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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
Just came back from an extended drive after turning the hatch stops out another half turn yesterday. I had adjusted them a couple months ago using the envelope method and all was fine. Now I swear I hear very little to no booming.
To the point where I was actually considering not going down the tubing route.
But, I can't help myself, so I'll report back later today after I put in the 3/16" tubing.
To the point where I was actually considering not going down the tubing route.
But, I can't help myself, so I'll report back later today after I put in the 3/16" tubing.
ilovecoffee
Member
I honestly don't think you'll have much of an effect with 0.1875" OD, considering I did 3/8 which is 0.375" (although on the largest side), 5/16 (0.3125") should offer some reprieve but still some rigidity. I know 3/8" was too large for you. But 5/16" might be good enough of a step down.
If the tube is just floating around in there because it's too small, I'm not sure it will help much with reducing the movement of the hatch against the seal.
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ilovecoffee
Member
With this solution, it won't ever sound "pop-less" like most of them do from delivery. It's the nature of the beast with trying to reduce movement of the hatch. But I've tried all sorts of methods even where the trunk literally POPS open like a shaken cola bottle. But now mine is more subtle (more of a boop than a pop LOL), and I think has gotten even more subdued after a 1000km of driving.
Update: I have the 5/16" tubing in. That silicone spray is the key to easy installation! I have a pop, but no longer a POP! I feel a bit better about that, thinking long term for the car. It should settle even more over time.
I adjusted the hatch stops out and used the envelope test. (I actually used the 3x5 card test.)
Test drive revealed...hard to say. I'll have to drive more. Using the DecibelX app on my Pixel phone showed a peak at 43.8 Hz. I'll drive more and report back after a few more days.
Question: I measured the length of my adjusted hatch stops in preparation for the 3D printed stops. My measurements are 30mm for the driver's side and 33mm for the passenger's side. How do I translate these into the the correct stops to print, which have lengths from 7mm to 10mm?
Thanks again for all the advice!
I adjusted the hatch stops out and used the envelope test. (I actually used the 3x5 card test.)
Test drive revealed...hard to say. I'll have to drive more. Using the DecibelX app on my Pixel phone showed a peak at 43.8 Hz. I'll drive more and report back after a few more days.
Question: I measured the length of my adjusted hatch stops in preparation for the 3D printed stops. My measurements are 30mm for the driver's side and 33mm for the passenger's side. How do I translate these into the the correct stops to print, which have lengths from 7mm to 10mm?
Thanks again for all the advice!
After all my troubles I am set to trade in my 2018 RWD 3 for a 2022 Awd 3. I am nervous given issues we had with the Y. I went in and the new 3 had gotten delayed in transit so I asked if they had a 7 seat model y to look at. They had a brand new one because the prior loaner crashed yesterday. They said had the double pain glass. I drove and didn't feel the boom or road noise as much. I still had ear/head pain half way through drive. I am not sure if it's psychosomatic but have been feeling crummy for last 2 hours since. So odd.
ilovecoffee
Member
You'll always have low frequency noise but I guess the point is to limit the peaks over bumps.
You should measure the height of the rubber off the plastic nut. That's how I separated them. Since you don't have your own printer and you want to get it right the first time, I recommend just printing a couple sizes up and then sanding it down afterwards to fit (sanding it on the rubber-end).
ilovecoffee
Member
Well I notice the boom but yes, I remember early on while I was still playing around with the hatch stops I had it so bad that I had brain fog and a headache for almost the rest of the day. It's a very bizarre thing. I can't say I've ever experienced it from anything else in my life.
That being said there are a few simple solutions here (hatch stop modifications and tubing in the gasket) and more expensive or complicated ones (sound deadening and coilovers) that can mostly resolve anything.
I think I get it now. Just went and measured, and for the first time realized the plastic nut will turn on the rubber to go back up tight against the hatch. After doing that, I am left with rubber extending 10mm on the driver's side and 11mm on the passenger's side. I'll take another drive tomorrow to see how moving the plastic nut up tighter has changed things.
I'm tempted to submit my job for printing two 10mm stops to the library now. They could be printed and ready for pickup tomorrow when I go to TinkerCAD class there.
That's exactly what I used and it worked really well. No effect on the seals or tubing, as it's meant to lubricate rubber seals (among other things).
added a 2-3lb weight to the hatch (removed plastic panel) and added thick foam blocks in the crevices, no improvement. The weight that I used was in my previous luxury suv hatch from the factory which is what they use to reduce vibrations/sound. I'm starting to think that the boominess vibration is where the two pivot points are up top, if that's the case there is no fixing that, I've removed that plastic roof piece and added one layer of butyl and that plastic trim piece is very easy to warp. I may remove that weight piece (it has bolt holes) and bolt it to one of the bump stop points behind one of the wheel panels to see if it absorbs any boom from the bumps.
ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah I don't think much comes from within the hatch door itself. The hatch moving against the seal, yes. As we all know, is a major contributing factor. I can't say any sound deadening I added to the hatch door itself did anything.
As far as the other areas, I think most low-frequency noises tend to be generated by suspension and tires.
But you've looked into all that, same like me, including MPP coilovers.
So I'm confused, did you get another Y? I thought you sold yours.
after-dark
Member
thought this would be a good place to share.
MIC model Y have this block installed on both sides of the hatch to prevent sounds from resonating.
the rubber seal also looks a bit different; more solid and flatter design.
MIC model Y have this block installed on both sides of the hatch to prevent sounds from resonating.
the rubber seal also looks a bit different; more solid and flatter design.
ilovecoffee
Member
Yep that was posted quite a few pages back I can't remember where. I 3D printed a replica in TPU, didn't really seem to accomplish anything.
You're right about the seal, or at least the angle of that picture, but it does look different slightly. I guess it comes from a different supplier so might be different slightly. I've heard from others though that this noise is still a problem on MIC Model Ys: I don't speak Mandarin so I don't understand,
after-dark
Member
they're basically outlining 4 ways to reduce NVH in the cabin. the first 3 are negligible/subjective differences, the 4th / most promising one is flipping up the rear cargo cover and propping it up against the rear seats, completely blocking your own rear view
. that was a 5.5dbA reduction in their test vehicleSide note, I got around to installing a 5/16" tube in the gasket last week, and I'd say it has reduced my 'boominess' by about 50%; only drove it a few times after but I think it's fine now and not that noticeable
after-dark
Member
watched it again, the first 3 approaches in the video:
#1 was fully retracting the hatch stoppers
#2 was fully extending the hatch stoppers
both of these resulted in negligible differences for them ...thats surprising
#3 is adding 1.5 layers of tape to the trunk latch; this changed the wavelength of the noise frequency and could result in a subjectively better sound. the idea is that it would reduce the amount of play in the latch when closed.
going to give #3 a shot.
#1 was fully retracting the hatch stoppers
#2 was fully extending the hatch stoppers
both of these resulted in negligible differences for them ...thats surprising
#3 is adding 1.5 layers of tape to the trunk latch; this changed the wavelength of the noise frequency and could result in a subjectively better sound. the idea is that it would reduce the amount of play in the latch when closed.
going to give #3 a shot.
So I had to take one of the hatch stops off into the hardware store to see which size pvc cap to get, while I had it off I said screw it and just removed both to see if it would do anything but it seemed to make the booming a little louder. I was hoping all the weight of the hatch be on the bottom two rubbers so it would require more force during a bump to cause the noise but nope.
Ironically I recall having to move something heavy a long time ago, I think a bunch of landscaping bricks. But that definitely quieted it down which leads me to believe it's the stiff suspension and transmitting through the frame (If that's the case we can't do anything about it because the frame is pretty solid so no matter how much butyl the difference will be negligible).
Ironically I recall having to move something heavy a long time ago, I think a bunch of landscaping bricks. But that definitely quieted it down which leads me to believe it's the stiff suspension and transmitting through the frame (If that's the case we can't do anything about it because the frame is pretty solid so no matter how much butyl the difference will be negligible).
