will not appear because the car has a very new time. Today is March 20. 8. Well, his car is from March 17, so be very careful. Above is the way to explain how the media reiki is in this video. So as I finally start the first issue of the official video, welcome you to continue to focus on the next few dozen models that we've measured, gradually, from a macro point of view. The good bad. Welcome to watch like attention and forward thank you.

 

[busyatwork]

One kit is more than enough to cover the intended areas as per rpmtesla instructions, however to cover the hatch gaps, having a 2nd kit will do the job nicely; you’ll have lots of extra material

Hey Gundarx, thanks for this contribution, my rpmtesla kit is on order and I'm eager to try this.

Looking at your prior posts, it seems like you also went thru significant effort with the noise deadening material. Which would you guess had the bigger impact; the sealing or the noise deadening addition?

Thanks again.

 

[gundarx]

Hey Gundarx, thanks for this contribution, my rpmtesla kit is on order and I'm eager to try this.

Looking at your prior posts, it seems like you also went thru significant effort with the noise deadening material. Which would you guess had the bigger impact; the sealing or the noise deadening addition?

Thanks again.

The rpmtesla noise reduction kit is easier to apply, cheaper and gives immediate results, especially when supplemented with the additional rubber seals on the rear hatch but mostly helps on road noise, wind noise, and eliminating the rear hatch buffeting and hatch movement (assuming the hatch adjustments are also done).

The noise deadening material (butyl and foam) are more for reducing the low-frequency booming on uneven road and the resonance from the car’s body and frame, especially from the rear (fenders, sub trunk, hatch) where there’s a significant portion of the car that uses thin sheetmetal and just resonates badly; and also reducing some external noise from entering the cabin. Doing this requires some disassembly and tiring effort with the roller and figuring out where and how much to apply, but if you’re desperate to reduce the booming and improve cabin comfort, definitely worth doing.

I should also mention I have the Mountainpass Comfort Adjustable Coilovers which have dramatically improved ride comfort, even on the 21” uberturbines, and overall car driving dynamics; while these have soaked up the bumps well, addressing the noise issues was still necessary for me. I don’t think there’s a more comfortable Model Y on 20 or 21” tires on the road than mine

 

[polyphonic54]

Alright everybody, time for fun with automated translations!

Thanks for translating It's hard to make much of sense of that, but I wonder what he means by "tinnitus." Does this affect people with tinnitus more than others, or is he calling the annoying sound "tinnitus"? I have moderate tinnitus myself and have been wondering how much that plays a role. Again, no issue with the EV sedans.

I translated the comments and he seems to attribute most of this to the hatch, which we know is only one part of the equation. Producing a proper SUV lift gate seems to be a Tesla-specific challenge, while at least a few other EV SUVs are still prone to the booms.

 

[DanDi58]

Thanks for translating It's hard to make much of sense of that, but I wonder what he means by "tinnitus." Does this affect people with tinnitus more than others, or is he calling the annoying sound "tinnitus"? I have moderate tinnitus myself and have been wondering how much that plays a role. Again, no issue with the EV sedans.

I translated the comments and he seems to attribute most of this to the hatch, which we know is only one part of the equation. Producing a proper SUV lift gate seems to be a Tesla-specific challenge, while at least a few other EV SUVs are still prone to the booms.

I have Meniere's Disease as well as some tinnitus. I don't have any of the issues described by various folks here.

 

[dduffey]

I am one of the lucky folks that can hear the "mosquito" sound around 18kHz, and I picked that up in our Model 3, confirmed by a frequency monitor (louder than tire/wind noise). Luckily it was easily solvable by removing the rear seat bench and sound proofing/absorbing the area. (High frequency sounds are "easier" to control/redirect). I can still hear it but it is less than road and wind sounds so it's just background noise.

I also feel the ear pressure from the boominess in the Y, not in my 3, but I have not recorded the frequency. I never knew I was sensitive to low frequencies until I picked up the Y. Adjusting the hatch per this thread (tugging a paper from the mount locations) helped but did not eliminate to the point of our 3.

I don't suffer from tinnitus or a hearing disorder (except my wife says that I have selective hearing and that I don't hear her).

 

[Mederm]

There is no ANC in the model Y

Thanks-- Im a MX owner so wasn't sure if they maybe added this feature to the MY

 

[Rippin1Gear]

Has anyone actually used like 3” wide tape and actually taped the entire hatch seams from the roof down, test drove to see if there would be any difference in the “boom” effect. Might be a little better/quicker route to try if anyone hasn’t yet.