Yeah, for the fronts I used someones recommended settings off Reddit/Youtube, 16/13 for the front and rear is 12/13. I will play around with it as I want a happy medium. I did notice more creaks and road/tire noise now that it's more quiet. The boom is still there but very minimally as the rear is absorbing the harsh bumps. Hope these shocks last awhile as they were pricey. I did notice when I had my rear seat down (just one of them) it was louder. If it would be possible, I'd consider putting sound deadening under the seat covers for the rear but I don't know how. I'll see how the suspension settles first.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
I wanted to share some pictures of my May 2021 build Model Y that I took while applying the butyl sheets and foam that @gundarx showed in the above post. Looks like there were some minor changes in this sub-trunk area. Hope it's helpful to anyone planning on applying the butyl sheets and foam. Next up is trying the wheel well applications when I can borrow a jack.
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After many trials and experimentation, I've found a fix for this problem. See: Easy and effective low frequency fix
Thanks for the update, I am unfortunatly selling the car as it's just too loud even with the fix. After driving other luxury ICE suv that have active noise cancellation and a panoramic cover, I'm going back to ICE until a more luxury all electric comes out. The biggest change that helped was coilovers but even then the boom is still there and wind/road noise.
It may be worth the couple of bucks for the PVC caps to eliminate the boom before making a final decision. You could just use a sheet of sand paper to make them a bit bigger inside so they'll fit over the rubber bumper. The same sheet of sandpaper will quickly shorten them to the right length. Just take some off until the hatch will close. 30 minutes and $5 may make you enjoy the car again. I tried the butyl, foam, bumper adjustment... all made some improvements. The $5 fix I posted about makes a profound difference.
Hi
I'm a little late to the discussion, but I bought a model Y about 6 weeks ago. My previous car was a model 3.
I still have the model 3 and for a few weeks I switched back and forth between the cars. About a month ago I started just driving the model Y. Around that same time I started getting pain in my left ear. I also have quite pronounced ringing in that ear. As a child I had ear Infections often, but I don't remember having them as an adult. (I'm in my 50's)
I started reading this thread an I'm stunned by it. It seems a really strange coincidence that the ear pain started at the same time as I started driving the model Y. I would like anyone who has this pain to comment on my symptoms to see if they are similar to their's. I do still think it is an infection and I am seeing a doctor shortly.
the pain started a few weeks ago and has been constant since. I have driven the car almost daily, but sometimes with a day or two break. Because of my job there have been several days that I have spent literally 14 hours in the car, getting out occasionally, AC running sometimes. I didn't notice any worsening of my symptoms. My ear is slightly tender. I also get clicking sounds in that ear
I'm going to drive the model 3 for a few weeks and see what happens
I'm a little late to the discussion, but I bought a model Y about 6 weeks ago. My previous car was a model 3.
I still have the model 3 and for a few weeks I switched back and forth between the cars. About a month ago I started just driving the model Y. Around that same time I started getting pain in my left ear. I also have quite pronounced ringing in that ear. As a child I had ear Infections often, but I don't remember having them as an adult. (I'm in my 50's)
I started reading this thread an I'm stunned by it. It seems a really strange coincidence that the ear pain started at the same time as I started driving the model Y. I would like anyone who has this pain to comment on my symptoms to see if they are similar to their's. I do still think it is an infection and I am seeing a doctor shortly.
the pain started a few weeks ago and has been constant since. I have driven the car almost daily, but sometimes with a day or two break. Because of my job there have been several days that I have spent literally 14 hours in the car, getting out occasionally, AC running sometimes. I didn't notice any worsening of my symptoms. My ear is slightly tender. I also get clicking sounds in that ear
I'm going to drive the model 3 for a few weeks and see what happens
If you have an Android phone, could you download Spectroid (it's free) and share a screenshot from your M3 and MY on the same highway? It would be interesting to see if your MY has the same issue mine had.
If your hatch bumpers aren't adjusted right, you'll have a very low frequency buffeting that can't be healthy. That takes 5 minutes and no money to fix. Some don't seem to hear (sense maybe) the buffeting - I found it nearly unbearable. I fixed that the second day I had the car. If I couldn't fix it right away, I would have returned the car.
I read your linked post and have to admit that it wasn’t clear to me in the end what you did.
Seems like you extended the adjustable bumpers further than their maximum extension would otherwise permit?
If so, that’s interesting because other advice has been to extend them only to the point that they make a tight seal and no further (the envelope test).
My rigid stops are shorter than my original ones were set to. The problem is that the original ones are too soft. The PVC caps I added have the original rubber piece, set to the lowest height, inside. The caps sit on the original ridged plastic hex collar to form a solid plastic piece between the hatch and the landing pad.
Since they have no give, you have to make them just the right length - a hair longer than touching when the hatch is closed. There is some give in the hatch that still allows it to latch every time.
It may be easier to find the correct length by setting the stops to their lowest height and using a ball of playdoh or clay on the landing pad.
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Inspired by @MY-Y, I used epoxy putty to create a rigid cap over the stop. First, measure the length of the stop, then turn the stop all the way in. Add epoxy putty over the stop to create a cap and make the whole length a bit longer than the original length. Put a non-sticky paper on the putty cap and close the hatch. Open the hatch and check the putty cap to make sure it's compressed a bit (pic 1), then close the hatch. After some time when the putty is supposed to become hard, open the hatch, remove the non-sticky paper, and add a layer of 1mm butyl-aluminum tape on the cap (pic 2) to ensure tight contact with a bit of flexibility. The final step is to paint the cap black.
The booming sound seemed to be lower than before. Spectroid shows that the peak is now 47Hz instead of 3xHz.
(My other soundproofing works:
- Two months ago, I installed soundproofing materials inside of the trunk, especially the bucket.
- Two weeks ago, I added soundproofing around the outside of the rear wheel wells, without removing the wheels. It was a bit awkward with the wheels there, but it was doable.
Both works seemed to reduce road noise but not the booming.)
The booming sound seemed to be lower than before. Spectroid shows that the peak is now 47Hz instead of 3xHz.
(My other soundproofing works:
- Two months ago, I installed soundproofing materials inside of the trunk, especially the bucket.
- Two weeks ago, I added soundproofing around the outside of the rear wheel wells, without removing the wheels. It was a bit awkward with the wheels there, but it was doable.
Both works seemed to reduce road noise but not the booming.)
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Do you have any pictures of the wheel well project? I'm going to tackle both the remaining three wheel wells (I did the front passenger) and the inside bucket/hatch area in September. How much of a road noise reduction did you end up with? I don't have any noise issues, but just love this project and making my car even more quiet than it already is.
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. It's pretty much like Ear pain/Pressure help except that the wheel blocks some sight (but the whole well is still accessible). I also put more butyl almost covering the whole surface. I'm not sure about the amount noise reduction because I'm really not very good at evaluating my subjective perception and I didn't measure the noise level. Perhaps the satisfaction of finishing a project made the driving more enjoyable
.Thanks! I'm right there with you on the evaluation. ;-) I do have the sound frequency app on my Android so I will make some measurements. Hoping to do the rear passenger wheel well this weekend. That's where I can here the motor whining sometimes.Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. It's pretty much like Ear pain/Pressure help except that the wheel blocks some sight (but the whole well is still accessible). I also put more butyl almost covering the whole surface. I'm not sure about the amount noise reduction because I'm really not very good at evaluating my subjective perception and I didn't measure the noise level. Perhaps the satisfaction of finishing a project made the driving more enjoyable
I'm glad this is working for you. One thing to consider. The PVC caps I used (and painted flat black) looks OEM.
I was just driving this morning thinking how much more I enjoy my car after this quick fix.
2021 Model Y (May build). It seems some have a minor issue here others are more serious. Mine was the later. After multiple sessions adjusting bumpers, i took some additional corrective actions today which had positive results.
1.) I adjusted the top hinge to be slightly lower then the roof glass, but most importantly even between the 2 sides. From the factory it was 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch different. One was quite low and one was quite high. This led the lid to be not aligned side to side by the time it got to the bottom.
2.) I added little felt pads to the trim side of the bumper. This raised the pad up a 1/4 inch which give added rigidity to the bumper. Less rubber bumper exposed outside of the plastic collar. The collar gives it strength.
3.) At the advice of the SC, I moved the striker down a bit. I had to remove the lower trim, loosen the 2 torx screws and tap on the striker until it moved 3-4mm.
4.) Completed the bumper adjustment again as seen in the video. Start with the uppers move to the lowers. Check the uppers again once you do the lowers. If you put too much pressure on the lower, the upper will gap again, and IMO the uppers are more important.
Now the gap is perfectly aligned and its MUCH closer together. When i push on the decklid or "thump" it with my had it moves only a fraction of a MM vs multiple MMs previously. Its not as rock solid as my BMW with a very similar design, but vastly improved.
1.) I adjusted the top hinge to be slightly lower then the roof glass, but most importantly even between the 2 sides. From the factory it was 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch different. One was quite low and one was quite high. This led the lid to be not aligned side to side by the time it got to the bottom.
2.) I added little felt pads to the trim side of the bumper. This raised the pad up a 1/4 inch which give added rigidity to the bumper. Less rubber bumper exposed outside of the plastic collar. The collar gives it strength.
3.) At the advice of the SC, I moved the striker down a bit. I had to remove the lower trim, loosen the 2 torx screws and tap on the striker until it moved 3-4mm.
4.) Completed the bumper adjustment again as seen in the video. Start with the uppers move to the lowers. Check the uppers again once you do the lowers. If you put too much pressure on the lower, the upper will gap again, and IMO the uppers are more important.
Now the gap is perfectly aligned and its MUCH closer together. When i push on the decklid or "thump" it with my had it moves only a fraction of a MM vs multiple MMs previously. Its not as rock solid as my BMW with a very similar design, but vastly improved.
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thanks for the post! few questions.
1. did you have the ear pressure/buffetting issues like everyone else? did these fixes resolve the issues?
2. what did you use to adjust the bumpers on the hatch? single sheet of paper? envelope? How tight did you make the fit? to the point where you couldnt remove the sheet at ALL? or remove with some resistance
3. when you say tap on the striker, are you talking about tapping down onto the top of the striker (the horizontal bar part) so that it is a tighter fit into the car? or are you saying tapping on the back of the striker (the vertical bar part) so that the striker slides towards the front of the car?
